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Old 3rd March 2020, 10:12   #21
Johnny2R
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Originally Posted by Arctic View Post
Hi John.
In your case it may be better for you to remove the front bumper, and the crash bar, a bit more work 45 minutes maybe first time.
Whenever I read something like this, I always have to make a mental time adjustment, as I am, shall we say, not the world's greatest car mechanic. You say 45 minutes, so I am going to assume 2 hours for me...
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Old 3rd March 2020, 20:25   #22
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Whenever I read something like this, I always have to make a mental time adjustment, as I am, shall we say, not the world's greatest car mechanic. You say 45 minutes, so I am going to assume 2 hours for me...
Really it's just a matter of a number of screws.

The terrifying bit is when you get hold of each side of the bumper and give it a good tug.---

First time 25 minutes. The second time 15.---


Do Not try and remove the bib screws on the lower edge of the bumper, leave them well alone and undo the 4 under tray screws instead.




9 x cross head screws across the top of the slam panel.
2 x 10 mm screws in the leading edge of the wheel arch.
2 x self tappers on the return edge of the wheel arch liner.
4 x 1/4 turn fixings on the under tray.
6 x self tappers on the two triangular brake ducts.

A sharp tug on each side to unclip the bumper from the wing.

Then unplug the indicator - fog light loom on the nearside chassis leg.
Unclip the power wash hose (if fitted) on the off side.
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Best with help to lower it to the ground or put something soft on the ground just under and in front of the bumper.

Last edited by COLVERT; 3rd March 2020 at 20:29..
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Old 4th March 2020, 12:51   #23
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Both O-rings are still on the hose, although the one nearer the end is seated in a slight groove which isn't continuous, meaning it protrudes slightly in one or two places. I can't remember whether this is how it should be.

You have the lower ring in the wrong 'groove'. The correct location is on the very end of the plastic elbow seen in this image from Jules' How To.




It's a pretty poor design, assuming MGR always intended using two rings (which I personally doubt). The end/lower ring really should have an additional retaining wall to prevent it dropping off. Many OEM rings end up in the bottom of the intercooler for this reason.


Jules' suggestion for reinforcing the elbow-intercooler joint is here: https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...ad.php?t=21258


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Old 4th March 2020, 14:41   #24
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Thanks, yes, I figured that out after looking it rather more closely. Nice, clear pic there. In my case it was the end/lower ring which was mislocated.

I've taken everything apart and put it back together again, and pushed the bend in as hard as I can, but still didn't really get a tell-tale clunk, which is frustrating. Still, I cannot feel the upper O-ring so it must be pushed within the intercooler, there is no sense of movement, nothing happens when I pull up on the bend reasonably firmly (but not so firmly as to pull it out), and the fixing on the bracket lines up with the fixing point on the radiator, so I assume it is in fact properly in place.

As to holding it in place, I've had to come up with a makeshift solution. I was able to insert the bolt, but there was no way I could get a nut into the back of the mounting bracket. So what I've done is used a wide cable tie over the top of the bolt, so the bolt is resisting any up and down motion, but being prevented (I hope) from wiggling itself loose by the cable tie. Might try Jules' idea if this doesn't work.

Hopefully a test drive later!
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Old 4th March 2020, 14:52   #25
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Originally Posted by Johnny2R View Post
Thanks, yes, I figured that out after looking it rather more closely. Nice, clear pic there. In my case it was the end/lower ring which was mislocated.

I've taken everything apart and put it back together again, and pushed the bend in as hard as I can, but still didn't really get a tell-tale clunk, which is frustrating. Still, I cannot feel the upper O-ring so it must be pushed within the intercooler, there is no sense of movement, nothing happens when I pull up on the bend reasonably firmly (but not so firmly as to pull it out), and the
Quote:
fixing on the bracket lines up with the fixing point on the radiator, so I assume it is in fact properly in place.

As to holding it in place, I've had to come up with a makeshift solution. I was able to insert the bolt, but there was no way I could get a nut into the back of the mounting bracket
. So what I've done is used a wide cable tie over the top of the bolt, so the bolt is resisting any up and down motion, but being prevented (I hope) from wiggling itself loose by the cable tie. Might try Jules' idea if this doesn't work.

Hopefully a test drive later!
The fixing bracket should have a 10mm nut inserted into so the bolt holds it tight.
1

2


This is/was my three Viton O-rings modification on the bend , the little bridges are removed to allow the centre O-ring to fit perfectly.
3
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Old 4th March 2020, 14:57   #26
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The fixing bracket should have a 10mm nut inserted into so the bolt holds it tight.
Should, but doesn't in fact. Must have fallen out at some point.
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Old 4th March 2020, 15:04   #27
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Should, but doesn't in fact. Must have fallen out at some point.
You can re-instate it any 10mm nut will fit into the space
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Old 4th March 2020, 17:35   #28
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Sure, but how? I can only access that fixing bracket from the engine side - I can't reach down the front and hold the nut in place. Maybe there's some tool I don't have which could help me with this? Guess I may just have to take that bumper off...

Last edited by Johnny2R; 4th March 2020 at 18:11..
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Old 4th March 2020, 20:22   #29
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Sure, but how? I can only access that fixing bracket from the engine side - I can't reach down the front and hold the nut in place. Maybe there's some tool I don't have which could help me with this? Guess I may just have to take that bumper off...
Hi John.
I know you may not want to do this again but you can fit the 10mm nut by removing the intercooler hose and bend.

To help with more access remove the 8mm bolt holding the header tank in place.
1

Lift it off the two lugs holding it to the rad.
2

Lower it down onto the coolant pipes.
3

Undo the hose to the EGR.
4

Undo the bolt in your case the cable tie.
5

Pull out the hose with the bend attached.
6

You now should have enough room to insert the 10mm nut in its recess on the bracket to help or aid you pop a little bit of blue tack on the nut or in the recess.
7

Once you have it in place you can then refit the bend on it's own with out the hose attached, pushing down firmly making sure the fixing lug is the right side of the bracket, you should hear a thud as it seats home properly.
8

Now fit the bolt which holds the bend.
9

The intercooler hose can now be fitted to the bend & EGR turn the clip around on the hose so a long screw driver can be used at an angle to tighten it, removing the light protective cover will help also.
10

Hopefully this should get you sorted out once and for all
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Old 4th March 2020, 22:51   #30
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Originally Posted by Johnny2R View Post
Sure, but how? I can only access that fixing bracket from the engine side - I can't reach down the front and hold the nut in place. Maybe there's some tool I don't have which could help me with this? Guess I may just have to take that bumper off...
Bumper off ??

Well I've given you some detailed info earlier on in case you missed it.----Thata way.---Lol.
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