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Old 18th October 2020, 20:31   #11
bl52krz
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Originally Posted by Mike Trident View Post
Depends how far you want to go with it.

I have seen superb re-spays for 2k, and some really bad ones for twice that amount. You need to shop about and see work they have done.

Just a few months ago while having some accident damage sorted on our other car, I asked him to look at my Rover with a few to having the paint sorted. It's pretty good, but has some lacquer damage here and there. I suggested a re-spray of the bottom half, up to the chrome trim. He quoted an unbelievable £450. If it turned out as good as the car we had fixed it would be quite passable if I was having the whole car done. If he was only doing the bottom half of the car, it wouldn't be quite on par with the Rover finish on the top half and would be noticeable.

The problem with re-sprays is we expect total perfection, far far better than the original finish! just take a look at the paint of most newish cars, the orange peel is very noticeable on most of them. If you paid for a re-spray and you saw orange peel you would be very disapointed, but it you bought a brand new car costing £££ and it had orange peel, you would except it.
Your comment about ‘orange peel’paint finish is spot on. Just shows there are no discerning motorists about now. Paying more money for a new car that if it was a second hand car 20 years ago, and a respray it would have been rejected. Times, they are a changing, ................and not for the best.
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Old 18th October 2020, 21:44   #12
Parisien
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Your comment about ‘orange peel’paint finish is spot on. Just shows there are no discerning motorists about now. Paying more money for a new car that if it was a second hand car 20 years ago, and a respray it would have been rejected. Times, they are a changing, ................and not for the best.

Truth is no one buys a car any more merely rent them, why be the slightest bit worried about orange peel when you can hand it back, 1,2,3 years later

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Old 19th October 2020, 18:25   #13
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I had my bonnet re sprayed top and underneath this summer, cost me £450, so I reckon somewhere between 2.5k - 4K for the whole car...
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Old 19th October 2020, 18:54   #14
roverbarmy
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I used to hand paint vans and trucks in coach finish (Tekaloid). You could get it mixed to any colour (non-metallic) or choose from the range. You could not tell the difference between brush, roller or spray painted because the paint would self-level over a couple of minutes. You needed perfect conditions (warm, dry, dust and wind free) and it would finish like glass. I've done cars in large home garages. I couldn't do it now as I no longer have a steady enough hand and I also haven't seen the paints around for a while (oil based). Such a shame because the paint went on thicker and lasted well (it had to on trucks going up and down the motorway in all weathers). You could spray it with no thinners (heated) or add a little genuine turpentine for a better flow on hotter days.


Ahhhh! The good old days!


As said by others above, the cost is in the preparation and the paint. I've seen cars in and out the same day! (or even half a day!) Get some local recommendations before parting with your hard earned.


Edit:- Just found some Tekaloid!
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Old 19th October 2020, 19:13   #15
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I have painted motorcycles with a roller, with a finish easily as good as a spray job.

Car would be an issue tho.
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Old 19th October 2020, 19:17   #16
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Someone on ebay was doing car and van resprays for £500! I can't vouch for the finish or how they come out. For that they won't do the inside of doors or boot / bonnet. I did enquire about it a while back. I guess it depends on your standards and whether you can live with a less than perfect job.
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Old 19th October 2020, 19:21   #17
roverbarmy
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I have painted motorcycles with a roller, with a finish easily as good as a spray job.

Car would be an issue tho.
For combined brush and roller work on cars or small vans, start at the roof and work down. Brush the edge (awkward channels, strips etc.), then blend in and cover large areas with the roller. Do one panel at once. I only had to compound down once due to an eejut opening the garage door, blowing dust on the bonnet!
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Old 19th October 2020, 19:30   #18
Mike Trident
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For combined brush and roller work on cars or small vans, start at the roof and work down. Brush the edge (awkward channels, strips etc.), then blend in and cover large areas with the roller. Do one panel at once. I only had to compound down once due to an eejut opening the garage door, blowing dust on the bonnet!
Unfortunately, I no longer have a garage. That would be my issue.
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This vehicle was the 3,318th 75 CDT Connoisseur SE (135) to be made out of 4,744
This vehicle was the 12,440th 75 in Starlight Silver (code: MBB) to be made out of 14,280 Starlight Silver 75s
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Old 19th October 2020, 20:00   #19
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Default The costs are...

If you want a good job these days the costs are high, you're looking at 3 litres of base coat and the same in the clear coat for the size of our cars. If you want an OK job you can have a single coat finish that can be buffed into a good shine but, the best jobs come from a lot of work. I wouldn't dream of painting a car like ours without removing everything first, it's the only way of getting what you want out of a finished job. This is a picture of my old Cortina I painted in 1992 with a solid colour of Venetian Red, it was 3 litres and flatted back for a good polish. The paints these days are far better but much more expensive, I was paying £15 a litre back then but Dupont paint was £250 a litre. It's all down to what you really want.
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