Engine/transmissiom rough 2000rpm

Germanlemon · 28th February 2012, 16:56

I have noticed in the last few days that my auto diesel 75 is not as smooth especially accelerating up to 2000rpm in top, in fact once or twice it got quite noisy. It does it in lower gears but not so bad. I'm taking it to have trasmisson fluid changed tomorrow, should I ask for diagnostic test as well? Any advice would be appreciated, thanks.

pab · 28th February 2012, 16:58

Thread moved to the technical help forum,redirect left in the old location.

Jules · 1st March 2012, 23:46

It is quite common for the Auto Cdt to shudder in lockup mode under certain throttle settings.

Even brand new ones suffered from it!!

Germanlemon · 2nd March 2012, 10:34

Thanks for your reply Jules. I have only noticed this in the last couple of weeks, it's when the car is already in lockup I think. The engine is perfectly smooth up to about 1800rpm then as I accelerate it goes rough and then smooths out again at 2000 rpm. Once or twice it seemed to "growl" it really worried me. The garage phoned this morning for some more info, I suggested they take it on a fast road (they are in the country 3-4 miles from a decent roasd) to check it out. I suppose it's just possible that changing the aut tranmission fluid will sort it.

Germanlemon · 2nd March 2012, 11:48

I have just had a call from the garage. They cannot pinpoint the problem and suggest I have a talk with the mechanic when I pick the car up. The receptionist told me that the diagnostics say that the airflow is outside the normal parameters, could this be the air filter, it was changed by the previous owner 5000 miles and 2 years ago.

Mike Noc · 2nd March 2012, 12:22

Could be the MAF - best to have another chat with the garage and see what they mean.

Mike

Germanlemon · 2nd March 2012, 12:34

Thanks Mike, I will dig aroud here on MAF faults and see if anything rings a bell.

Germanlemon · 3rd March 2012, 16:04

Apple MG have changed my auto box fluid and changed the brake fluid for a bit less than I expected, £128. Apparently they had to connect it to diagnostics to change the fluid, according to the mechanic it has to be at 40 degrees to change it. The readings fom the MAF are outside working parameters, low voltage at tickover he said. The engine is still not as smooth as it was when I first got the car.

Should I change the MAF, is it easy to do myself and where is the best place to get a genuine Bosch one.

Any advice would be appreciated.

James.uk · 3rd March 2012, 16:23

The MAF is under the lil plug to the left of the oil filler cap and under the cover. It should be a fairly simple job to change it..

As Jules said, my car isn't happy slogging along at 1900 revs ish and trying to accelerate either...

It is basically a torque related issue, the car has the power to do what you ask, but making the car pick up from low revs in top gear puts a heck of a load on the transmission train.

.. Just kick it down and relieve the stress is the quick answer..

...

Germanlemon · 3rd March 2012, 19:10

Thanks for your reply James. I understand what you say about putting a strain on the transmission but the car does not feel as smooth as it did before. I think it's time for a replacement MAF. If I disconnect the MAF what sort of difference will it make to how the car drives?

28th February 2012, 16:56	#1
Germanlemon Loves to post Rover 75 Connoisseur CDTi SE saloon Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Bridport Posts: 313 Thanks: 34 Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts	Engine/transmissiom rough 2000rpm I have noticed in the last few days that my auto diesel 75 is not as smooth especially accelerating up to 2000rpm in top, in fact once or twice it got quite noisy. It does it in lower gears but not so bad. I'm taking it to have trasmisson fluid changed tomorrow, should I ask for diagnostic test as well? Any advice would be appreciated, thanks.

1st March 2012, 23:46	#3
Jules This is my second home ZT 260 SE Twilight and 10 other 75 ZT's :O Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Conwy NORTH WALES Posts: 11,094 Thanks: 512 Thanked 1,116 Times in 763 Posts	It is quite common for the Auto Cdt to shudder in lockup mode under certain throttle settings. Even brand new ones suffered from it!! __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Newbies do now!! 1. Plenum drains..all 3 or 4 year dependent 2. Cooling fan..All speeds functioning 3. Bonnet cable divider block

28th February 2012, 16:58	#2
pab Banned MG ZT V6 190+ Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Leeds Posts: 33,223 Thanks: 41 Thanked 1,614 Times in 1,416 Posts	Thread moved to the technical help forum,redirect left in the old location.

2nd March 2012, 10:34	#4
Germanlemon Loves to post Rover 75 Connoisseur CDTi SE saloon Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Bridport Posts: 313 Thanks: 34 Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts	Thanks for your reply Jules. I have only noticed this in the last couple of weeks, it's when the car is already in lockup I think. The engine is perfectly smooth up to about 1800rpm then as I accelerate it goes rough and then smooths out again at 2000 rpm. Once or twice it seemed to "growl" it really worried me. The garage phoned this morning for some more info, I suggested they take it on a fast road (they are in the country 3-4 miles from a decent roasd) to check it out. I suppose it's just possible that changing the aut tranmission fluid will sort it.

2nd March 2012, 11:48	#5
Germanlemon Loves to post Rover 75 Connoisseur CDTi SE saloon Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Bridport Posts: 313 Thanks: 34 Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts	I have just had a call from the garage. They cannot pinpoint the problem and suggest I have a talk with the mechanic when I pick the car up. The receptionist told me that the diagnostics say that the airflow is outside the normal parameters, could this be the air filter, it was changed by the previous owner 5000 miles and 2 years ago.

2nd March 2012, 12:22	#6
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,565 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	Could be the MAF - best to have another chat with the garage and see what they mean. Mike

2nd March 2012, 12:34	#7
Germanlemon Loves to post Rover 75 Connoisseur CDTi SE saloon Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Bridport Posts: 313 Thanks: 34 Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts	Thanks Mike, I will dig aroud here on MAF faults and see if anything rings a bell.

3rd March 2012, 16:04	#8
Germanlemon Loves to post Rover 75 Connoisseur CDTi SE saloon Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Bridport Posts: 313 Thanks: 34 Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts	Apple MG have changed my auto box fluid and changed the brake fluid for a bit less than I expected, £128. Apparently they had to connect it to diagnostics to change the fluid, according to the mechanic it has to be at 40 degrees to change it. The readings fom the MAF are outside working parameters, low voltage at tickover he said. The engine is still not as smooth as it was when I first got the car. Should I change the MAF, is it easy to do myself and where is the best place to get a genuine Bosch one. Any advice would be appreciated.

3rd March 2012, 16:23	#9
James.uk Passed Away 2002 Pale Blue. Rover 75 CDTi Connoisseur auto. 170K miles Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Near the M67. Posts: 14,509 Thanks: 199 Thanked 585 Times in 397 Posts	The MAF is under the lil plug to the left of the oil filler cap and under the cover. It should be a fairly simple job to change it.. As Jules said, my car isn't happy slogging along at 1900 revs ish and trying to accelerate either... It is basically a torque related issue, the car has the power to do what you ask, but making the car pick up from low revs in top gear puts a heck of a load on the transmission train. .. Just kick it down and relieve the stress is the quick answer.. ...

3rd March 2012, 19:10	#10
Germanlemon Loves to post Rover 75 Connoisseur CDTi SE saloon Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Bridport Posts: 313 Thanks: 34 Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts	Thanks for your reply James. I understand what you say about putting a strain on the transmission but the car does not feel as smooth as it did before. I think it's time for a replacement MAF. If I disconnect the MAF what sort of difference will it make to how the car drives?