Rover 75 Tourer - roof lining questions

[QuestionMark]

So does anyone know how to remove the washer fluid hose that runs through the roof of the boot and the top of the tailgate, to the jet?

And since my headlining is out anyway, how can I prevent the dreaded roof rattle? What are the causes and where are they located?

Cheers,
QuestionMark

[Duotone]

Originally Posted by QuestionMark

And since my headlining is out anyway, how can I prevent the dreaded roof rattle? What are the causes and where are they located?

Cheers,
QuestionMark

The rattle comes from the roof vibrating on the strengthening bars.

Secure the roof strengthening bars to the roof with silicone.

Gently separate the roof from the roof bars with wooden wedges and inject silicone between. You will have to be careful so as not to ding the roof from the inside.



Dave T

[andre372]

Originally Posted by QuestionMark

Hi guys,

I'm sorry I haven't been following up on the thread. I've been both busy and sick this past week. Anyway, yesterday I managed to get the headlining out! Thank you so much for your help!

This did indeed help, I really appreciate the effort!

I'm glad it helped. I added a few photos regarding the washer hose (and rear leaks) to the album.

Originally Posted by QuestionMark

I found the plug, mine was black as well (2002 model), and it was a son of a b*tch to get to. How on Earth is the A-pillar trim supposed to come off?? The metal clips that go into the pillar holes absolutely refused to come out! I had to completely destroy them with a screwdriver and a pair of pliers So now I'm worried that I won't be able to refit the trim properly. After all of that, I saw that the plug was tucked as far as possible into the corner of the windscreen - barely visible and impossible to reach with your hands. So I had to get creative with assorted tools to pull it out... Phew.

Mine's 2001 and also has the black plug.
I hope you didn't break the trims? They're actually easy to get off. The metal clips (3 (or 4?) per side) stay in the pillar while the trim has lugs that lock into the clips. Basically you start from the top end and pull the trim to the other side of the car to unlock the lugs and when all of them are free, lift the trim upwards to release from the dash where it is also secured with a single spring clip. Refitting is the reversal - once you push the lower end of the trim into the dash, align the lugs and just push until they click. I've removed/refitted them a dozen times without breaking anything.

Originally Posted by QuestionMark

I can relate. I've had ALL the trim in my boot (except the headlining) out for half a year now, trying to find leaks (granted, I've kept procrastinating the job). I've fixed two leaks already, and then there are these other two - and the outside water leak is playing games with me. It shows up when there's melting snow on the car's roof, when I use a water sprinkler, and occasionally when it rains. Other times when it rains it doesn't show up, nor does it show up if I hose down the car with a garden hose

The leaks are quite a pain, aren't they? I could go on endlessly about it...
It's pretty much the same with mine. When I want it to leak, it doesn't, but when I go through a car wash or when it rains heavily, it's leaking. You will find a few photos in the album from a time when it had been raining for a couple of days straight and there was 1cm of water in the left cubby hole.
To make it short, I've sealed some of the body seams which didn't make a difference. It's almost certainly the rear side windows in my case but I can't imagine how that's possible unless there are holes in the body panel underneath the window sealant. (It would be great if anyone could take a picture of tourer with the rear windows removed)
I've now finally used some Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure on it but I'm already too late this year as there are negative temperatures at night. You will find a photo in the album where this blue coloured captain tolley's is dripping at my usual leak point. This is taken 2 days after applying captain tolley's and after going through a car wash. It didn't reach this spot before car wash
I was thinking of having the rear windows re-glued but it was suggested to me to have spare windows available in case they couldn't remove the old ones in one piece.

Originally Posted by QuestionMark

I found that I even had to remove the B-pillar trims and front handles to gain enough access, and at that point I figured I might as well remove the entire thing.

You then probably found that the B-pillar trims are fixed in much the same way as A-pillar trims

Originally Posted by QuestionMark

Apparently the headlining had partially fused into the rear side window sealant, but I managed to carefully rip it off.

Now that you say it, I seem to remember that I had the same with mine.

Originally Posted by QuestionMark

I took out my roof rack and the bar/trim(?) underneath it in search for a leak myself, and there was no possible entrance for water at all as far as I could tell. It's all solid metal, and the holes which the bolts screw into are "enclosed" / they have a bottom - if you understand what I'm saying. I'm not 100% sure though, because there's a body joint in the back by the tailgate, and I can slightly recall somebady talking about them cracking up and leaking. It's no problem to take a look, but I'd be surprised if the leaks were there.

I don't have a sun roof, so I wouldn't know about that though.

Taking down the headlining wasn't that hard actually, if you have some common sense and know how to use a screwdriver For me, the worst part was the A-pillar trim panel and the connector behind it. If you have a Haynes it'll go a long way, and you can always ask for help! I'd suggest you give it a go!

Edit: If you do attempt to do it yourself, beware of the heated rear side window connector (seen by the blue box in andre372's photos). I didn't notice that one, and only luck made it disconnect without being damaged).

Edit 2: I can post some photos if that's of any interest.

Just a correction - the rear side windows aren't heated, it is/these are aerials.

Originally Posted by QuestionMark

I found out where the washer fluid comes from though, but I don't think I can fix it without removing the hose between the washer jet and the point where it goes into the roof (that's where it drips down). Do you know how I'd do that?

Originally Posted by QuestionMark

So does anyone know how to remove the washer fluid hose that runs through the roof of the boot and the top of the tailgate, to the jet?

And since my headlining is out anyway, how can I prevent the dreaded roof rattle? What are the causes and where are they located?

Cheers,
QuestionMark

Originally Posted by Duotone

The rattle comes from the roof vibrating on the strengthening bars.

Secure the roof strengthening bars to the roof with silicone.

Gently separate the roof from the roof bars with wooden wedges and inject silicone between. You will have to be careful so as not to ding the roof from the inside.

Dave T

I can indeed tell you how to replace the washer hose but what exactly would you want to know?
When the headlining is removed, it's a matter of releasing the rubber... can't find the word for it - the rubber piping in which the wires and washer hose run... from between the body and the tailgate and tailgate and tailgate glass. Then just replace a part of the hose. Be careful when removing the washer jet, the rubber grommet is probably very brittle and might break. That's what happened to me but I got a replacement from Dave (Duotone), thanks
The tailgate finisher will probably get in your way when you try to refit the rubber pipe (??) to the body and I hate to say it but you can't get it off without breaking it. Or perhaps you will manage without removing it. Fortunately, you can get a new one for £11 from Rimmers. I also bought and fitted 7 of THESE because it was a pig to get the broken off lugs out of the spring clips.

Regarding the roof rattle. On the same day when taking the pictures in the album, I did the roof bars and you can see from one of the pictures that I used ordinary silicone.
Now, 2 years later, you can see from the outside that the roof isn't smooth anymore (you can see where the bars are located).
When I had some work done on the car this summer, I was told by the garage that there is a special (probably simple PU) foam they use in places like this.
I don't know how much of a difference it would have really made but if I had the chance to do it again from scratch myself, I would use more professional means instead of silicone.