Stuck wheel bolts - Page 2

suzublu · 2nd April 2019, 20:53

I always copaslip wheel bolts & nearly every bolt I remove before refitting but, re stuck wheel bolts, one method, & I stress you do this at your own risk, is to refit all the other bolts just tight, then drive forward & backward a few times.

KWIL · 2nd April 2019, 21:00

I have only had alloy wheel to steel "sticking" was years ago when the company cars had their wheels "cleaned" with some of the products sold for whell cleaning which must have had some nasty chemicals in them!

Gigagator · 2nd April 2019, 21:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by T-Cut

As I commented earlier the use of a lubricant on wheel bolts has a significant effect on the torque setting. The MGR specified torque is for a 'dry' thread with no, or minimal lubrication. The effect of a fully lubed thread on the specified torque can be obtained from tables like this: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/t...ts-d_1693.html

The effect is surprising.

TC

Very interesting link T-Cut!
Am I reading that right... apply lubrication to the thread of a bolt and you should decrease the torque you apply to it?

Somehow I would’ve thought it would be the other way around!

clf · 2nd April 2019, 21:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gigagator

Very interesting link T-Cut!
Am I reading that right... apply lubrication to the thread of a bolt and you should decrease the torque you apply to it?

Somehow I would’ve thought it would be the other way around!

I believe that is the case, I always thought like you, but I imagine that with the grease in a thread, as it is tightened, the grease is compressed a little and adds pressure - maybe I am wrong on that?

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I have always added a little copper grease to all of my bolts, especially with alloy wheels on the taper. When fitting the bolts I drag a strip straight down, and it then spreads a little grease around the threads without overloading them (as I used to when I was younger

) - Its not failed me yet.

HarryM1BYT · 3rd April 2019, 07:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gigagator

Very interesting link T-Cut!
Am I reading that right... apply lubrication to the thread of a bolt and you should decrease the torque you apply to it?

Somehow I would’ve thought it would be the other way around!

That post is correct...

Torque is a measure of the effort needed to turn the bolt or nut, it doesn't measure the amount of 'squeeze' in pulling two surfaces together, or the tension in the bolt thread.

Grease the thread, and the torque required will be less for the same amount of 'squeeze' applied.

RoverP480 · 3rd April 2019, 07:43

That's why most cylinder head bolts are now torqued to yield, not just torqued up, as the clamp load was too variable . At the end of the day that's what is needed, clamp load, wheel to hub. I believe in the construction industry on large pipe flanges they are nipped up and then turned by a certain angle to apply the correct load.

Discofan · 3rd April 2019, 16:59

Replaced the cylinder head on my Discovery and have to use all new bolts, they were torque to certain figure, then degree tightening sequence there after - NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD- tight if I recall!
Same Disco I bought at 30000 miles witha a new set of Goodyear tyres fitted. I didnt have to remove any of the wheels until the front tyres needed changing again at about 60000 miles. What a job the tyre fitters then had getting the front wheels off! Broke one of their 1/2" drive breaker bars loosening the bolts then when they had all 5 bolts off they had to hammer the wheel repeatedly with a dead blow rubber sledge hammer thing, almost breaking it in the process. Dont know what numpty put the wheels on but I was so glad I hadnt got a puncture on a dark rainy night. Strangely when I took the rears off to check them later I had no such problem

Ive also used copperslip for decades without any problems on both wheel nuts and wheel bolts, torquing to the normal specified torque with seemingly no ill effects.

Mike Noc · 3rd April 2019, 17:25

I apply Copaslip to the alloy contact points with the hub as I have had a couple of wheels seize on, but just torque the wheel bolts up dry.

As they get removed regularly for servicing never had a problem undoing them.

Discofan · 3rd April 2019, 17:34

I think thats the case too, if you have them off reularly youre unlikely to experience the same problems. All our cars have the wheels off several times a year for proper cleaning, tyre rotating etc so never any other issues.

bikerdude666 · 3rd April 2019, 18:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by suzublu

I always copaslip wheel bolts & nearly every bolt I remove before refitting but, re stuck wheel bolts, one method, & I stress you do this at your own risk, is to refit all the other bolts just tight, then drive forward & backward a few times.

I agree, had to do it a few times on my wife’s car. Refitted the other bolts, and left them a bit loose, marked the stubborn bolt, then drove forward and backward on the drive for a minute. Stopped and checked the marked bolt, if it came loose then jack back up and remove, if still stubborn a little more forwards/backwards, and it eventually came loose.

I too always coppaslip the bolts a little, but just a very small amount, I smear a bit on the end of the bolt, then as I tighten it, it goes all along the thread. Never given the torque setting a thought.

2nd April 2019, 20:53	#11
suzublu This is my second home rover 75 1.8 vvc club se wedgwood blue Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Seaton Carew Posts: 26,918 Thanks: 65 Thanked 7,142 Times in 4,642 Posts	I always copaslip wheel bolts & nearly every bolt I remove before refitting but, re stuck wheel bolts, one method, & I stress you do this at your own risk, is to refit all the other bolts just tight, then drive forward & backward a few times.

2nd April 2019, 21:00	#12
KWIL Precise Rover 75 Tourer 2.5KV6 Connoisseur SE Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Fleet Posts: 2,954 Thanks: 630 Thanked 617 Times in 480 Posts	I have only had alloy wheel to steel "sticking" was years ago when the company cars had their wheels "cleaned" with some of the products sold for whell cleaning which must have had some nasty chemicals in them!

3rd April 2019, 07:43	#16
RoverP480 Gets stuck in None at the moment Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Hereford Posts: 501 Thanks: 1 Thanked 165 Times in 146 Posts	That's why most cylinder head bolts are now torqued to yield, not just torqued up, as the clamp load was too variable . At the end of the day that's what is needed, clamp load, wheel to hub. I believe in the construction industry on large pipe flanges they are nipped up and then turned by a certain angle to apply the correct load.

3rd April 2019, 16:59	#17
Discofan Loves to post (Land)Rover Freelander 2 Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Stuck in the 1980's Posts: 477 Thanks: 118 Thanked 135 Times in 94 Posts	Replaced the cylinder head on my Discovery and have to use all new bolts, they were torque to certain figure, then degree tightening sequence there after - NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD- tight if I recall! Same Disco I bought at 30000 miles witha a new set of Goodyear tyres fitted. I didnt have to remove any of the wheels until the front tyres needed changing again at about 60000 miles. What a job the tyre fitters then had getting the front wheels off! Broke one of their 1/2" drive breaker bars loosening the bolts then when they had all 5 bolts off they had to hammer the wheel repeatedly with a dead blow rubber sledge hammer thing, almost breaking it in the process. Dont know what numpty put the wheels on but I was so glad I hadnt got a puncture on a dark rainy night. Strangely when I took the rears off to check them later I had no such problem Ive also used copperslip for decades without any problems on both wheel nuts and wheel bolts, torquing to the normal specified torque with seemingly no ill effects.

3rd April 2019, 17:25	#18
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,547 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	I apply Copaslip to the alloy contact points with the hub as I have had a couple of wheels seize on, but just torque the wheel bolts up dry. As they get removed regularly for servicing never had a problem undoing them.

3rd April 2019, 17:34	#19
Discofan Loves to post (Land)Rover Freelander 2 Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Stuck in the 1980's Posts: 477 Thanks: 118 Thanked 135 Times in 94 Posts	I think thats the case too, if you have them off reularly youre unlikely to experience the same problems. All our cars have the wheels off several times a year for proper cleaning, tyre rotating etc so never any other issues.