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27th March 2020, 22:18 | #11 | |
Gets stuck in
MG ZT 190 SE Join Date: Oct 2017
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Quote:
I know some people slather the threads in grease, but I've always given the threads a clean with WD-40 or similar and then just give them the merest wipe of thin oil or Copper grease before refitting. I always use a torque wrench as well. I've had cars where i've struggled to get wheel nuts off and I had a wheel changed on my bus and the fitter put the nuts on with a 1" air gun and then checked with a torque wrench, it may well have clicked at 400 lbf/ft but in actual fact were probably far above that, such that it took a 6' scaffold bar to loosen them off before I retorqued them correctly. |
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28th March 2020, 08:24 | #12 |
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Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009
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I put Copaslip on the contact points between the hub and wheel when fitting alloys, and torque the bolts up dry - never had a problem.
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28th March 2020, 09:08 | #13 |
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I prefer "Corrosion Block Grease" for the hub to alloy face.
http://www.acf-50.co.uk/corrosion_block.htm It's the galvanic corrosion between the 2 different metals that you're stopping. And yes, I have had one well and truly fused together, along with stupidly tight wheel bolts - on a neighbours SAAB. He wasn't mechanically minded at all and "the garage did it" which was fine until the puncture....... . Andy |
28th March 2020, 10:31 | #14 |
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Looks like good stuff Andy, but Copaslip does the job and my last tin lasted thirty odd years. Only recently bought a new one.
At current usage it should keep me going till I'm 92, so I'm not splashing out on anything else. |
28th March 2020, 10:36 | #15 |
Loves to post
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Thank you for every-ones help with this. So giving it a bit of thought I will use some cooper ease between the hub and wheel when fitting my alloys and then torque the bolt to 125Nm. I will the lossen the bolts ever 3 month and torgue again to 125Nm.
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28th March 2020, 12:02 | #16 | |
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macafee2 |
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28th March 2020, 12:30 | #17 | |
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TC |
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28th March 2020, 16:14 | #18 |
Been absent for a while…
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The majority of manufacturers say not to lubricate wheel bolts / studs.
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28th March 2020, 16:28 | #19 |
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The way I do it is to smear a thin layer onto the taper of the bolt head, just enough to 'tint' it, then wipe the residue straight down the bolt. The bolt will be nearly dry, and will (hopefully) smear just enough on the threads to stop them seizing. Between the hub and wheel too, a light smear, too much and it will get flung around the wheel and possibly the disc too.
Never had a wheel stick since doing this. Sent from my SM-A600FN using Tapatalk
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28th March 2020, 19:50 | #20 |
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I guess oiled means using oil whereas lubricated could mean using quite a variety of friction reducing things.---
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