Front hub nuts - torque question

[Blink]

Originally Posted by Daveluck

Can you not hire a crane or an over engine support beam? ( Can't remember what the last are actually called, they consist of a bar that spans the bay and the engine and gearbox hangs off it from chains /ropes.

I made one out of a stout piece of timber, a couple of nylon ropes and the timber held above the car on a couple of step Ladders each side of the car.


I also used it with a ratchet tie down to lift the gearbox from the floor to mate with the engine, also to lift / support the sub frame.

A bit ghetto tech but I didn't have anything else to hand.

An engine crane makes it all a bit easier...as I found out the 3rd time I removed the gearbox...

There's not enough room for a stepladder on one side of the car - a brick wall is in the way. A beam across the engine bay and resting just inside the wings might do it, if that's possible without damaging them.

A crane would do it but I've got nowhere to store it securely overnight so I'd have to get the box out and back in again the same day. It's doable if nothing goes wrong with the clutch bits.

[Daveluck]

https://youtu.be/mYf0YBTQopg

Tried the jack on the subframe it kind of worked.

Not tried the thread through the wood.

Marina Brian suggested a couple of M12(?) Rods replacing the bolts that hold the subfram in place (opposit corners ) and just lower and raise them on that.

Anyways some sort of combo will probably help you out / get you out of trouble. ( Hopefully!!!)

Good luck!

[macafee2]

Originally Posted by Blink

There's not enough room for a stepladder on one side of the car - a brick wall is in the way. A beam across the engine bay and resting just inside the wings might do it, if that's possible without damaging them.

A crane would do it but I've got nowhere to store it securely overnight so I'd have to get the box out and back in again the same day. It's doable if nothing goes wrong with the clutch bits.

if you are thinking of just changing the mount can engine and gearbox be supported on a jack? if the clutch, I have used the method shown in the youtube video a post above has linked to. The problem I had with that method, is that the engine is sitting at an angle but the gearbox is trying to sit horizontally so was difficult to split. When it came to putting it back mike noc helped me. He had 1 or 2 metal rods that be bolted to where the engine mount goes and a strap to the gearbox, he was then able to get the gearbox to sit at an angle to match the engine.

I too have used marianabrians method of studs for the sub frame and it makes it easier to align, raise and lower

macafee2

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by Blink

I've always thought it was most likely to be a clutch problem Brian. It even causes trouble when pulling away ordinarily (e.g. in a straight line from traffic lights) - it feels like a flat spot and I usually have to slip it to pull away smoothly.

I was thinking about changing it while the subframe is out of the way but the weight of the gearbox is putting me off. I'm not sure I can take it off on my own without dropping it (no assistant!) and I'm not sure I can lift it back up again and hold it in position while I line everything up properly. The car is only 350mm off the ground at the sill jacking points btw so there's not much room to crawl around easily.


When you say gearbox mounting, do you mean this one?

There's lots of info in the How-TOs to lift and lower the gear box and very easy ways to line it all up on re-fitting.

Very little physical effort required just a bit of ingenuity.--

[Blink]

Originally Posted by Daveluck

https://youtu.be/mYf0YBTQopg

Tried the jack on the subframe it kind of worked.

Not tried the thread through the wood.

Marina Brian suggested a couple of M12(?) Rods replacing the bolts that hold the subfram in place (opposit corners ) and just lower and raise them on that.

Anyways some sort of combo will probably help you out / get you out of trouble. ( Hopefully!!!)

Good luck!

Originally Posted by macafee2

if you are thinking of just changing the mount can engine and gearbox be supported on a jack? if the clutch, I have used the method shown in the youtube video a post above has linked to. The problem I had with that method, is that the engine is sitting at an angle but the gearbox is trying to sit horizontally so was difficult to split. When it came to putting it back mike noc helped me. He had 1 or 2 metal rods that be bolted to where the engine mount goes and a strap to the gearbox, he was then able to get the gearbox to sit at an angle to match the engine.

I too have used marianabrians method of studs for the sub frame and it makes it easier to align, raise and lower

macafee2

Originally Posted by COLVERT

There's lots of info in the How-TOs to lift and lower the gear box and very easy ways to line it all up on re-fitting.

Very little physical effort required just a bit of ingenuity.--

I got the subframe off yesterday using the same lengths of M12 threaded rod I cut for the rear subframe. I only used two in the L & R centre bolt holes and it worked fine. In fact it took longer to get the top right steering rack bolt out than it did to lower the frame because there's an exhaust manifold in the way - access is horrible. Is there a trick to getting a spanner onto it? I'm talking about the one that goes in here.



Anyway, back to the clutch/gearbox plot.

The method in the Youtube link (https://youtu.be/mYf0YBTQopg) looks the easiest way of supporting the gearbox but Ian had trouble with the different engine & box angles when trying to join them up again. Ian: Did you take any pics of Mike Noc's strap/rod setup?

I'll give the Youtube method a go while the subframe is off and access is as good as it can be underneath. I don't know which is the best clutch kit to buy though - any recommendations (V6)?


PS. Jon: I only found these two in the How To section - https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...ghlight=clutch / https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...ad.php?t=45125

[Daveluck]

If I remember rightly there is a nice lug on the box that I call a liftin eye.

If you use the lifting eye on the gearbox by attaching a ( for example ) a u shaped bracket with a bolt going through that bracket and the lifting eye then it will pivot up and down giving you some flexibility.

Don't forget you can lower and raise the engine a little without putting too much stress on the hydramount and other engine mount to improve the angle of attack.

I too struggled with the same steering rack bolt. I overcame it with a deepish socket and a flexible headed ratchet.

[Blink]

Thanks Dave. I'll go and look for the lifting eye on the box - I've never noticed one before.

I knew you could lift the engine slightly by using a jack under the sump but I didn't realise you could use it to tweak the angle - I can see how that would help.

Which clutch kit did you fit? (And are you happy with it? ).


Edit: Coincidence! Rimmers just sent me a "10% off clutch kits" email - which brings their 3pc kit ZUA001341 down from £151 to £136.

[Daveluck]

Originally Posted by Blink

Thanks Dave. I'll go and look for the lifting eye on the box - I've never noticed one before.

I knew you could lift the engine slightly by using a jack under the sump but I didn't realise you could use it to tweak the angle - I can see how that would help.

Which clutch kit did you fit? (And are you happy with it? ).


Edit: Coincidence! Rimmers just sent me a "10% off clutch kits" email - which brings their 3pc kit ZUA001341 down from £151 to £136.

I'm not happy with the manual clutch full stop! Wish I'd got automatic but they are rare as hen's teeth out here especially when coupled with a diesel.

So I went with Luk clutch plate but with a tazu master and slave.

Originally I fitted an Luk slave,that failed after 1000km or so, then a tazu which failed at around 5k because it had no grease. The replacement tazu has been in for around 12k now.

I also changed the dmf. Mine was knocking quite a bit and when I had it out it actually rattled.

Care with dropping the engine down. Andy willi came into some stick as he used to let the engine rest completely on the left hand mounts when he changed the clutches. ( As I understand it ) with no support from a jack.

I don't know if that is a complete no no or not.

I found that dropping them right hand by about an inch or so and then tilting the box via the lug was good enough.

Still a pig of a job to line up and to do on your own though.

[macafee2]

Originally Posted by Blink

I got the subframe off yesterday using the same lengths of M12 threaded rod I cut for the rear subframe. I only used two in the L & R centre bolt holes and it worked fine. In fact it took longer to get the top right steering rack bolt out than it did to lower the frame because there's an exhaust manifold in the way - access is horrible. Is there a trick to getting a spanner onto it? I'm talking about the one that goes in here.



Anyway, back to the clutch/gearbox plot.

The method in the Youtube link (https://youtu.be/mYf0YBTQopg) looks the easiest way of supporting the gearbox but Ian had trouble with the different engine & box angles when trying to join them up again. Ian: Did you take any pics of Mike Noc's strap/rod setup?

I'll give the Youtube method a go while the subframe is off and access is as good as it can be underneath. I don't know which is the best clutch kit to buy though - any recommendations (V6)?


PS. Jon: I only found these two in the How To section - https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...ghlight=clutch / https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...ad.php?t=45125

No sorry I did not take a picture. PM mike see if he can send you a photo of what he used

As for the bolt for the steering rack, I've not had a problem accessing them. Yes the gearbox will pivot but not only would I have struggled without mike nocs help putting the gearbox on, I struggled to split them due to the angle. Perhaps all I needed was practice but the gearbox is heavy.

macafee2

[macafee2]

Originally Posted by Blink

Thanks Dave. I'll go and look for the lifting eye on the box - I've never noticed one before.

I knew you could lift the engine slightly by using a jack under the sump but I didn't realise you could use it to tweak the angle - I can see how that would help.

Which clutch kit did you fit? (And are you happy with it? ).


Edit: Coincidence! Rimmers just sent me a "10% off clutch kits" email - which brings their 3pc kit ZUA001341 down from £151 to £136.

jack under the engine, I'd go for a scissor jack instead of hydraulic trolley as you have more control over lifting and lowering. Stick a floor board between jack and engine.
is this clutch kit and good? we are talking diesel?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LuK-REPSET-PRO-LANDROVER-FREELANDER-MG-ZT-ROVER-75-ALL-2-0-CDTI-623314533/202302582564

macafee2