The recommissioning begins - Page 5

SD1too · 4th August 2020, 12:15

I don't know whether to

or

. It's great to hear that your careful, patient and systematic diagnostic work has resulted in success.

I can't remember whether you've had a KV6 before but regarding the manifold chamber rattle, remove the VIS power actuator and check that the valves operating rod is attached properly to it. The VIS balance actuator flap is notorious for sticking in the half way position (ease it with some fine abrasive paper).

Looking forward to the next instalment.

Simon

Ched · 4th August 2020, 16:07

Thanks Simon, I’m still smiling, things like this make it all worthwhile.
Cheers for the pointer, I had a look at the arm and there seems to be no abnormal play in that, the flap also moves very freely.
The engine and inlet have now quietened down a lot, I’d almost forgotten how sweet these engines sound.

Moving on the next job will be getting a mobile mech out to do the belts etc, I shall concentrate on the rest of the jobs to do.
I swapped a wheel over due to a collapsed tyre and I don’t think I’ve ever seen wheel bolts looking so good

Very light rust on the subframe, a clean up and then I think it’ll be undersealed.

So here’s a couple of pics.

The first time she’s moved under her own power for at least 9 years, yes, I’m still grinning.

And under the watchful eye of Iggy.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ched · 23rd August 2020, 16:16

Today I took the opportunity to fit a new strut-engine mounting support bracket, goodness knows why the original was removed, fitted a battery and started her up, fired straight up on the button, the engine runs very sweetly now, I let her run for a few mins then switched her off.
Now I'm back at work progress will be slow on getting the car up to scratch, it looks like the parts bin will be filling up again.

Ched · 16th September 2020, 20:42

Yesterday after moving the car I noticed a damp patch on the floor, I had a look underneath and saw oil around the sump.
Today I removed the right hand wheel and pulled the arch liner back to be greeted by a bodge, someone had damaged the dip tube and / or the connector, so an unwanted job to address.

When I moved the car and pressed the brake pedal it went to the floor.
The servo appears to be working ok so I checked the vacuum pipe and that was intact.
I can only assume the master cylinder has had its day, fluid level hasnt moved and no visible signs of fluid on the floor or at the pipe joins or calipers.
I was expecting a seal or 2 on the calipers to go, maybe thats still to come.

The eml keeps coming on so checking again with the code reader, the same recurring faults are coming up, all can be traced to the wiring loom as one of the codes suggests faulty wiring.
Strangely this is why the car broke down in the beginning, a visual inspection of the loom confirms that again, a monkey has been fiddling about.
A replacement loom will sort this out once and for all.

All of the missing parts for the engine bay have been bought and fitted, new unless its nla, this is in keeping with the overall condition of the car.

I also got the jetwash out and had a blast on the underside of the engine and gearbox and was surprised at just how much dirt and dust was removed, it certainly looks alot nicer now.

Ched · 18th September 2020, 19:13

So today I had some news that confirmed my worst suspicions.

When I was putting things back together correctly in the engine bay I decided to check the engine number.
Checking the log book confirmed that the engine had in fact been changed.
The engine code didnt match, a bit of googling showed up that the code N13 was a ZS 180 lump.

This was confirmed by a member on here earlier today.

Contact was made to the original owner just after I got the car by a bit of detective work, and he said that he thought that the engine might have been changed, so by that bit of info I kept my eye open for another low mileage lump, if that was possible.
A year later one popped up so I contacted the guy and bought it hoping that I really didnt have to do an engine swap but I had one if needed.

This realistically wont happen till next year, at the moment the car moves under its own power, it also allows me time to fully service the replacement engine.

Life eh....

4th August 2020, 12:15	#41
SD1too Doesn't do things by halves Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Former Middlesex Posts: 20,338 Thanks: 1,587 Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts	I don't know whether to or . It's great to hear that your careful, patient and systematic diagnostic work has resulted in success. I can't remember whether you've had a KV6 before but regarding the manifold chamber rattle, remove the VIS power actuator and check that the valves operating rod is attached properly to it. The VIS balance actuator flap is notorious for sticking in the half way position (ease it with some fine abrasive paper). Looking forward to the next instalment. Simon __________________ "Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce.

4th August 2020, 16:07	#42
Ched I really should get out more....... MG ZT V8, MGZT 135 derv ,MG TF 135 Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Romsey Posts: 2,293 Thanks: 553 Thanked 573 Times in 385 Posts	Thanks Simon, I’m still smiling, things like this make it all worthwhile. Cheers for the pointer, I had a look at the arm and there seems to be no abnormal play in that, the flap also moves very freely. The engine and inlet have now quietened down a lot, I’d almost forgotten how sweet these engines sound. Moving on the next job will be getting a mobile mech out to do the belts etc, I shall concentrate on the rest of the jobs to do. I swapped a wheel over due to a collapsed tyre and I don’t think I’ve ever seen wheel bolts looking so good Very light rust on the subframe, a clean up and then I think it’ll be undersealed. So here’s a couple of pics. The first time she’s moved under her own power for at least 9 years, yes, I’m still grinning. And under the watchful eye of Iggy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Last edited by Ched; 4th August 2020 at 17:15..

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23rd August 2020, 16:16	#43
Ched I really should get out more....... MG ZT V8, MGZT 135 derv ,MG TF 135 Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Romsey Posts: 2,293 Thanks: 553 Thanked 573 Times in 385 Posts	Today I took the opportunity to fit a new strut-engine mounting support bracket, goodness knows why the original was removed, fitted a battery and started her up, fired straight up on the button, the engine runs very sweetly now, I let her run for a few mins then switched her off. Now I'm back at work progress will be slow on getting the car up to scratch, it looks like the parts bin will be filling up again.

16th September 2020, 20:42	#44
Ched I really should get out more....... MG ZT V8, MGZT 135 derv ,MG TF 135 Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Romsey Posts: 2,293 Thanks: 553 Thanked 573 Times in 385 Posts	Yesterday after moving the car I noticed a damp patch on the floor, I had a look underneath and saw oil around the sump. Today I removed the right hand wheel and pulled the arch liner back to be greeted by a bodge, someone had damaged the dip tube and / or the connector, so an unwanted job to address. When I moved the car and pressed the brake pedal it went to the floor. The servo appears to be working ok so I checked the vacuum pipe and that was intact. I can only assume the master cylinder has had its day, fluid level hasnt moved and no visible signs of fluid on the floor or at the pipe joins or calipers. I was expecting a seal or 2 on the calipers to go, maybe thats still to come. The eml keeps coming on so checking again with the code reader, the same recurring faults are coming up, all can be traced to the wiring loom as one of the codes suggests faulty wiring. Strangely this is why the car broke down in the beginning, a visual inspection of the loom confirms that again, a monkey has been fiddling about. A replacement loom will sort this out once and for all. All of the missing parts for the engine bay have been bought and fitted, new unless its nla, this is in keeping with the overall condition of the car. I also got the jetwash out and had a blast on the underside of the engine and gearbox and was surprised at just how much dirt and dust was removed, it certainly looks alot nicer now.

18th September 2020, 19:13	#45
Ched I really should get out more....... MG ZT V8, MGZT 135 derv ,MG TF 135 Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Romsey Posts: 2,293 Thanks: 553 Thanked 573 Times in 385 Posts	So today I had some news that confirmed my worst suspicions. When I was putting things back together correctly in the engine bay I decided to check the engine number. Checking the log book confirmed that the engine had in fact been changed. The engine code didnt match, a bit of googling showed up that the code N13 was a ZS 180 lump. This was confirmed by a member on here earlier today. Contact was made to the original owner just after I got the car by a bit of detective work, and he said that he thought that the engine might have been changed, so by that bit of info I kept my eye open for another low mileage lump, if that was possible. A year later one popped up so I contacted the guy and bought it hoping that I really didnt have to do an engine swap but I had one if needed. This realistically wont happen till next year, at the moment the car moves under its own power, it also allows me time to fully service the replacement engine. Life eh....