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12th February 2021, 21:59 | #71 |
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MG ZT 260, Rover 75 Connie SE auto Join Date: Feb 2013
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This was my last desperate attempt to get into the car. I put acoustic foam over the hood weighted against the wind to dampen the noise from the BBUS. Then connected the V8 battery to pin 9 with the CTEK in parallel. BBUS fired up at around 2v. I monitored current and voltage continuously. Took about 15 mins to register 7v on the ZT-T with the donor battery and charger disconnected so I was sure the battery was charging via pin 9 and there was no relay in the way. The BBUS was still going off even louder. Tried the key fob but still no joy. Bit frustrated I went in to grab a coffee. 15 mins later I came out and noticed the BBUS had gone silent. Voltage was oscillating between 10.5 to 13v .Current was pulsing between 2 and 4.6 amps. Voltage was now 11.2 on ZT-T with donor battery and charger disconnected. Tried the fob again but no joy. Put key in driver door and turned it to unlock as per Rick's advice. Heard the solenoid in the rear passenger door activate weakly. Went back inside for fifteen mins approx while charging continued. Then re-tried the key fob in the driver door at unlock position and pressed it several times. The rear doors popped open but not the front doors. Jon’s tip did work (eventually) after all lol . I think the front solenoids might fire up as the battery charges further and will report later on. Thanks for all the advice. Hood, sorry Simon, bonnet is now open. Hip, hip Yay! Over the moon it worked. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Last edited by edwardmk; 12th February 2021 at 22:12.. Reason: added omitted words |
13th February 2021, 00:09 | #72 | |
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Quote:
The eventual end of lockdown is going to be an anti climax after that Martin! Now leave your C-tek across your battery for 36 hours and don't switch it off! Simon
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13th February 2021, 09:48 | #73 |
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Lol. I can confess to feeling somewhat elated Simon Battery is on the bench for a long charge. Rear door buttons in open position and with no battery in the car they should stay that way. Nevertheless, rubber block under the bonnet so there is no way it can be accidentally lock until I understand a bit more. Think I might check the plenum drains while I'm at it. I'm hoping it was all flat battery related, but I've never checked the drains on this car, so this would be a good time to do it.
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13th February 2021, 09:58 | #74 |
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And worth investigating why the key doesent open the car which it should irrespective of battery condition.
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13th February 2021, 10:12 | #75 | |
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I couldn't agree more with Scott. Martin, now that the battery's out of the car, insert your key blade into the driver's door lock and turn it anticlockwise. This should retract the door sill button and mechanically lock the driver's door only. If it doesn't, as soon as the weather warms up next week, remove the door card to see what's going on. Simon
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13th February 2021, 12:34 | #76 |
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Having had a lifetime's employment in the comms industry, beginning with my apprenticeship & nearly 20yrs with the Pye/Philipps group on mobile radios, Can I offer their spec for vehicle voltages. All the radios were designed to operate on a nominal voltage of 13.8v (ie for a 12v car). They had to work down to 11v (whiwas the lowest voltage before the battery was considered flat). High voltage spec was cset at 15.6v, anything over that was considered to abnormally high, and were also considered as industry standards. Worth noting these voltages whenever you check vltage or battery chargers.
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13th February 2021, 20:58 | #77 | |
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13th February 2021, 21:06 | #78 | |
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Drill the access hole for the Plenum chamber drain system. The dimensions can be found on the forum. ( Arctic I think posted them. ) As Simon said in his post, give the battery a long charge. Ignore the --Battery is FULL---light because these sometimes tell lies.-- I'll tell you why if you feel you need to know.--- PS. Oil the bonnet catch mechanism as you now have the bonnet open. |
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13th February 2021, 21:06 | #79 |
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Voltage at the battery when I got access under the bonnet was much lower than measured at the trailer socket. That battery voltage is with the V8 battery and CTEK connected showing over 12v at the socket. Explained some of the wierdness with the door buttons. I took the battery off the car and charged it on the bench for over 12 hours New battery fitted Yuasa HSB 096 Now the door solenoids are perfect on the rear doors. Front passenger door makes no sound and remains locked. I can open that door from the inside but not the outside. The drivers door will only open with the key in the lock to assist when pressing the fob. The button then returns to lock. I forgot when I drove the car into the garage and had to exit through the passenger door. Door card is coming off shortly. I think the passenger door card will also have to come off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
13th February 2021, 21:15 | #80 |
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If your last picture shows your new battery voltage then it's too low. There could be two reasons for this.
1/ It's not fully charged.--If checked at least two hours after charging when the voltage has settled it should read at LEAST 12.6 volts. 1/ Maybe, just maybe your multi-meter is not as accurate as you might like.--- |
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