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30th December 2020, 18:43 | #11 |
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Chop the rusty part of the protruding threaded part of the bolt flush with the hub using a hacksaw or angle grinder with a thin disc to prevent the rusted thread picking up on the hub threads, then wind it out.
As it is moving along it's entire length, as opposed to the usual where the bolt shears at the wasted point where it is exposed within the slot, and the threaded part is seized into the hub, it will come out. You've done the hard part in getting it moving already, the rest is a cinch Brian |
30th December 2020, 19:02 | #12 |
SERVICING AND DEALER DIAGNOSTICS
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What heat are you using ? for the DIYer map gas is probably the best.
Mick
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] T4 Owner Jobs done : new UBP, Spy hole mod, Rear hub(wheel bearing),plenum cleaned and emptied, Inline thermostat fitted,Full service, In car Digital tv/DVD Bluetooth Satnav etc, Replaced UBP, Restored headlights,Fixed airbag connection.replaced HP pump,replaced rear light seals,changed intercooler O rings. Jobs to do: ,replace drivers lock,.[/SIZE] |
30th December 2020, 19:15 | #13 |
I really should get out more.......
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If you have the time order one of these
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/15387875729...hoCy1sQAvD_BwE It is worth every penny and is truly amazing what will move once it has had 10 mins to do its thing. I have used it on exhaust bolts that looked like they would never move. You need to shake it before you spray and once you hear the balls rattle give it a squirt. |
30th December 2020, 19:55 | #14 |
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Are you sure you can shake it hard enough for the balls to rattle?
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30th December 2020, 21:50 | #15 | |
same car since 2005
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Quote:
Have a look at the link in post 2
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Who said it was simples ? |
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31st December 2020, 07:48 | #16 |
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My apologies. My old brain was remembering the nut and bolt for the lower ball joint.
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31st December 2020, 13:14 | #17 |
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I'm with Brian on the hack sawing bit.--Having done that on several occasions over the years.
I use the handle type that you slide the blade into. This way you can more easily cut the rusted part off.---You don't have the problem you get with a standard hack saw needing to dodge various things with the body of the hack saw. |
31st December 2020, 14:25 | #18 |
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Ebay No 272238107403
I have a couple of similar, one straight and one pistol grip. And you can always snap the hacksaw blade short before starting. Requires patience in use and keeping the pressure down, let the blade do the work. Shorter blade resists bending. Good luck. Johnny BG Last edited by JohnnyBG; 31st December 2020 at 14:25.. Reason: add info |
31st December 2020, 15:33 | #19 |
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31st December 2020, 15:48 | #20 |
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The bolt is out! First I used a wire brush in an angle grinder on the thread protruding from the hub. It was around 0C outside. I tried the bar on the bolt but it would not move in either direction. I applied heat then penetrating oil then more heat then the bar again. It moved tightly in both directions and eventually it went beyond the 80 degrees I achieved yesterday. After half an hour of moving it in both directions it felt slack enough to keep going anticlockwise and out it came. I don't think the protruding thread or the concealed thread was the problem. The shank is corroded along one side. I think the corroded side was at the bottom. Maybe water gets in through the slit in the hub and the bolt shank sits in this water. There was little or no penetrating oil on the shank. Thanks for all your suggestions. Next stage, trying to get the strut out of the hub.
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