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Old 15th February 2021, 22:18   #91
edwardmk
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Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
Hi Martin,

I notice from your photograph that you may have disconnected the charger when it reached stage no. 4 which C-tek defines as "battery ready for use". You'll find that it's better to let it complete the programme and reach stage 7 "fully charged" which is when the charger enters the trickle ("float") mode.

Torch!

There's a lot of unnecessary fuss made about this. I have a syringe of MG Rover special lock lubricant. It's just light grease! All this does is to ease the passage of the key blade channel through the engagement mechanism. WD40 may freeze (I remember this from years ago) but really, if the key blade is kept clean and the dust cover on the slot is functioning, you don't need to go mad with lubricants. Silicone aerosol spray is very effective and smells nice too!

Simon
Hi Simon,

I left the battery charging again until the 7th light came on and noticed the voltage had dropped in trickle mode to around 13.4. (On position 6 it was at 15.45 which quite surprised me.) I'm pretty sure the battery is good but will check again tomorrow.
While disconnected from power I did manual door checks as follows. Rear doors, push buttons down, doors lock. Pull door handles inside (once) they unlock. Pull outside they remain locked. Conclusion normal manual operation?
Front passenger door, same as rear on manual, so also normal?
Driver's door is an issue on manual. If I lock the door (anticlockwise) with the key and take the key out, then the inside handle won't open the door from inside the car. However, if I lock the door with the key and leave it in, then two pulls of the inside handle opens the door. Now the door will open and close using the outside handle with the key left (stuck) in the barrel. To free the trapped key I must manually re-lock from the outside. Then I can't manually unlock from outside or inside.
Next I locked the driver door from the outside to get the key fob free (for the alarm), and locked all the other doors. Connected the battery, no alarm sounded! Took the negative lead off the battery and alarm went off. Re-connected the battery and used the fob to silence the alarm. Pressed the fob button to unlock and lock several times. The rear door buttons unlocked and locked normally. There was a single beep on locking with the fob every time which I suspect was the open bonnet.
Front passenger door button was totally inactive. The driver's door did react up and down, but the door didn't unlock, unless I put they key in and gave a manual assist on opening. The only way to open the driver's door from outside is with the key fob and the key working wirelessly and manually in sync.
I'm thinking a bad connection or failed solenoid in the front passenger door.
Clueless about the driver door. (Both door cards are off)
A torch and mirror examination didn't show anything apparently broken. When the key turns, I see a small drive shaft turn with no slippage at the key end, but can't see what happens at the other end. I feel the driver side is very close to working normally. The button amplitude/range appears to be less than it should be. AC 90 lubricant definitely improved things, but it wasn't enough

Last edited by edwardmk; 15th February 2021 at 22:24.. Reason: typo
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Old 16th February 2021, 08:48   #92
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(On position 6 it was at 15.45 which quite surprised me.)
Did you have the reconditioning option activated? You should be using the normal charging mode.
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However, if I lock the door with the key and leave it in ...
That's not a normal procedure Martin so it's perhaps not surprising that you're getting unexpected results. Either use the key blade manually and withdraw it from the lock before operating any handles or use the remote control buttons but not both!
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The driver's door did react up and down, but the door didn't unlock, unless I put they key in and gave a manual assist on opening.
Can you locate any electrical connector to the driver's door actuator and try re-seating it? On the face of it, it sounds like a high resistance connection.

Simon
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Old 16th February 2021, 12:18   #93
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Did you have the reconditioning option activated? You should be using the normal charging mode.

I think it probably was on recondition from the last battery. I'll get that changed

That's not a normal procedure Martin so it's perhaps not surprising that you're getting unexpected results. Either use the key blade manually and withdraw it from the lock before operating any handles or use the remote control buttons but not both!

I wish I could. The key will only withdraw in locked position. In unlocked it seems trapped. If I lock and remove the key, the interior handle doesn't work. Interior handle works only with the key in the lock. Very odd.
If I unlock with the key, the key remains trapped in the barrel. The door opens and closes normally with a trapped key, but fails to open the door with the key out.

Can you locate any electrical connector to the driver's door actuator and try re-seating it? On the face of it, it sounds like a high resistance connection.

I can see the connector and plan to remove and re-seat. I'll report back later.

Simon
Thanks again for the support Simon
Martin
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Old 16th February 2021, 20:44   #94
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There are 6 cells in the battery. That green indicator only tells you the condition of the cell that it's in.---The cell next door might be totally dead.--------Ten volts after charging means you have one dead cell.--

Some of your latest readings indicate that at last all is well.---
Edward.---Was my above post any use to you ??
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Old 16th February 2021, 21:16   #95
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Edward.---Was my above post any use to you ??
Absolutely Jon. Somehow I missed reading it , so much appreciate your following up with this information.
I didn't realise the monitor window was only on one cell. That explains a lot of my observations and frustrations over the years with many batteries. The old ZT-T battery has now recovered to about 11.8 volts, but I know it's got a problem, and one duff cell down on capacity would explain that. I'm confident if presented with a load the voltage would rapidly collapse! Just got an interesting e-mail from Halfords. If I return the old battery to the store, I'll get a £10 discount voucher on my next purchase. Must read the small print lol.
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Old 19th February 2021, 13:10   #96
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You're not going to believe this...

The exact thing has just happened to me. Yesterday I had the ignition on for about 10 mins whilst I was doing a few bits around the car and then when I went to start the car it just kept clicking as the battery had drained too low. All other electrics worked fine.

As it was late I locked the car up and planned to remove the battery and put it on trickle charge today. Have tried to unlock the door with the fob and it isn't unlocking and I can't open the driver's door with the key!

The driver's door lock definitely works, I've only used it recently. I only just put a new battery on Redfive in August last year.

I seem to have the exact problem you had. My fob isn't doing anything and for some reason I cannot open the driver's door with the key, even though that usually opens the driver's door even when there isn't a battery fitted to the car.
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Old 19th February 2021, 15:34   #97
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You're not going to believe this...

The exact thing has just happened to me. Yesterday I had the ignition on for about 10 mins whilst I was doing a few bits around the car and then when I went to start the car it just kept clicking as the battery had drained too low. All other electrics worked fine.

As it was late I locked the car up and planned to remove the battery and put it on trickle charge today. Have tried to unlock the door with the fob and it isn't unlocking and I can't open the driver's door with the key!

The driver's door lock definitely works, I've only used it recently. I only just put a new battery on Redfive in August last year.

I seem to have the exact problem you had. My fob isn't doing anything and for some reason I cannot open the driver's door with the key, even though that usually opens the driver's door even when there isn't a battery fitted to the car.


Very sorry to hear that Rick. That at least makes me feel I'm not going crazy. I've got both door cards off and am going over everything on the locks, but so far can't see anything obviously wrong. I'm planning some tests with a fully charged battery later on this weekend and will post reports, but I was so grateful to get back into the car without having to go through the awkward 'feel for the bonnet cable' technique. She's in the garage now with the doors open and the battery disconnected just in case the random battery drain destroys another new battery while I'm not looking
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Old 19th February 2021, 16:05   #98
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Very sorry to hear that Rick. That at least makes me feel I'm not going crazy. I've got both door cards off and am going over everything on the locks, but so far can't see anything obviously wrong. I'm planning some tests with a fully charged battery later on this weekend and will post reports, but I was so grateful to get back into the car without having to go through the awkward 'feel for the bonnet cable' technique. She's in the garage now with the doors open and the battery disconnected just in case the random battery drain destroys another new battery while I'm not looking
Right managed to get mine sorted.

Had to put jump leads on the starter motor and slam panel from underneath and connected to my spare battery and the car powered up straight away.

As soon as I had power the hazard lights were flashing as the alarm was going off but no sound from my BBUS unit as it's dead (got a replacement one on it's way at the moment).

So seems like the alarm must have been going off which must have drained the battery to completely dead (the battery voltage dropping below a certain level must have set the alarm off at some point over night), but I checked through my security camera footage and the hazard lights weren't flashing at any point during the night.

Immediately after connecting the jump leads and having power to the car I was able to unlock it with the fob. All doors unlocked fine. And was now able to unlock the car using the key in the driver's door as well.

Had the jump leads on for about 5 minutes and then as soon as I disconnected them all power completely died, so the battery must have been completely drained.

I've fitted the spare battery for the moment which unlocks the car and starts it fine, the other battery is currently on trickle charge and will test it once it's fully charged.

The battery had only been on the car since August last year. I had noticed recently on a few occasions over the last week on the first start up of the day the car would turn over a bit slowly, but then on other days it would fire up fine. Maybe due to the lack of longer journeys, but it has had a couple good runs recently.

Have you tried connecting a known good battery to the ZTT? I think the problem with you not being able to unlock certain doors may be due to the battery being no good?

The battery fitted to your ZTT was this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-75-...72.m2749.l2649

I've used these for about 7 or 8 years now. The last two I bought have been for your ZTT and redfive. Although I've not had any problem with these batteries until now, I'm wondering if they're not as good quality as the ones I'd bought from the seller previously? Just because we both have had the same problem and both have the same battery model fitted.

Also, does anyone know, if I lock the car with the fob so that it's alarmed and the alarm then goes off, does this prevent me from being able to unlock the car using the key in the door? So the only way to now unlock the car is by using the fob to disable the alarm? is this some sort of security feature?
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Old 19th February 2021, 16:17   #99
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Why not try it?
Leave the drivers window open, bonnet open and put a weight on the bonnet switch. then lock the car with the fob, stick your arm into the car and set the volumetric alarm off. Disconnect the battery on the car ( to simulate flat battery and then try to unlock with the key or leave battery connected and try to open with key.
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Old 19th February 2021, 16:22   #100
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Why not try it?
Leave the drivers window open, bonnet open and put a weight on the bonnet switch. then lock the car with the fob, stick your arm into the car and set the volumetric alarm off. Disconnect the battery on the car ( to simulate flat battery and then try to unlock with the key or leave battery connected and try to open with key.
Haven't got a volumetric alarm on mine but I'll try that when I get time I'll just leave the door open and press the boot release button that'll set off the alarm.
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