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13th October 2017, 18:23 | #1 |
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Rear road springs
Hi all
My ZT has just failed it’s MOT on a broken rear spring. I am tempted to have a go at changing it myself. What do you think, easy or hard job? Thanks. |
13th October 2017, 18:35 | #2 |
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MG ZT 190 Join Date: Oct 2011
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13th October 2017, 19:54 | #3 |
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
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Hard. Suspension work always is. But that's not to say that you shouldn't have a go.
Simon
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13th October 2017, 20:51 | #4 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 Connie Mk2 1.8 (Mo) Join Date: Feb 2017
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Worst part always seems to be the shocker bolt which can seize on solid. If you have a powerful impact drill it should make it easier. As the spring is broken there should be no tension to worry about.
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Mo was born Tuesday, 22nd June 2004 @ 08:32:41 This vehicle was the 99,307th 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381 This vehicle was the 5,377th 75 1.8 Connoisseur to be made out of 6,033 This vehicle was the 783rd 75 in Firefrost Red (code: CEV) to be made out of 2,089 Firefrost Red 75s |
13th October 2017, 23:52 | #5 | |
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Quote:
For the OP's benefit, this is the very easy way to replace a rear road spring..... First off remove the M14 bolt securing the lower shock absorber to rear trailing arm, this has an 18mm AF head on the bolt, it will be tight so a good breaker bar is often required to loosen, so I tend to do this with the car still on it's wheels Jack up both sides of the car, and place axle stands with a piece of stout atop wood to protect the sills from damage and point loading. Unclip the flexible brake hoses from their central support bracket on the trailing arms to prevent stress being placed on the hoses. Now comes the clever part, simply slacken slightly the subframe mounting bolts, which are M12 with 15mm AF hexagon, on the opposite side to the spring you're changing, and remove the ones on the side you're changing the spring on, this will allow the whole suspension assembly to move downwards enough to allow the spring to be removed and replaced without fuss. The spring is rotated anticlockwise by 90 degrees to disengage the lower spring isolating rubber from the upper rear suspension arm, and once you have the old spring out from under the car, you swap the isolating rubbers from the old spring to the new and refit the spring to the upper arm, ensuring the cutouts in the lower isolator line up with the drainage holes in the upper rear arm. Once you done that, refit the subframe bolts to that side and remove the opposite side. Once the new springs are fitted, torque up the subframe bolts and damper lower mounting bolts to the specified torque, clip the flexible brake hoses back into their brackets and job done Beats messing about with drop links and rusted fasteners any day of the week..... it took me 20 minutes to do both rear springs Hope this helps Brian |
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14th October 2017, 06:05 | #6 |
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Thanks guys. I’m going to give it a go.....
Brian I’m presuming that I would need to place a jack under the trailing arm to allow it all to drop smoothly and jack the sub frame back in place? |
14th October 2017, 08:49 | #7 |
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I couldn't get the bottom bolt off so just removed the top 2. Definitely my new way of doing it. Less grief. I'll try the bottom ones again in better weather and do the shockers next.
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14th October 2017, 09:27 | #8 | |
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Quote:
All I had to do was undo the bottom end of the damper (as per the videos). The broken spring obviously comes out easily. Unlike suggested in videos, the new spring was a little too long to fit without being compressed. I clamped it in a vice to compress it, then lashed it up in the compressed state. It needs to be lashed in three places around the perimeter. Wind the spring end cushions on, put it on the car, then snip lashings and pull the remnants out. Finally, jack the arm back up enough to fit the damper bolt. The hardest part, was undoing the damper bolt, best to put some penetrating oil on the thread end of the bolt, a couple or so days before you start. Put a jack under the damper to steady it, then you can give the spanner some wellie with a hammer to shock it loose.
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. Last edited by HarryM1BYT; 14th October 2017 at 09:39.. |
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14th October 2017, 09:30 | #9 | |
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Quote:
Brian |
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14th October 2017, 22:50 | #10 | |
MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011
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Quote:
Brian |
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