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Old 27th March 2020, 22:18   #11
kelvo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macafee2 View Post
this I understand
Note that if torque specified for a dry or slightly oiled bolt torque is applied to a lubricated bolt - the bolt may overload and break.

this I don't
When a bolt is lubricated - less torque is required to achieve bolt axial load or tension. Reduction of torques for lubricated vs. dry bolts are indicated in the table below

macafee2
The thought behind it that although you torque the bolt up to say 125Nm the actual torque on the bolt may be a lot higher than that, so in the case of using Copperslip on wheel bolts means you are more likely to damage them to overtighten them and in extreme cases could snap than you are of them coming loose.

I know some people slather the threads in grease, but I've always given the threads a clean with WD-40 or similar and then just give them the merest wipe of thin oil or Copper grease before refitting. I always use a torque wrench as well.

I've had cars where i've struggled to get wheel nuts off and I had a wheel changed on my bus and the fitter put the nuts on with a 1" air gun and then checked with a torque wrench, it may well have clicked at 400 lbf/ft but in actual fact were probably far above that, such that it took a 6' scaffold bar to loosen them off before I retorqued them correctly.
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Old 28th March 2020, 08:24   #12
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I put Copaslip on the contact points between the hub and wheel when fitting alloys, and torque the bolts up dry - never had a problem.
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Old 28th March 2020, 09:08   #13
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I prefer "Corrosion Block Grease" for the hub to alloy face.

http://www.acf-50.co.uk/corrosion_block.htm

It's the galvanic corrosion between the 2 different metals that you're stopping. And yes, I have had one well and truly fused together, along with stupidly tight wheel bolts - on a neighbours SAAB. He wasn't mechanically minded at all and "the garage did it" which was fine until the puncture....... .

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Old 28th March 2020, 10:31   #14
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Looks like good stuff Andy, but Copaslip does the job and my last tin lasted thirty odd years. Only recently bought a new one.

At current usage it should keep me going till I'm 92, so I'm not splashing out on anything else.
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Old 28th March 2020, 10:36   #15
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Thank you for every-ones help with this. So giving it a bit of thought I will use some cooper ease between the hub and wheel when fitting my alloys and then torque the bolt to 125Nm. I will the lossen the bolts ever 3 month and torgue again to 125Nm.
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Old 28th March 2020, 12:02   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gren 24 View Post
Thank you for every-ones help with this. So giving it a bit of thought I will use some cooper ease between the hub and wheel when fitting my alloys and then torque the bolt to 125Nm. I will the lossen the bolts ever 3 month and torgue again to 125Nm.
I don't think there is a need to loosen and re-tighten

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Old 28th March 2020, 12:30   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macafee2 View Post
This I understand
Note that if torque specified for a dry or slightly oiled bolt torque is applied to a lubricated bolt - the bolt may overload and break.
This I don't
When a bolt is lubricated - less torque is required to achieve bolt axial load or tension. Reduction of torques for lubricated vs. dry bolts are indicated in the table below
The question the article raises in my mind is what's the difference in real life practical terms, between a 'slightly oiled' bolt and a 'lubricated' bolt? Does a smear of Coppaslip make a bolt 'slightly oiled' or would it be 'lubricated'?


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Old 28th March 2020, 16:14   #18
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The majority of manufacturers say not to lubricate wheel bolts / studs.
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Old 28th March 2020, 16:28   #19
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The way I do it is to smear a thin layer onto the taper of the bolt head, just enough to 'tint' it, then wipe the residue straight down the bolt. The bolt will be nearly dry, and will (hopefully) smear just enough on the threads to stop them seizing. Between the hub and wheel too, a light smear, too much and it will get flung around the wheel and possibly the disc too.

Never had a wheel stick since doing this.

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Old 28th March 2020, 19:50   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Cut View Post
The question the article raises in my mind is what's the difference in real life practical terms, between a 'slightly oiled' bolt and a 'lubricated' bolt? Does a smear of Coppaslip make a bolt 'slightly oiled' or would it be 'lubricated'?


TC
I guess oiled means using oil whereas lubricated could mean using quite a variety of friction reducing things.---
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