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1st July 2007, 11:40 | #11 |
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Mazda MX5, BMW 520i Join Date: Feb 2007
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Don't know if this is any use.................. The thread on my locking nut was rounded, ended up knocking a 16mm socket onto it and welding it on. Now at least I can get my wheels off!
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1st July 2007, 13:47 | #12 |
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It looks like you have a third party locking wheel bolt, normally the 260 has the standard fitment as shown above.
I have found the wheels bolts seem to tighten over time on mine especially the rears to the point where they are pigs to undo, a few week ago I had a problem getting one off so I binned the whole lot and bought some chrome bolts instead. Don't over tighten them! It does not help that the 260 wheels are off and on more often and I noticed a couple of my bolt heads were beginning to round off which was another reason I binned them for replacements |
1st July 2007, 16:19 | #13 |
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MG ZT -T 260 Join Date: Nov 2006
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Right...I borrowed some of these screw on locking nut removers but the correct size for the nut is too big to fit in the recess of the alloy wheel.
Anyway I decided to have ago again with the locking nut key on the rear wheel as I know I had that one off not so long ago. The locking nut seemed to grip but the nut was very stiff. A little bit more effort and hey presto the nut came undone.....but only half of it...it snapped halfway down the column of the bolt!!!!! So I have one stuck front (which I now believe to be the fault of the bolt not the key) and one sheared off locking nut at the rear. Oh what a nice day it is: |
1st July 2007, 17:25 | #14 |
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Oh...........hope you can get it sorted out without too much hassle, Like Keith says above, the locking nuts seem to tighten themselfs to the point of sticking (even when you make sure its not too tight!).
I think the best bet is just to go for normal/chrome nuts in the long run, unless the car is to be left in a dodgy area. |
19th July 2007, 19:25 | #15 |
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Just to update you. I've finally got my car sorted. Had to get it towed to a local tyre place (upgraded to homestart on my breakdown policy to do that!)
and they got a replacement locking nut key from McGuard in Germany. Not sure how they knew which one or maybe they're all the same? - £60 for the new locking nut key!!!! I've now removed them all and put standard bolts in. Cant be bothered with that hassle any more...prefer to risk stolen wheels. At least they'll be insured. Just got the small problem of trying to drill the snapped bolt out now...any advice? |
20th July 2007, 18:55 | #16 |
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locking nut key
should have done a search on here first, i got 2 McGuard wheel keys from germany for £20.
regards bill. |
20th July 2007, 19:01 | #17 |
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locking nut key
for anyone else with these type of locking nuts
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ghlight=Mcgard regards bill. |
20th July 2007, 21:26 | #18 | |
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Quote:
Anyway, is there a reasonable 'stub' of the old bolt left? The remains of the bolt shouldn't be very difficult to turn if there's enough left to get a grip on with a suitable tool such as pliers or Mole grips. [If the bolt has snapped flush with the flange, is there anything on the rear face to grip?]EDIT: Just reread your post. It's the rear wheel so no rear access] If not, then drilling a hole is going to be very difficult. Wheel studs are made from very hard steel. You can get tapered stud extractors to do the job, IF you can drill a suitable pilot hole first. TC Last edited by T-Cut; 20th July 2007 at 21:30.. |
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