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22nd October 2010, 14:19 | #111 |
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Update
No problems with the in-line 'stat installation and,quite frankly, I don't expect any. If the original 'stat stuck in the closed position then it would have to be replaced and nothing i have done has altered that fact. What it has altered is that if you have a 'stat which opens too early then you can just ignore it and leave it in situ because the temperature will still be controlled by the new,higher rated one which is fitted closer to the radiator in an easily accessible position. If the new unit did fail it would only be important if it stuck closed. In that case the in-line stat housing could be removed completely by undoing two hose clips and replacing with a suitable piece of pipe. I say use pipe because the housing has two spanner fittings which are approximately 2 1/2" across the flats! Not a size you are likely to be carrying in the boot if you wanted to fit another
Thermostat by the roadside. What a thought....change a diesel 75 thermostat in minutes by the roadside! The OBD running temperatures are from 87C to 93C and are entirely dependent on the load on the engine. Last edited by wuzerk; 22nd October 2010 at 14:35.. |
22nd October 2010, 17:34 | #112 |
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Any chance of a how to etc happening soon?
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22nd October 2010, 18:03 | #113 |
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22nd October 2010, 18:33 | #114 | |
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Quote:
Well done on this Wuzerk. Like you say the worst that can happen is the new one fails closed, even then I believe there would be plenty of warning ie visible steam, then an even bigger delay before any serious damage to the hot lump. 28 mins Wuzerk states !
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22nd October 2010, 22:10 | #115 | |
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Quote:
TC |
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22nd October 2010, 22:21 | #116 |
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In-Line Stat.
Yes, it is rare that such a useful modification is so easy to fit once you have summoned the nerve to cut the pipe! Points to note:
1.Use plastic sheet to prevent water hitting the Alternator when you cut the pipe. 2.It is probably sensible to remove the undertray because otherwise the water sits there and, in the middle of your test run, you suddenly see steam wafting from the grill causing panic until you realise what is happening. OR, follow Jules advice (below) re lowering the expansion tank. 3. Be sure to install the Thermostat the right way round. The wax housing, with '195' stamped on it, should face the engine block. 4.It is hard to fit the 1 1/2" stub into the sawn pipe on the engine block side but washing up liquid helps and, once in, it is very snug and there is no need for any sort of support bracket. 5. The other cut should be made so that you have enough of the straight hose pipe left to engage the end of the 'stat housing without involving the bend in the top hose. 6. Much to my surprise, with the radiator cap fitted, I only lost just over a litre of coolant when I cut the pipe. So have your 50/50 mix of OAT antifreeze ready. OR follow Jules suggestion (below). 7. The spanner flats on the housing are approx. 2 1/2" across! If you have the facilities is would be worth making up a couple of sheet metal 'spanners' to carry in the boot together with a spare Thermostat. This would mean that, if necessary, you really could change the diesel stat on the side of the road! If not, I would carry a suitable 4" length of tube which would replace the entire housing if necessary. An exhaust centre would probably supply a piece of stainless? 8. I have no idea of the reliability of the Chevrolet stat, but imagine they know what they are doing in the USA and I am sure one of us will find an alternative if it proves necessary. 9. For those of you with underperforming 'stats, hurry up, winter is nearly here! NOTE: I used a stat housing with 1 1/2" hose fittings. The diesel top hose is tapered and the 1 1/2" stub was almost impossible to fit in the radiator side of the cut pipe. You need 1 1/2" at the engine block end and 1 1/4" at the rad end. There is no part number for this configuration but the supplier says just let him know and that the price will be the same. The suppliers e-mail is [email protected] and the website is: http://www.meziere.com/displaycategory.aspx?id=244,323 Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us I HAVE INCLUDED THE PICS AGAIN FOR THOSE WHO MISSED THEM EARLIER. NOTE: There IS a well hidden bleed hole in the rim of the thermostat plate so there is no need to drill any new bleed holes. This mod gets simpler every time I look at it! Last edited by wuzerk; 24th October 2010 at 19:35.. |
22nd October 2010, 22:25 | #117 |
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Stat hole
I would agree with TC re the 1mm hole which I drilled to remove the chance of an air lock. it is worth fitting the Chevvy stat as it comes, with no hole. If an air lock does occur then i think the problem will resolve itself as soon as the 'stat opens the first time?
EDIT: There IS a well hidden hole in the thermostat valve plate so there is no need to make another one. Last edited by wuzerk; 26th October 2010 at 13:35.. |
22nd October 2010, 22:33 | #118 |
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Trouble is it will probably cause a price hike when USA get a sudden surge of orders !! So don't all rush at once.
Another reason to have a proper Club Shop to have a bulk buy. My advice is not to loose any coolant. Simply loosen the 8mm bolt on the header tank and lower it next to the Battery so you can syphon off the excess, then pour it back in when job complete. Don't forget Gents a stuck closed Stat will never be as bad as an actual water leak (hence low coolant level round the block) as there will be plenty of warning in the way of steam, without engine damage
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26th October 2010, 10:29 | #119 |
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Is anyone considering a bulk buy??
Should we see if people are interested.
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26th October 2010, 11:11 | #120 |
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Chaps
I'm waiting on a bulk quote from them.
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