Front seat Torque headed bolts

[Martin Butler]

Hi, just hit a problem, I'm changing my handbrake compensator this week end, and the rear two torque bolts on the passenger seat won't budge, the front two came out all right, but the t 50 wont bite to turn them, are the torque sizes the same for both front and rear either that or they got ruined by someone before me over torqueing them, if i can't get them to move, any ideas? i looked at the t50 bit, and it appears to not be damaged but it was a cheap set.

[KWIL]

You can change the compensator without removing the seats. There is a "How to" somewhere.

[roverbarmy]

Originally Posted by KWIL

You can change the compensator without removing the seats. There is a "How to" somewhere.

Here you go:-
https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s....php?p=1360646

[macafee2]

I would expect the bolts to be the same front and rear, driver and passenger but there are at least 3 different "splines", not all are t50.

There are a few threads discussing the bolts and the "sizes, splines" will be on one of them.

macafee2

[suzublu]

Torx 50, Ribe 8, torx 50+ and the bolt from my car. Torx +50 was the one which fitted best

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by KWIL

You can change the compensator without removing the seats. There is a "How to" somewhere.

There is a --HOW-TO---section on the forum. The help will be listed in there.--Try the --Search-- feature at the top of the page.

[Arctic]

[QUOTE]

Originally Posted by KWIL

You can change the compensator without removing the seats. There is a "How to" somewhere.[/QUOTE

]

HI Ken.
It depends on which compensator Martin is trying or going to fit, if it's a R53 or and SSC or welded original.

If R53 then it's best to remove the passenger seat it will help as the whole cable and compensator need to be removed.

The other method for SSC or welded mod it can be done with out the seat removal, the link as already been post above as to how to do it.

[Martin Butler]

[QUOTE=Arctic;2911757]

]

HI Ken.
It depends on which compensator Martin is trying or going to fit, if it's a R53 or and SSC or welded original.

If R53 then it's best to remove the passenger seat it will help as the whole cable and compensator need to be removed.

The other method for SSC or welded mod it can be done with out the seat removal, the link as already been post above as to how to do it.

its the R53 CABLE and it's been a pig, ive got the old compensator out, but can't seem to be able to see how to remove the old cable, there is a tag somewhere but i can't see it, so i'm now going to have to somehow find it to bend it down so i can get the cable out, or put the old one back, until the torxplus bit arrives so i can remove the seat because now i have no handbrake

[Arctic]

[

QUOTE=Martin Butler;2911807]

Hi Martin.
Quite hard with the seat in to be honest, i stopped doing them with the seat in situ, as it took more time faffing about trying to get the cable out, it was quicker removing the passenger seat, not that hard to push the tag over once you located it.

Torch helps and a small pry bar to lift the console a little.
1

Then you need to either lift or lower the hand brake so you see the tag.
2

hopefully you can make out the tag in the photos below.
3

4

Even then you will struggle to get the cable out from the rear as it get trapped in the channel.

I had to remove it from the front.
5

[Martin Butler]

I Ended up putting the old equalizer back on and adjusting everything up so that i have a working handbrake, it now holds the car on 3 clicks, and i'm going to do the change later after i've got it through the MOT, which is due in January i'm leaving the carpet up on the rear for time being to dry it and the floor out