1.8T engine cured!! - Page 5

kaiser · 15th May 2009, 15:30

That would just be in the beginning. You will quickly get used to it. You don't worry that the glass you drink from suddenly disintegrates, do you.?
Almost the same thing. Sodium silicate is like rock in its solid form, it wont go anywhere!
I think, to be honest, I would worry more about a thin bead of Hylomar, which has the consistency of chewing gum. That is what stands between you and a recovery truck in any ordinary Rover!
Quite funny, if it was not so sad!

geoffd · 15th May 2009, 19:46

Tried K seal in neighbours 416 two weeks ago it stopped water in oil situation within 5 miles !

soixante-quinze · 15th May 2009, 21:18

Hey Kaiser

Maybe its the hydrophobic properties of sodium silicate that's keeping your engine from leaking. When I lived in Jo'burg I worked for NuWorld Industries making household white goods including irons. We used to coat the upper surface of the soleplate of the irons with sodium silicate. It's the hydrophobic property of ss that instantly changes the water that drips from the tank (when you set it to steam mode) into steam. Also, I see Wiki reckon ss will last for up to two years as a gasket sealant.

kaiser · 16th May 2009, 04:15

Isn't it amazing, we are turning the whole club into chemical students!!

I am glad that you have taken the time to go and actually study what is going on!
As for using sodium silicate in irons, that is a field I know little about. As for turning water into steam, I know a bit. Using sodium silicate would have little to do with that, is my guess, as that process is determined by pressure and heat. I would rather suspect, that sodium silicate might have been used to seal any porosity in the metal used for the sole of the iron (if such were to exist), and also to be able to withstand the high temperatures you encounter there. Another possibility is if leads to an increase in the surface area, which would allow an increase in evaporation. But I admit, as said, that my knowledge of these things is limited to using the iron to flatten my shirts!

As for the longer term adequacy you can take that to equate that of glass, it is pretty much going to outlast the engine! Once the engine has rusted to dust, the silicate will still be there! It is only going to unlast (new word

) if erosion of the metal takes place, increasing a cavity, or if there is a mechanical break of the bond, for some reason.
The two years mentioned I would not worry about. Even if it was true, I would repeat the application if need be!
My guess at the moment is that we have club members sneaking out in the middle of the night, pouring this stuff in there with crossed fingers.

I am convinced as we gather experience, it will become standard routine quite universally accepted, and we will not think much of it. But, as someone else has said, it is difficult to make predictions, especially about the future!

As I can see a few persons are coming out of the woodwork, it appears we will have some cars under test. We shall quickly, or slowly as the case might be

, see how things develop.

In any case, I personally will maintain my rigid routine of a daily check off water, oil and oil under filler.!! These engines are never going to sneak up on me again!!!

kaiser · 23rd June 2009, 16:52

As promised, an update on the water in oil on my 1.8T.
The car is going strong!! Not a drop of water in the oil, but I did add water once during these last six weeks.
It was approximately one tenth of a cup, and only to bring the level up to MAX in the expansion tank. I suspect that the car tends to settle slightly below the MAX mark, but then there is so little in the tank that it is difficult to see if there is water in the bottom of the tank or just a film of moisture.
So I suspect I might have to continue adding a fraction of a cup about 4 times a year.
I can live with that!!:lol:

TurboZed · 16th July 2009, 00:12

Only one thing I'm concerned about (yes my 1.8T has started drinking water and theres mayo under the cap) is the water cooling of the turbo. Wont the k-seal slowly build un on the surface of the water jacket as it can get very hot if the turbo is working hard for a long period (towing up a mountain etc). Other than that the car is not moving until something is done to fix it as I don't want to risk a full blown HGF. Also can we leave K-seal in the engine or do we do what you did with your wonderweld and flush it out after 3 days?
Cheers
Jim

Gman2 · 16th July 2009, 17:58

Can't help re the water jacket question. However, according to the promo blurb, K-seal can be put into the engine as a preventive measure.

chris75 · 16th July 2009, 19:41

I recently had to take the head off a 1.6 K series which had previously had K-seal added . The coppery constituent all seemed to have settled around the outside of the liners where they fit into the alloy block .Probably not a bad place for it to live in terms of preventitive measures !

TurboZed · 16th July 2009, 19:53

Right, thanks for that guys, I'm going in! Lets face it, I've nothing to loose! The engine is scrap if this fails, its had two attempts at fixing with headgaskets and they have both failed to stop the waterloss.

kaiser · 17th July 2009, 00:26

I just want to give you an up-date. Everything is 100% on track. I consider the engine cured.

As for the poster with anxiety for the turbo. You might have a bit of the stuff lining the passage ways in hot areas, I simply don't know, but you will tend to get the stuff deposited, where you have low flow rates and high heat. That would typically mean narrow passages close to the combustion process.
And that is exactly what you want!
I can assure you, it was with a lot of circumspection that I added the stuff to my car, but as you say. Nothing to loose, everything to gain.
You will be surprised positively, I hope. As long as your head gasket is not the main culprit, I guess you will cure it. But let us know.
And, yes, I believe you can leave K-seal in the system, but phone the manufacturers and let us know!
Once in the system, get a nice clear road and give the car about 30 to 40 miles of running. That did it for me.

Good luck.

15th May 2009, 21:18	#43
soixante-quinze Avid contributor Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Kilcock Posts: 141 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post	Hey Kaiser Maybe its the hydrophobic properties of sodium silicate that's keeping your engine from leaking. When I lived in Jo'burg I worked for NuWorld Industries making household white goods including irons. We used to coat the upper surface of the soleplate of the irons with sodium silicate. It's the hydrophobic property of ss that instantly changes the water that drips from the tank (when you set it to steam mode) into steam. Also, I see Wiki reckon ss will last for up to two years as a gasket sealant. Last edited by soixante-quinze; 15th May 2009 at 21:28..

16th May 2009, 04:15	#44
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	Isn't it amazing, we are turning the whole club into chemical students!! I am glad that you have taken the time to go and actually study what is going on! As for using sodium silicate in irons, that is a field I know little about. As for turning water into steam, I know a bit. Using sodium silicate would have little to do with that, is my guess, as that process is determined by pressure and heat. I would rather suspect, that sodium silicate might have been used to seal any porosity in the metal used for the sole of the iron (if such were to exist), and also to be able to withstand the high temperatures you encounter there. Another possibility is if leads to an increase in the surface area, which would allow an increase in evaporation. But I admit, as said, that my knowledge of these things is limited to using the iron to flatten my shirts! As for the longer term adequacy you can take that to equate that of glass, it is pretty much going to outlast the engine! Once the engine has rusted to dust, the silicate will still be there! It is only going to unlast (new word) if erosion of the metal takes place, increasing a cavity, or if there is a mechanical break of the bond, for some reason. The two years mentioned I would not worry about. Even if it was true, I would repeat the application if need be! My guess at the moment is that we have club members sneaking out in the middle of the night, pouring this stuff in there with crossed fingers. I am convinced as we gather experience, it will become standard routine quite universally accepted, and we will not think much of it. But, as someone else has said, it is difficult to make predictions, especially about the future! As I can see a few persons are coming out of the woodwork, it appears we will have some cars under test. We shall quickly, or slowly as the case might be, see how things develop. In any case, I personally will maintain my rigid routine of a daily check off water, oil and oil under filler.!! These engines are never going to sneak up on me again!!! Last edited by kaiser; 16th May 2009 at 06:08..

16th July 2009, 00:12	#46
TurboZed Loves to post 75 saloon Join Date: May 2009 Location: Stafford Posts: 291 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Only one thing I'm concerned about (yes my 1.8T has started drinking water and theres mayo under the cap) is the water cooling of the turbo. Wont the k-seal slowly build un on the surface of the water jacket as it can get very hot if the turbo is working hard for a long period (towing up a mountain etc). Other than that the car is not moving until something is done to fix it as I don't want to risk a full blown HGF. Also can we leave K-seal in the engine or do we do what you did with your wonderweld and flush it out after 3 days? Cheers Jim __________________ Last edited by TurboZed; 16th July 2009 at 00:14..

16th July 2009, 19:41	#48
chris75 same car since 2005 2001 Rover 75 2.0 v6 Connoisseur Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ellesmere Port , Cheshire Posts: 3,811 Thanks: 379 Thanked 549 Times in 466 Posts	I recently had to take the head off a 1.6 K series which had previously had K-seal added . The coppery constituent all seemed to have settled around the outside of the liners where they fit into the alloy block .Probably not a bad place for it to live in terms of preventitive measures ! __________________ Who said it was simples ?

16th July 2009, 19:53	#49
TurboZed Loves to post 75 saloon Join Date: May 2009 Location: Stafford Posts: 291 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Right, thanks for that guys, I'm going in! Lets face it, I've nothing to loose! The engine is scrap if this fails, its had two attempts at fixing with headgaskets and they have both failed to stop the waterloss. __________________ Last edited by TurboZed; 16th July 2009 at 20:03..

15th May 2009, 15:30	#41
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	That would just be in the beginning. You will quickly get used to it. You don't worry that the glass you drink from suddenly disintegrates, do you.? Almost the same thing. Sodium silicate is like rock in its solid form, it wont go anywhere! I think, to be honest, I would worry more about a thin bead of Hylomar, which has the consistency of chewing gum. That is what stands between you and a recovery truck in any ordinary Rover! Quite funny, if it was not so sad!

15th May 2009, 19:46	#42
geoffd Avid contributor Ford Kuga Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Wakefield Posts: 172 Thanks: 215 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts	Tried K seal in neighbours 416 two weeks ago it stopped water in oil situation within 5 miles !

23rd June 2009, 16:52	#45
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	As promised, an update on the water in oil on my 1.8T. The car is going strong!! Not a drop of water in the oil, but I did add water once during these last six weeks. It was approximately one tenth of a cup, and only to bring the level up to MAX in the expansion tank. I suspect that the car tends to settle slightly below the MAX mark, but then there is so little in the tank that it is difficult to see if there is water in the bottom of the tank or just a film of moisture. So I suspect I might have to continue adding a fraction of a cup about 4 times a year. I can live with that!!:lol:

16th July 2009, 17:58	#47
Gman2 Posted a thing or two ZTT+ 1.8T, mgf 1.8 Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Warrington Posts: 1,550 Thanks: 28 Thanked 65 Times in 42 Posts	Can't help re the water jacket question. However, according to the promo blurb, K-seal can be put into the engine as a preventive measure.

17th July 2009, 00:26	#50
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	I just want to give you an up-date. Everything is 100% on track. I consider the engine cured. As for the poster with anxiety for the turbo. You might have a bit of the stuff lining the passage ways in hot areas, I simply don't know, but you will tend to get the stuff deposited, where you have low flow rates and high heat. That would typically mean narrow passages close to the combustion process. And that is exactly what you want! I can assure you, it was with a lot of circumspection that I added the stuff to my car, but as you say. Nothing to loose, everything to gain. You will be surprised positively, I hope. As long as your head gasket is not the main culprit, I guess you will cure it. But let us know. And, yes, I believe you can leave K-seal in the system, but phone the manufacturers and let us know! Once in the system, get a nice clear road and give the car about 30 to 40 miles of running. That did it for me. Good luck.