Virtual T4 Source Code available here

[Jamiewelch]

Originally Posted by scoubix

Hey Jamie, for those with a real T4 like me, would you mind sharing necessary bits of information such as :
- which kind of lead is needed for VT4? I have a VAG KLL one, modded to use with IPKChanger, would that do the trick ?
- do you need to run the VT4 software from a specific folder on the hard drive?
- all in all, the basic process to get this running when one already has all of the RDS software working on a laptop with a real T4 (T4-Lite USB version in my case)?

Since my T4 runs fine I'd just like to explore VT4 as an alternative if (when) my T4-Lite interface goes kaputt...

Thanks

As mentioned in my post, it is not my platform to support.

I also have a real T4, in fact I had 2. Just sold one of them.

I am not going into any detail on how to configure the application as it is not my application to support. I may know how to configure it, but that is not on me to write a guide.

You've told me multiple times on the Facebook groups that I am wrong and don't know these cars at all. You would rather see 260's scrapped rather than changing a few pins on the ABS pump and using one from a FWD car. It may not give 100% the same braking, but if it gives 95% and saves the car being scrapped why not do it?

All I can say is no off the shelf lead will work. And you need to modify T4 system files for it to work.

The amount of time I have offered electrical advice or knowledge to be shot down because I am not one of the "T4 guys" on here really was shocking. Just because I haven't been here from the start doesn't mean I have no knowledge, if anything I probably have more than most because I found it interesting and kept digging and figuring out how to do stuff. How many people can offer fully plug and play diesel ECUs that will auto pair to your EWS when you plug it in and will have the correct coding and VIN? There are various BMW parts that can be modified and coded to fit, such as you can flash a Z4 LCM to SW4.6, and that can be modified to work with a 75, giving auto lights, triple flash indicators and proper DRL support without any additional hardware bodged in.

But then again, I obviously know nothing and will continue to be pushed away. The atitude of various people in this club and on the Facebook pages is the reason I am stepping away from the scene.

[vitesse]

Bit sad to see your reaction. You received three posts in reply, one from Arctic, from me and then from scoubix (with whom you’ve had previous negative contact). So you intend to step away from the scene because of some vocal minority, while ignoring the majority that appreciate your assistance and expertise?

Just used the search function using your name, nothing negative came up, all were positive, thankful for your help/expertise.

In a previous post I used “have a word with Jamie Welch or one of the other T4 specialists”

Sad indeed, but thanks anyway for the assistance and expertise I have received from you in the past.

Mike

[scoubix]

Originally Posted by Jamiewelch

As mentioned in my post, it is not my platform to support.

I also have a real T4, in fact I had 2. Just sold one of them.

I am not going into any detail on how to configure the application as it is not my application to support. I may know how to configure it, but that is not on me to write a guide.

You've told me multiple times on the Facebook groups that I am wrong and don't know these cars at all. You would rather see 260's scrapped rather than changing a few pins on the ABS pump and using one from a FWD car. It may not give 100% the same braking, but if it gives 95% and saves the car being scrapped why not do it?

All I can say is no off the shelf lead will work. And you need to modify T4 system files for it to work.

The amount of time I have offered electrical advice or knowledge to be shot down because I am not one of the "T4 guys" on here really was shocking. Just because I haven't been here from the start doesn't mean I have no knowledge, if anything I probably have more than most because I found it interesting and kept digging and figuring out how to do stuff. How many people can offer fully plug and play diesel ECUs that will auto pair to your EWS when you plug it in and will have the correct coding and VIN? There are various BMW parts that can be modified and coded to fit, such as you can flash a Z4 LCM to SW4.6, and that can be modified to work with a 75, giving auto lights, triple flash indicators and proper DRL support without any additional hardware bodged in.

But then again, I obviously know nothing and will continue to be pushed away. The atitude of various people in this club and on the Facebook pages is the reason I am stepping away from the scene.

Well, don't know where that comes from, and I have no recollection of interacting with you on Facebook, I don't remember shooting you down on here either, but it seems anyway to be a habit of yours lately to complain about other people attitude towards you, just by a quick look at your recent posts, even going as far as interpreting other people posts to fill your narrative.

You may have contributed greatly to this community (and I say that with no disrespect, I'm not as active on here as I was many years ago), and for that, thank you, but that doesn't mean everything you do or recommend has to be agreed upon by everyone else. And I would stand by my initial comments that using a FWD ABS unit in a 260 is NOT the way to go, the braking systems being so different between FWD and RWD cars. For one, H-split on the 260s vs diagonally-split on the FWD cars. Recoding the unit so that the car thinks it's a genuine 260 modulator doesn't even start to mean it operates the way it should on those cars. Now you may disagree with that, and that's fine, but allow other people to think differently. No one is an "all-knowing" guru...

But if it's any consolation to you, I'm even more concerned by a certain individual, a "professional" MGR specialist well known in the scene, who would sell such recoded FWD ABS and charge a premium for ones with traction control, where he knows (or should know) perfectly well that traction control is in NO WAY related to the brakes on 260s (contrary to FWD cars)...thus charging a premium over a non-existant feature.

As for my initial question, and your answer to it, Phil-T4 releasing the source code of his program to the general public means everyone with the necessary skills can step forward to improve it, add features, or write documentation. That you wouldn't want to do it is perfectly understandable and respectable. But please, don't use your supposed lack of recognition as a justification for it. I'm sorry to say this but it makes you sound like a spoiled brat...

[Jamiewelch]

Originally Posted by scoubix

Well, don't know where that comes from, and I have no recollection of interacting with you on Facebook, I don't remember shooting you down on here either, but it seems anyway to be a habit of yours lately to complain about other people attitude towards you, just by a quick look at your recent posts, even going as far as interpreting other people posts to fill your narrative.

You may have contributed greatly to this community (and I say that with no disrespect, I'm not as active on here as I was many years ago), and for that, thank you, but that doesn't mean everything you do or recommend has to be agreed upon by everyone else. And I would stand by my initial comments that using a FWD ABS unit in a 260 is NOT the way to go, the braking systems being so different between FWD and RWD cars. For one, H-split on the 260s vs diagonally-split on the FWD cars. Recoding the unit so that the car thinks it's a genuine 260 modulator doesn't even start to mean it operates the way it should on those cars. Now you may disagree with that, and that's fine, but allow other people to think differently. No one is an "all-knowing" guru...

But if it's any consolation to you, I'm even more concerned by a certain individual, a "professional" MGR specialist well known in the scene, who would sell such recoded FWD ABS and charge a premium for ones with traction control, where he knows (or should know) perfectly well that traction control is in NO WAY related to the brakes on 260s (contrary to FWD cars)...thus charging a premium over a non-existant feature.

As for my initial question, and your answer to it, Phil-T4 releasing the source code of his program to the general public means everyone with the necessary skills can step forward to improve it, add features, or write documentation. That you wouldn't want to do it is perfectly understandable and respectable. But please, don't use your supposed lack of recognition as a justification for it. I'm sorry to say this but it makes you sound like a spoiled brat...

You have responded to my comments on electrical issues or modifications multiple times telling me that I am wrong, and that my advice should not be listened to.

Regarding the 260 ABS pump. What other solution have you got? I agree that fitting the proper pump would be best, but you can't buy them anymore, and any places that say they can repair them can't. The only other solution is to scrap the car? So that means, you are saying scrap the car rather than fitting another ABS pump from a FWD car. Which can then be reverted if someone finds stock of old pumps. The car doesn't care what pump is fitted. The traction control system is so outdated and pathetic on these cars I don't even know why it was fitted. The cars don't even have a steering angle sensor, so traction control is only kind of effective if going straight.

I do have the necessary skills to do work on the software, doesn't mean I have to, or even want to. I was asked by someone if I could get it working and I have, so I have uploaded that for everyone to use, they just need to sort the cable side out which requires a custom PCB.

Calling me a spoiled brat shows that you are what is the problem with the Rover scene, it has gone downhill is recent years and is now dying because of peoples attitudes. Everyone wants everything for free these days and doesn't want to contribute to peoples time. I have spend probably hundreds of hours tinkering with the electrical side of these cars because I found it interesting, just to be called a spoiled brat?

At least I can say I am honest and voice my actual opinions. I am always argued with every time I bring up the fact that the "160" remap on here that has been sold in the thousands is being massively mis sold. Yet they never provide proof of the numbers, just throw up old spreadsheets, or YouTube videos with people sat on a bonnet to hold a car onto a dyno (would you trust it is calibrated if they don't have means to hold a car down?). Most 131ps cars run around 120bhp on a dyno, and the "160" map typically give a 10bhp bump taking them to around 130, I have uploaded dyno graphs and proof before, but this gets shot down because I obviously know nothing and the people selling the maps only tell the truth and definitely don't exaggerate the claims to get another sale. They have been offered free dyno runs to put this to rest but they refuse. Marinabrian said that the "160" map couldn't be copied because it is encrypted and that was believed, and then this changed to if you copied it to another car it wouldn't give you the power. Please tell me how such a dumb ECU would be able to unencrypt data on the fly to run a car, it is not encrypted at all, or how the car would pick a different map to run on because it is in a different vehicle, it was just said to try and scared people off from reading the car, or maybe so they had an excuse when the 12% fuel increase would be found out. If people actually wanted me to outline the differences on here I can pull the map apart, but I doubt people would believe it. A lot of stuff that is said on here were lies that have been around for so long that people actually believe them now.

[boater]

Hi Jamie

We have never met but I am a regular reader and follower of the forum and find this conversation to be disappointing to say the least.

I know that you have helped other members many times and I am sure the club has benefitted from your input and knowledge over a long period of time.

It is such a shame to see a valued member feel as you obviously do and I would urge you to step back and rethink things for a while.

Hopefully a break may help and at some stage you may feel able to return and participate once again. The forum may not be perfect but it does provide a valuable resource for all 75/ZT owners and enthusiasts.

best wishes

Howard

[vdpuser]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but does anyone have the source code available? As the google drive link no longer works?
Also can anyone confirm which lead is required?

Thanks
Gareth

[WillyHeckaslike]

Jamie's post 7 contains a zip of the files minus the bits he removed to unlock the software. If that is not what you're after then maybe try to contact Phil (the OP) if no other member can assist.