Metal thermostat housing KV6

kaiser · 13th August 2008, 06:09

I have now got a cracked and leaking thermostat housing on my V6. Less than a year old!
I am going to make a housing in cast aluminium or brass, and split it, so that the thermostat itself can be replaced.
If anyone would be interested in one, in principle, please let me know.
At the moment just dong feasibility.

MikeHurley · 13th August 2008, 16:38

yes I'd be interested in one in due course having replaced the Plastic thing in my KV6 last year. Surprised they were never made of metal in the 1st place as the plastic ones have a reputation of rattling and wearing themselves over a couple of years and then fracturing. Lets have some pics when you've developed your prototype.

HOMER · 14th August 2008, 17:03

Just had mine all replaced so I would be interested for the future as I'm sure it'll go again.

stocktake · 14th August 2008, 18:07

As above, great idea. would be interested

black olive · 14th August 2008, 22:24

sounds like a good idea, the problem would be design/tooling costs for a lost wax or pressure die casting, not sure the demand would be great enough to recoup development costs

kaiser · 15th August 2008, 14:27

Working on it, will let you know.

Jules · 23rd December 2008, 00:23

Any news on these Kaiser?
I would imagine there would be a popular market for these

kaiser · 23rd December 2008, 05:25

No, no news yet.
I am about getting my own unit up and running, but I have damaged one O-ring in the petrol injection pipe, and had to order a replacement.
I hope to get the engine running over Christmas, but you know many good intentions go awry over this period

I will report back when done and dusted!

EXMSRalph · 23rd December 2008, 12:02

Depending upon the final price, we might be interested in these

kaiser · 27th December 2008, 16:45

I have now finally got the engine back together.
I had difficulty in getting the seal right on the front injector pipe. Turned out there was a bit of an o-ring that had got squeezed and disappeared.
Blew the pipe out, but never noticed the missing part.

The good news:
I have taken the car for a short spin. The thermostat seems to work fine, no leaks, quick warm up, cooler running. Still have to do a longer run, because:
The bad news.
I have picked up an (more) engine fault(s), yellow light on. The car runs fine, but a little rough, and then it will loose a bit of power. There is black smoke from the exhaust, as if unburnt petrol.
The question(s).
1. If I have lost petrol pressure and this triggered the (yellow engine) light?
a. will the light stay on until cleared?
b. will this cause the engine to run in limp mode until cleared?
c. can I re-set and clear the engine light without special tools?

The advice.
Before you undertake a strip of the engine, take many pictures, and make sure the light is bright and the pictures sharp. It saved my bacon with the connection of supply/return petrol and also with the one wiring loom where I could not find the corresponding connector. Turned out to be on another wire hiding behind the rear bank of cylinders. Easy! (, if you know how.!)

13th August 2008, 06:09	#1
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	Metal thermostat housing KV6 I have now got a cracked and leaking thermostat housing on my V6. Less than a year old! I am going to make a housing in cast aluminium or brass, and split it, so that the thermostat itself can be replaced. If anyone would be interested in one, in principle, please let me know. At the moment just dong feasibility.

13th August 2008, 16:38	#2
MikeHurley Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon 2.5 V6 Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: London Posts: 659 Thanks: 129 Thanked 26 Times in 24 Posts	yes I'd be interested in one in due course having replaced the Plastic thing in my KV6 last year. Surprised they were never made of metal in the 1st place as the plastic ones have a reputation of rattling and wearing themselves over a couple of years and then fracturing. Lets have some pics when you've developed your prototype. __________________ To do list: Aux Drive Belt ....... Sept 2017 Kaiser Alumium Stat Housing ....Jan 2017 Rear o/s wheel bearing set changed.....Aug 2014 Cam & Aux Belts...May 2014 Tazu Inner tie rod ends...May 2014 Need Timing Belts changed...done April 2014 Front Shocks and Strut Bearings ....done Mar 2014 Polybushes to Wishbone Arms.....done Mar 2014 Handbrake compensator changed...done Oct 2013 Exhaust Back Box a.......done 16/8/13 Quality Front Drop Links...done 16/8/13 Rear Springs ..done 16/8/13

14th August 2008, 18:07	#4
stocktake Vis Whiz Rover 75 2.5 auto Saloon Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: LEEDS Posts: 20,586 Thanks: 2,057 Thanked 3,056 Times in 1,621 Posts	As above, great idea. would be interested __________________ Dave... Lost a few stones and a Gall Bladder and part of a bile duct and all of my dignity in the suppository incident

14th August 2008, 22:24	#5
black olive I really should get out more....... 260 SE vin 214 ( last mark 1 260 ) Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2,009 Thanks: 1 Thanked 8 Times in 4 Posts	sounds like a good idea, the problem would be design/tooling costs for a lost wax or pressure die casting, not sure the demand would be great enough to recoup development costs __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

23rd December 2008, 00:23	#7
Jules This is my second home ZT 260 SE Twilight and 10 other 75 ZT's :O Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Conwy NORTH WALES Posts: 11,094 Thanks: 512 Thanked 1,116 Times in 763 Posts	Any news on these Kaiser? I would imagine there would be a popular market for these __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Newbies do now!! 1. Plenum drains..all 3 or 4 year dependent 2. Cooling fan..All speeds functioning 3. Bonnet cable divider block

14th August 2008, 17:03	#3
HOMER Gets stuck in MG ZT 190+ 2.5 V6 Sadly no more Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Doncaster Posts: 639 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Just had mine all replaced so I would be interested for the future as I'm sure it'll go again.

15th August 2008, 14:27	#6
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	Working on it, will let you know.

23rd December 2008, 05:25	#8
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	No, no news yet. I am about getting my own unit up and running, but I have damaged one O-ring in the petrol injection pipe, and had to order a replacement. I hope to get the engine running over Christmas, but you know many good intentions go awry over this period I will report back when done and dusted!

23rd December 2008, 12:02	#9
EXMSRalph Gets stuck in ZS180, MGF, Rover 400, MG Montego Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Sittingbourne Posts: 534 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Depending upon the final price, we might be interested in these

27th December 2008, 16:45	#10
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	I have now finally got the engine back together. I had difficulty in getting the seal right on the front injector pipe. Turned out there was a bit of an o-ring that had got squeezed and disappeared. Blew the pipe out, but never noticed the missing part. The good news: I have taken the car for a short spin. The thermostat seems to work fine, no leaks, quick warm up, cooler running. Still have to do a longer run, because: The bad news. I have picked up an (more) engine fault(s), yellow light on. The car runs fine, but a little rough, and then it will loose a bit of power. There is black smoke from the exhaust, as if unburnt petrol. The question(s). 1. If I have lost petrol pressure and this triggered the (yellow engine) light? a. will the light stay on until cleared? b. will this cause the engine to run in limp mode until cleared? c. can I re-set and clear the engine light without special tools? The advice. Before you undertake a strip of the engine, take many pictures, and make sure the light is bright and the pictures sharp. It saved my bacon with the connection of supply/return petrol and also with the one wiring loom where I could not find the corresponding connector. Turned out to be on another wire hiding behind the rear bank of cylinders. Easy! (, if you know how.!)

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