Anti roll bar won't go on (rear) - help asap please

Blink · 8th November 2019, 12:26

Can the ARB be fitted with no weight on the rear suspension?

I've loosely bolted the bar & U brackets to the car, and the droplinks to the upper arm brackets - and the holes at the ends of the bar will not reach the studs on the bottom end of the droplinks (they're about 1.5 inches apart). They might reach if the upper arm was moved up to its normal ride height (or they might not).

I've got the bar this way round - long straight on the LH, short straight on the RH.

Here's Rimmers diagram for reference. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001546

macafee2 · 8th November 2019, 12:51

I left my bolts lose so I could slide the anti roll bar left and right so I could get the drop links in. Leaving it lose I'm sure also allows it to swing down/up. I cant recall but I dont think I had my wheels on the ground when I assembled the anti roll bar but did when it came to tightening and torqueing up. Drop links are handed by the way but I don't think you can fit them the wrong way round. Short straight is to the off side.

Were there problems with upper arms and the posts for the drop links being in the wrong place?

macafee2

Blink · 8th November 2019, 13:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by macafee2

I left my bolts lose so I could slide the anti roll bar left and right so I could get the drop links in. Leaving it lose I'm sure also allows it to swing down.

That's what I've done - everything is loose and the bar swings up/down easily.

Quote:

Originally Posted by macafee2

I cant recall but I dont think I had my wheels on the ground when I assembled the anti roll bar but did when it came to tightening and torqueing up.

If I swing the bar up, the stud hole is not directly below the droplink mount on the upper arm - it's approx. 1.5" too far away to the rear. I'd need to take a pic to describe the problem better than that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by macafee2

Drop links are handed by the way but I don't think you can fit them the wrong way round. Short straight is to the off side.

Yes, I know the droplinks are handed. I've tried them both on the LH and only one is anywhere near correct (the other points in the wrong direction). I've also compared them to the old ones on the old bar.

Quote:

Originally Posted by macafee2

Were there problems with upper arms and the posts for the drop links being in the wrong place?

Yes (and no). The drain holes on the upper arms are too close to the edge of the spring cup. The isolators have to be modified so the cutouts line up with the holes. I'll try and find the thread on it.

Blink · 8th November 2019, 13:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blink

...... Yes (and no). The drain holes on the upper arms are too close to the edge of the spring cup. The isolators have to be modified so the cutouts line up with the holes. I'll try and find the thread on it.

Here it is - https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...=300184&page=2

Post 14 onwards.

Blink · 8th November 2019, 13:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blink

.... If I swing the bar up, the stud hole is not directly below the droplink mount on the upper arm - it's approx. 1.5" too far away to the rear. I'd need to take a pic to describe the problem better than that.

Here we are.

You can see that the ARB is touching the upper arm, preventing it from swinging up towards the droplink stud. And that's with the U bracket bolts nowhere near done up (there's still thread showing between the subframe and the U bracket).

If the upper arm was moved upwards, the hole in the ARB would be able to get closer to the stud - but I'm not sure it would be enough to close the gap completely.

Blink · 8th November 2019, 14:04

Pic below - new arm and old arm side by side.

I didn't actually measure them (should have) but I think distances A and B are the same on the new arm as they are on the old arm. In other words, the droplink bolt hole has not moved to the left or the right. If it had done, the end of the roll bar would definitely fail to line up with the droplink.

marinabrian · 8th November 2019, 14:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blink

Pic below - new arm and old arm side by side.

I didn't actually measure them (should have) but I think distances A and B are the same on the new arm as they are on the old arm. In other words, the droplink bolt hole has not moved to the left or the right. If it had done, the end of the roll bar would definitely fail to line up with the droplink.

Yes they're in the same place relative, I've been down this road before

Wait until the weight of the car is on it's wheel before refitting the drop links to the arb

clf · 8th November 2019, 14:52

Jack up the hubs whilst the car is still supported.

Sent from my SM-A600FN using Tapatalk

macafee2 · 8th November 2019, 15:37

combining with clf's reply, would just fitting the damper be enough?
Sorry I did not realise the damper was not fitted in my previous reply.
Do put the car on 4 wheels before torqueing up the bolts etc

macafee2

Comfortably Numb · 8th November 2019, 19:18

You can see from your picture that if the trailing arm and arb are pushed and rotated upwards, they will meet easily. With the hub on, you can simply jack them both into place, and refit the shocker bolt at the same time. It doesn't require the full weight of the car taking on the jack, so no danger of lifting it off stands.

8th November 2019, 12:26	#1
Blink Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2019 Location: Under the car Posts: 1,840 Thanks: 210 Thanked 244 Times in 221 Posts	Anti roll bar won't go on (rear) - help asap please Can the ARB be fitted with no weight on the rear suspension? I've loosely bolted the bar & U brackets to the car, and the droplinks to the upper arm brackets - and the holes at the ends of the bar will not reach the studs on the bottom end of the droplinks (they're about 1.5 inches apart). They might reach if the upper arm was moved up to its normal ride height (or they might not). I've got the bar this way round - long straight on the LH, short straight on the RH. Here's Rimmers diagram for reference. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001546 Last edited by Blink; 8th November 2019 at 12:28..

8th November 2019, 12:51	#2
macafee2 This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon & Tourer Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Lincoln Posts: 14,926 Thanks: 1,630 Thanked 3,032 Times in 2,181 Posts	I left my bolts lose so I could slide the anti roll bar left and right so I could get the drop links in. Leaving it lose I'm sure also allows it to swing down/up. I cant recall but I dont think I had my wheels on the ground when I assembled the anti roll bar but did when it came to tightening and torqueing up. Drop links are handed by the way but I don't think you can fit them the wrong way round. Short straight is to the off side. Were there problems with upper arms and the posts for the drop links being in the wrong place? macafee2 Last edited by macafee2; 8th November 2019 at 12:59..

8th November 2019, 14:04	#6
Blink Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2019 Location: Under the car Posts: 1,840 Thanks: 210 Thanked 244 Times in 221 Posts	Position of droplink bolt hole on upper arm Pic below - new arm and old arm side by side. I didn't actually measure them (should have) but I think distances A and B are the same on the new arm as they are on the old arm. In other words, the droplink bolt hole has not moved to the left or the right. If it had done, the end of the roll bar would definitely fail to line up with the droplink.

8th November 2019, 14:52	#8
clf This is my second home MG ZT CDTi Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: carrick Posts: 7,859 Thanks: 3,494 Thanked 2,657 Times in 1,973 Posts	Jack up the hubs whilst the car is still supported. Sent from my SM-A600FN using Tapatalk __________________ It is not gloss primer .............. it is duct tape silver!

8th November 2019, 15:37	#9
macafee2 This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon & Tourer Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Lincoln Posts: 14,926 Thanks: 1,630 Thanked 3,032 Times in 2,181 Posts	combining with clf's reply, would just fitting the damper be enough? Sorry I did not realise the damper was not fitted in my previous reply. Do put the car on 4 wheels before torqueing up the bolts etc macafee2

8th November 2019, 19:18	#10
Comfortably Numb Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Penrith Posts: 1,336 Thanks: 165 Thanked 303 Times in 241 Posts	You can see from your picture that if the trailing arm and arb are pushed and rotated upwards, they will meet easily. With the hub on, you can simply jack them both into place, and refit the shocker bolt at the same time. It doesn't require the full weight of the car taking on the jack, so no danger of lifting it off stands.