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Old 28th January 2016, 14:54   #11
sitch76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastPete View Post
Hi Bruno
Not sure if it is my computer, but I cannot see the photo or get it to open when I click on it. I do not particularly like Photo bucket, so I often post photos as attachments simply by going into My documents folder - then to my pictures, and selecting the photo I want to show. The only issue with this is that you may need to resize the picture to 800 x 600 or so, otherwise it may be too big to be attached to the message. I think most computers have some basic photo editing software on them to allow you to do this (I actually have PhotoStudio installed on my computer that will do the re-sizing for me).

Thanks

Pete
I think it was linked wrongly but hope the OP doesn't mind, I found it on his album:

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Old 28th January 2016, 20:39   #12
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It's certainly something I'll need to do soon - I was thankful mine seems OK, until Mother dearest pointed out her blowers were only luke-warm whereas mine were toasty.

Just what I wanted to do in January...
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Old 28th January 2016, 22:47   #13
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Originally Posted by EastPete View Post
Thanks Stewmond - very useful.

I hope you manage to get a picture or two posted showing where to cut the hoses - info on the size/source of the hose connectors you used would also be useful.

Cheers

Pete
Hi Pete, I can see you've got the photo. Don't really know why it wasn't there after the first upload. I used an inline connector from B&Q. They were 3/4 inch but I had to file them down to fit, so I removed the ribs. always heat up the pipes in a jug of hot water first before pushing the connectors in. It makes it much easier. with the B&Q connectors being too large as standard I have sourced one at 18mm which is just over 0.7 inch which I think will be better. That is from MAFCO - straight hose connector 18mm, part number 455-7091. If you've an Andrew Page in your locality then they are distributors for Mafco. If not, give the m a ring on 01254301121, give them your postcode and the will tell you your nearest supplier. I've added the following photos:-








Hope this all helps. Its my first attempt

Cheers

Bruno
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Old 28th January 2016, 23:07   #14
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Default Flushing Cooling Systems.

Anyone wanting a clean and efficient cooling system following CHG damage and coolant-oil mix or even recent purchase of an "unknown quantity" used car with poor heating cooling .... Here's what I do and have done with real improvement every time..

( X-Posted from .org thread. )


Quote:
Originally Posted by coalman View Post

The clean up seems to take longer than the repair.

Cheers Gnu,will get affected parts steamed off tomorrow and run a flush when re assembled to get any "nasties" out of the cooling system.
I have highlighted this as that is very important comment and nails it spot on! It does take much time but, needs to be done to ensure a good repair. Far too many whip off the cylinder head and bung on a new gasket. There's more to it than that to ensure the job is done well. It's not Rocket Science but does mean more time for the better job.

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Originally Posted by Furryroo View Post
best method i found is to pop a dishwasher tablet in the coolant bottle, hell i even stuck a calgon limescale one in there too lol run it about for 100 miles ish with just water and dishwasher tablet, then drop the coolant and all should come out!
I use a similar technique with SPEEDFlush. :~



I do not follow the instructions "on the tin". That recommends running engine at fast idle for a period then drain and flush. I prefer to put it in the cooling system with water, not Anti-freeze ( I usually do this in warmer months ) and run the car for a few days say 30-50 miles. Then drain and use a garden hose to flush out any remnants lurking in the cooling system. It is effective stuff. Then add 50-50 OAT Coolant and water to the cleaned out system. The muck that process can clear out is surprising.





So that this:~



and these :~



Look at what was lurking in that radiator.



I was told that radiator was so badly blocked it could not be recovered. It was.

Then the garden hose treatment ~ only water should now be in the clean system :~







Can become this :~



and this :~



Yes, thoroughness like that takes time but, pays dividends in making a car so much a nicer place to be and far less prone to have further problems. Plus, you can check the all important coolant level with a speedy glance as soon as you lift the bonnet.
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Old 28th January 2016, 23:07   #15
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Nice useful thread, well done
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Old 29th January 2016, 08:55   #16
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I say just use waterless coolant!!! One of my cars has it in it, the coolant system is spotless,no corrosion at all.
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Old 29th January 2016, 12:30   #17
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Stewmond,
Having suffered the misfortune of someone adding K-Seal to my car in the past I have already changed the matrix once (3 years ago) but it is now cold again on the passenger side so this mod will be useful for me. Can you tell me which is the outlet pipe (I'm not near my car to look). Is it the top or bottom hose as they disappear into the bulkhead?

thanks,
Steve.
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Old 30th January 2016, 22:47   #18
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Quote:
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Stewmond,
Having suffered the misfortune of someone adding K-Seal to my car in the past I have already changed the matrix once (3 years ago) but it is now cold again on the passenger side so this mod will be useful for me. Can you tell me which is the outlet pipe (I'm not near my car to look). Is it the top or bottom hose as they disappear into the bulkhead?

thanks,
Steve.
Hi Steve, the outlet pipe is the top pipe coming out of the bulkhead. If your heater matrix is blocked as you say, it will be cool to the touch, whereas the inlet pipe will be hot at normal running temperature. Just a note to everyone, re-tighten the jubilee clips the following morning before starting the engine. I was surprised how loose mine were after cooling down. Good luck everyone and happy motoring.

Cheers,

Bruno
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Old 14th August 2019, 11:13   #19
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Originally Posted by STEWMOND View Post
Hi Steve, the outlet pipe is the top pipe coming out of the bulkhead. If your heater matrix is blocked as you say, it will be cool to the touch, whereas the inlet pipe will be hot at normal running temperature. Just a note to everyone, re-tighten the jubilee clips the following morning before starting the engine. I was surprised how loose mine were after cooling down. Good luck everyone and happy motoring.

Cheers,

Bruno
Good advice but do not overtighten any coolant fasteners just to "be on the safe side". Lost count of the hoses damaged that way by the Jubillee Clips sharp edges leading to coolant loss ... and guess what that means... NO not HGF, Head Gasket DAMAGE from coolant loss over heating.

Here's one of the many that did just that I identified and rectified. Yes, Head Gasket damaged in previous ownership.



Sorted :~



Problems can be caused as simply as that. TLC always with the emphasis on CARE.
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Old 18th August 2019, 01:51   #20
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I'm having the same problem but it looks hard for me to reach the pipes, the room is not as wide as the picture you shared. what is your engine type?? v6?
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