1.8T engine cured!! - Page 4

podge · 2nd May 2009, 20:47

This is a very interesting thread, we use Hylomar at work in RR RB211 ( 747-400) engines....but it is of Aerospace Grade, now if this higher spec grade were used in the K series manufacter, I wonder if there would still be problems.Just from an enginering perspective I have allways thought this engine design very much "on the limit" and no allowance for error/wear etc.Now my old "B" series lump.....................

P.

kaiser · 7th May 2009, 00:23

You clever guys, you guessed it, didn't you:lol:
Just an update for all an sundry, the engine is fine, still not one drop of water added. The heater works, the temperature is fine, absolutely no ill effects whatsoever.

kaiser · 14th May 2009, 19:52

Glad to state that the engine is behaving 100%, no water lost at all, cooling fine, heater works.
The car is cured!!

I will from now on, provided I don't forget, update you monthly, or in case there is a change.

pab · 14th May 2009, 20:28

so,do you think we should all add a wonderweld to our cooling systems..

Gman2 · 14th May 2009, 20:34

I was really enthusiastic about this and mentioned it to my trusty mechanic but he was less so

His view was if you have a coolant loss, best locate the problem - but how much invasive work can a K series take

I'm still tempted mind.....

pab · 14th May 2009, 20:54

agree..should i take the chance on blocking the minute water passages on this head?

kaiser · 14th May 2009, 21:15

If you check your car daily, then check also the inside of the oil filler cap.
The moment you see traces of water here, on a hot engine, means that you get water in the oil.
I would have no hesitation whatsoever!! to add Wondarweld in this case. If you don't, you have only one other choice, and this is to rip out the engine and rebuilding it. This is really how simple it is!
To make matters even simpler, you are not causing an damage by adding the stuff, so if unsuccessful, you can still choose to repair.

The above is what I have done. The result has been absolute success, so far.
Maybe to put it differently, had I not done it, the engine would most likely have been damaged by now, almost 100% sure the turbo would have given up.

If you should add stuff permanently, who knows? I would, based upon what I have seen so far.

But keep on watching, I will keep you updated. 110000km, drives like new!

chris75 · 15th May 2009, 10:06

We also have a 416 K series runabout which has presented symptoms of rapid water loss and high pressure in the header tank , with steam from the exhaust. Following this thread and Kaiser's good news, i couldn't resist trying K-Seal at about £7 from Ebay. So far , after 1 week , we have lost no more water ! I will keep watching this , obviously , and if it works that will be all I do as the car is only valued at a few hundred pounds . If it doesn't last , then the head will come off and I will spend about £50 for a gasket kit on ebay . If i were to put it in a garage, they would want about £400 , and at that price I think i would be tempted to scrap the car .

kaiser · 15th May 2009, 13:39

So glad to hear it worked for you!
And to boot, this sounds like a full blown HGF, a much more difficult issue to sort out.
There will obviously be cases so far gone, that it will no longer help to add any stuff. It is thus of importance to get in there early, so a daily check of the oil filler cap, to check for water droplets, must be added to the daily water check.

If there are traces of water and water loss (not external water loss), add the stuff as soon as possible!

I really think this is the cure for the Rover k series engines, if caught early!

This should be worth some celebration, nes pas?

Phil · 15th May 2009, 14:37

I am impressed and very suprised, however I would be always wondering whether I should be taking the car on a long run and if it will get me back.

2nd May 2009, 20:47	#31
podge I really should get out more....... Rover 75 Tourer CDT CLUB SE Copper Red Mica Dec 01 ....now deceased....replaced by2003 Royal Blue T Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: North Warnborough, Hampshire Posts: 2,398 Thanks: 9 Thanked 69 Times in 20 Posts	This is a very interesting thread, we use Hylomar at work in RR RB211 ( 747-400) engines....but it is of Aerospace Grade, now if this higher spec grade were used in the K series manufacter, I wonder if there would still be problems.Just from an enginering perspective I have allways thought this engine design very much "on the limit" and no allowance for error/wear etc.Now my old "B" series lump.....................P. __________________ 01 75 CDT Club SE Tourer..."The Rover 75 is a British-built car to be proud of." B.M.Ws loss........OUR GAIN!!!!!!!! http://knowledgerush.com/wiki_image/...arp.300pix.jpg http://farm1.static.flickr.com/167/3...b847e1c5_m.jpg

15th May 2009, 10:06	#38
chris75 same car since 2005 2001 Rover 75 2.0 v6 Connoisseur Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ellesmere Port , Cheshire Posts: 3,811 Thanks: 379 Thanked 549 Times in 466 Posts	We also have a 416 K series runabout which has presented symptoms of rapid water loss and high pressure in the header tank , with steam from the exhaust. Following this thread and Kaiser's good news, i couldn't resist trying K-Seal at about £7 from Ebay. So far , after 1 week , we have lost no more water ! I will keep watching this , obviously , and if it works that will be all I do as the car is only valued at a few hundred pounds . If it doesn't last , then the head will come off and I will spend about £50 for a gasket kit on ebay . If i were to put it in a garage, they would want about £400 , and at that price I think i would be tempted to scrap the car . __________________ Who said it was simples ?

15th May 2009, 14:37	#40
Phil This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Connoisseur SE Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Wales Posts: 12,227 Thanks: 469 Thanked 523 Times in 241 Posts	I am impressed and very suprised, however I would be always wondering whether I should be taking the car on a long run and if it will get me back. __________________

7th May 2009, 00:23	#32
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	You clever guys, you guessed it, didn't you:lol: Just an update for all an sundry, the engine is fine, still not one drop of water added. The heater works, the temperature is fine, absolutely no ill effects whatsoever.

14th May 2009, 19:52	#33
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	Glad to state that the engine is behaving 100%, no water lost at all, cooling fine, heater works. The car is cured!! I will from now on, provided I don't forget, update you monthly, or in case there is a change.

14th May 2009, 20:28	#34
pab Banned MG ZT V6 190+ Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Leeds Posts: 33,223 Thanks: 41 Thanked 1,614 Times in 1,416 Posts	so,do you think we should all add a wonderweld to our cooling systems..

14th May 2009, 20:34	#35
Gman2 Posted a thing or two ZTT+ 1.8T, mgf 1.8 Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Warrington Posts: 1,550 Thanks: 28 Thanked 65 Times in 42 Posts	I was really enthusiastic about this and mentioned it to my trusty mechanic but he was less so His view was if you have a coolant loss, best locate the problem - but how much invasive work can a K series take I'm still tempted mind.....

14th May 2009, 20:54	#36
pab Banned MG ZT V6 190+ Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Leeds Posts: 33,223 Thanks: 41 Thanked 1,614 Times in 1,416 Posts	agree..should i take the chance on blocking the minute water passages on this head?

14th May 2009, 21:15	#37
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	If you check your car daily, then check also the inside of the oil filler cap. The moment you see traces of water here, on a hot engine, means that you get water in the oil. I would have no hesitation whatsoever!! to add Wondarweld in this case. If you don't, you have only one other choice, and this is to rip out the engine and rebuilding it. This is really how simple it is! To make matters even simpler, you are not causing an damage by adding the stuff, so if unsuccessful, you can still choose to repair. The above is what I have done. The result has been absolute success, so far. Maybe to put it differently, had I not done it, the engine would most likely have been damaged by now, almost 100% sure the turbo would have given up. If you should add stuff permanently, who knows? I would, based upon what I have seen so far. But keep on watching, I will keep you updated. 110000km, drives like new!

15th May 2009, 13:39	#39
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	So glad to hear it worked for you! And to boot, this sounds like a full blown HGF, a much more difficult issue to sort out. There will obviously be cases so far gone, that it will no longer help to add any stuff. It is thus of importance to get in there early, so a daily check of the oil filler cap, to check for water droplets, must be added to the daily water check. If there are traces of water and water loss (not external water loss), add the stuff as soon as possible! I really think this is the cure for the Rover k series engines, if caught early! This should be worth some celebration, nes pas?