Crusty corroded brake pipes

[alanaslan]

Originally Posted by Odd Job

That's the bit that concerns me!

Can they be re-routed?

You don’t need to drop the tank if you use copper pipe it will feed through with the tank in place.
If you intend dropping the fuel tank, be prepared to replace the retaining strap as it will snap, rubbish thin metal and a plastic tank.
For all the rest of the pipes I would recommend copper zinc alloy pipe 90/10 it lasts much longer than copper or steel.
As to the cost the hoses will set you back between £45 and £80 depending on the quality used. You will need a couple of rolls of brake pipe £20 and a handful of pipe ends £8 in steel or £25 if using brass.
Then it is up to you if you change them yourself or let the garage do it. If you are doing it your self you will need a pressure bleeder to get a nice firm pedal.
Hope this helps
Alan


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Odd Job]

Where can i buy a new tank strap from anyone please?

[Dawn]

Rimmers, Ebay, or maybe DMGRS? Not sure if they stock them.

[marinabrian]

None of the tanks straps I've had snap, but I don't live in Scotland where the roads are salted 11 months of the year

Anyway XPart's parent company is selling them on eBay LINK should you need one ;0

Brian

[Odd Job]

Thanks for the link, I'm a little surprised how much it is!

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Odd Job

Thanks for the link, I'm a little surprised how much it is!

I shouldn't imagine you will need to buy one Richard, last year I replaced seven sets of front to rear pipes, all done properly and routed in the exact same position as they were originally fitted, and had no issues with the tank straps

It's very easy to do it properly, even more so than doing half a job, and considerably neater too

The main advice is to run the fuel down in the tank, until at least you get the orange light on, it makes refitting it much easier when you are lying underneath the car, the other piece of advice is to open the bleed nipple to the NSR attach a pipe into a jar, then push the pedal to the floor.

Once you've done that, wedge the brake pedal to the floor, I use a piece of wood wedged between the pedal and the front of the drivers seat, with a folded over towel or similar to protect the seat, and you will find there will be minimal fluid loss while you have the pipework disconnected.

Have fun

Brian

[Odd Job]

Thanks Brian,

When I've done brake pipes on cars in the past I usually use the bit of wood on the brake pedal technique, as you say, loose less fluid and helps prevent air getting into the system and causing other issues.
I read a post on here a while ago with issues on the ABS pump after work had been carried out on the hydraulic system.

[ZedTeeTee]

Originally Posted by Fusilier

Chris

Yes Mate, need doing, as car is now 16 years old, and the MGF and the XKR live in the Man Cave with underfloor carpets and covers on them

Maybe you have not yet seen the XKR

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...58&postcount=1

Stu

Very nice Stu

[johnnyb44]

Hi gain.
I thought i would give a quick update on events regarding my crusty brake pipes.
I took the car in this morning to get them replaced. The local garage are decent, and got them sorted out for £189..He showed me the old one's and they weren't a pretty picture. In fact as he was taking on off it disintegrate.. They were pretty close to failure whilst on the road by all accounts..
Whilst he had everything apart i also asked if he could clean up the rear callipers as one of them is slightly sticking. Its not to point where its dragging the car back but enough to be getting hot.
Unfortunately he couldn't free it and has suggested i replace them both. One for being border line seized whilst the other suffering a snapped bleed nipple that he did today. There only about £ 35/45 each so its probably prudent to do both as the car is a long term keeper.
Bearing in mind its 20 years old now and has seen a lot of bad weather over the years i can't complain.
I know people with cars less than half the age of mine and there plagued with expensive problems and look as rough as badgers behind.
It just goes to show how strong these cars really are with a little tlc compared to the modern offerings we have nowadays.
All the very best,
Johnny

[Blink]

Bigg Red do decent caliper refurbishment kits (pistons, seals, guide pins, etc) - http://www.biggred.co.uk/