What I did with my Rover 75/MG ZT today? - Page 948

NickC · 21st April 2019, 21:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by MGJohn

You as I and many others have discovered, this is not a five minute job. Been there done that. Hard to describe process verbally. Only advice I can give is to use small mirrors to see how and what goes where. Then patiently reassemble. You may have to remove the Lock Assembly ... again ... to get better viewing access. Good luck.

I took a couple of images when I did the job which may help you. You need to get a good image in mind of what goes where and that aids reassembly :~

Is that the threaded end of the rod you mention? That threaded end is held in a plastic fastener "sandwich" which clips together and hold it fast. All this from memory. You need to remove stuff to see and get the layout in your mind's eye. Then you can put it back together. That's what I did.

This was the reason I first had to do the job. Previous ownership cable tie bodge fix. Resulting from I suspect impatient heavy handed pulling on the door release lever.

Having been there and done that, not relishing a repeat, when the actuator packed up on my passenger front door on my daily driver ZT-T, I fixed that very quickly. By buying a complete door from another MG-R enthusiast who had one he assured me worked perfectly ... in the exact same matching colour too...

The door cost me £30... money well spent. Plus a small bonus of a nice drive into Wales to collect it.

Yes thats the fella... Where does it attach to on the door handle mechanism?

trikey · 21st April 2019, 21:35

On the odd occasion the door operating mechanism had detached, I always remove the handle mech from the door and refit the thing off the car, trying to do this job inside the door is an absolute nightmare.

Id rather do a set of V6 belts than attempt to fit this little beggar inside the door.

NickC · 21st April 2019, 21:36

is there a how to on removing the door handle?

trikey · 21st April 2019, 21:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by NickC

is there a how to on removing the door handle?

Not sure, you have to remove the small piece of chrome trim, then slide the door handle out, this will then let you access the two torx screws.

Plenty of penetrating oil required and take it gently, if you snap these you will need another handle assembly!

macafee2 · 21st April 2019, 22:40

over the weekend removed front bumper so I could polish both head lights and fix a leak on the screen wash. Removed FBH and changed water pump and refitted as well as change PCB, gave car a good hoover as it had made some messy trips to the tip.
Car could do with a wash

macafee2

Arctic · 22nd April 2019, 00:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by NickC

is there a how to on removing the door handle?

Quote:

Originally Posted by trikey

Not sure, you have to remove the small piece of chrome trim, then slide the door handle out, this will then let you access the two torx screws.

Plenty of penetrating oil required and take it gently, if you snap these you will need another handle assembly!

As Andy says you will have to remove the small chrome trim from around the lock, to do this you have to remove the glass from the door, with the glass removed you need to find the spring clip that holds the chrome part on.

If you try to remove it without pulling the spring clip back you will break the locating lugs, the chrome surround then becomes of no use, once the chrome surround as been removed the door handle will slide out, under the rubber protection you will fine the torx bolt holding the lock to the door be care as 9 times 10 they sheer off.

Once again photo's attached this a got to be the worst job that anyone can undertake on ours cars, having said that there is a member whom comes to the Nano meet (Les) whom as done several and I would say he is the best i have seen do this job.

Remember the photo's attached are just showing the spring with the handle on the car it is a little harder to find so say your hale Mary's first.

Mike Trident · 22nd April 2019, 13:22

I decided that as we have had a bit of a dry spell, it would be a good time to clean out as much of the dirt as possible from my sills and bottom of the wheel arches.
Followed up by a good coating of Bilt Hamber Dynax S50. Then fit my new jacking pads, as I only had one fitted originally.

Mike Trident · 22nd April 2019, 13:25

Totally forgot to mention, i fitted a new water pump to my FBH last week.

bendrick · 22nd April 2019, 14:21

Noticing only a very quick and poor squirt out of the windscreen washers, my first thought was that the pump had packed up. However as each time I pulled the lever to operate the washers there was an intitial quick limp spurt of washer fluid which indicated that the pump must be working to a certain extent even if not fully.

Having looked up the symptoms and associated threads on the search box here I plumped for a blocked filter.

Pulled back the wheel arch lining after removing the 3 securing screws pulled out the washer motor and removed the rubber filter which to my delight was 80% blocked with gloop that resembled a dark grey grease.

Washed out the filter replaced with motor back in and all washers back to firing on all cylinders.

Very simple if even I can do it successfully, took about 20 minutes which included fishing about for the right tools and screw bits. Must give credit to whoever put up photos to show what is to be expected when attempting to do this job, I'm afraid that I forgot to take note of who it was but thanks anyway.

P-Nut · 22nd April 2019, 17:03

Working on my custom intake manifold but unfortunately I never made it strong enough, snapped the damn thing releasing the part from the mold, ah well have to just learn from my mistake and try again, it's not a total loss, I can potentially use some of it to help me in the future.

21st April 2019, 21:35	#9472
trikey Premium Trader Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Devon Posts: 33,764 Thanks: 8,837 Thanked 14,831 Times in 8,030 Posts	On the odd occasion the door operating mechanism had detached, I always remove the handle mech from the door and refit the thing off the car, trying to do this job inside the door is an absolute nightmare. Id rather do a set of V6 belts than attempt to fit this little beggar inside the door. __________________ Lest we forget..

21st April 2019, 21:36	#9473
NickC Regular poster MG ZT Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Leeds Posts: 37 Thanks: 5 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	is there a how to on removing the door handle? __________________ My Vehicle DOB :- Thursday, 10th July 2003 @ 11:53:15 It was the 9,767th ZT to run off the production line, out of 18,894 It was the 2,923rd ZT 190 + to be made out of 4,023 It was the 285th ZT in Royal Blue (code: JFM) to be made out of 661 Royal Blue ZTs Cost When new with options = £27,785 Also born on this day... 146 75s 13 75 Tourers 104 MG TFs 108 ZRs 35 ZSs 45 ZTs 15 ZT-Ts

22nd April 2019, 13:22	#9477
Mike Trident Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDTi Saloon & Citroen C1 Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Oakenshaw, Near Bradford Posts: 1,622 Thanks: 385 Thanked 552 Times in 328 Posts	I decided that as we have had a bit of a dry spell, it would be a good time to clean out as much of the dirt as possible from my sills and bottom of the wheel arches. Followed up by a good coating of Bilt Hamber Dynax S50. Then fit my new jacking pads, as I only had one fitted originally. __________________ Rover 75 2.0 CDTi (131Ps) Conn SE Saloon. (Manual) 160 Remap, cruise control, electric window blind, temp gauge, Real walnut / ZT interior, FBH with GSM control. BORN Tuesday, 5th October 2004 @ 12:35:52 This vehicle was the 104,679th 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381 This vehicle was the 3,318th 75 CDT Connoisseur SE (135) to be made out of 4,744 This vehicle was the 12,440th 75 in Starlight Silver (code: MBB) to be made out of 14,280 Starlight Silver 75s

22nd April 2019, 13:25	#9478
Mike Trident Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDTi Saloon & Citroen C1 Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Oakenshaw, Near Bradford Posts: 1,622 Thanks: 385 Thanked 552 Times in 328 Posts	Totally forgot to mention, i fitted a new water pump to my FBH last week. __________________ Rover 75 2.0 CDTi (131Ps) Conn SE Saloon. (Manual) 160 Remap, cruise control, electric window blind, temp gauge, Real walnut / ZT interior, FBH with GSM control. BORN Tuesday, 5th October 2004 @ 12:35:52 This vehicle was the 104,679th 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381 This vehicle was the 3,318th 75 CDT Connoisseur SE (135) to be made out of 4,744 This vehicle was the 12,440th 75 in Starlight Silver (code: MBB) to be made out of 14,280 Starlight Silver 75s

22nd April 2019, 17:03	#9480
P-Nut Gets stuck in MG ZT 190+ Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: North Shields Posts: 561 Thanks: 143 Thanked 170 Times in 103 Posts	Working on my custom intake manifold but unfortunately I never made it strong enough, snapped the damn thing releasing the part from the mold, ah well have to just learn from my mistake and try again, it's not a total loss, I can potentially use some of it to help me in the future. __________________ Approved food eater

21st April 2019, 22:40	#9475
macafee2 This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon & Tourer Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Lincoln Posts: 14,912 Thanks: 1,630 Thanked 3,032 Times in 2,181 Posts	over the weekend removed front bumper so I could polish both head lights and fix a leak on the screen wash. Removed FBH and changed water pump and refitted as well as change PCB, gave car a good hoover as it had made some messy trips to the tip. Car could do with a wash macafee2

22nd April 2019, 14:21	#9479
bendrick Gets stuck in Ex CDT Auto Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: Barry Posts: 655 Thanks: 76 Thanked 266 Times in 155 Posts	Noticing only a very quick and poor squirt out of the windscreen washers, my first thought was that the pump had packed up. However as each time I pulled the lever to operate the washers there was an intitial quick limp spurt of washer fluid which indicated that the pump must be working to a certain extent even if not fully. Having looked up the symptoms and associated threads on the search box here I plumped for a blocked filter. Pulled back the wheel arch lining after removing the 3 securing screws pulled out the washer motor and removed the rubber filter which to my delight was 80% blocked with gloop that resembled a dark grey grease. Washed out the filter replaced with motor back in and all washers back to firing on all cylinders. Very simple if even I can do it successfully, took about 20 minutes which included fishing about for the right tools and screw bits. Must give credit to whoever put up photos to show what is to be expected when attempting to do this job, I'm afraid that I forgot to take note of who it was but thanks anyway.