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13th October 2016, 13:11 | #1 |
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MG TF questions
Hi all,
I've greatly enjoyed my 75 Connie SE CDT over the last 2 1/2 years but i'm thinking of moving on to an MG TF simply because I find the 75 a bit too comfortable and not engaging enough for me and would love a bit of top-down driving in the spring/summer. There's also a few things wrong with my 75 that would take more time for me to fix than I have at the moment. I know many on here have or have had MGFs/TFs so I'd like to ask a few questions: 1) Which one to go for? I've been mainly looking at TF 135s at the moment because I've some experience with a non-VVC K-series, is there much difference maintenance-wise, and is it worth sacrificing some low-down torque for bigger brakes and increase high-end power of the 160? 2) I'm 6ft and change, will I be able to sit comfortably inside with the roof up? 3) Are there any particular things to look out for when buying? 4) What's it like in winter with just the softop? Hard-top would have to come at a later date as I want to spend my whole budget to get as good a car as I can afford 5) Anyone know of any good ones for sale in the region of £1000? I had a look at one last weekend for £600 and was slightly disappointed, rust on the air intakes, above the windscreen and behind the boot badge, small rip in roof, couple of pieces of interior trim missing, boot and door locks changed but not ignition so 2 different keys, front bumper mounted incorrectly leaving an uneven gap, these things made me a bit uneasy so I walked away, am I asking too much at that sort of price point? |
13th October 2016, 13:41 | #2 |
I really should get out more.......
Mercedes C Class CDI estate (2003) Join Date: Sep 2012
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For a start TF's rust more than the earlier MGF's it seems.. The front sub frame mounts especially on the TF yet the MHF ones seems to last forever. Now IMHO the hard top is a waste of time and space and it seems most owner never use them. Swapping to using the hard top is not as simple as fitting the top often then the windows need adjusting whch can be a real ball-ache job.
The std soft top is quite warm and yes I happen to drive an MGF all year round as well as the 75 . In fact until recently I had 3 MGF's sold the 97 MPi in Tahiti Blue last month and it looks like will be selling the 99 MGF 75th Anniversary soon. The heaters with a cooling system in fine fettle are great in the MGF's . [IMG][/IMG] The 75th and Blue together on the front. This id "Elsie" my 97 MGF VVC:- she is in need of a bit of surgary for rusting at the rear of the sills and around the wheel arches. Things to watch out for are cooling system problems the MGF's radiators rust after a time and start to leak:- That was "Elsie's" radiator when she arrived. The listing sadi losign water suspect head gasket..................... leaking from the front when egine is not in the front yet is was head gasket???? Typical garage diagnosis with an MG-Rover car . Check the rear calipers and hand brake operation and check for good tyres as these cars are particular about tyres and the wrong oens can make a nice car horrid to drive ............................... dangerous even. .......................... Oh yes and try an MGF as they are miles better than the TF Now as for your height the later MGF's (MY2000) spech have slightly lowered seats often called the Mk2 MGF which might suit you better but the only way to tell if you fit comfortably is try one out!
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Classic SE CDT sadly lost in a severe collision. |
13th October 2016, 13:51 | #3 |
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I've seen something about some replacement springs for the seats that lower them slightly too which I will probably end up investing in, lovely looking cars but I prefer the front end of the TF.
Am I allowed to link to other places (ie. Gumtree?) as there's a nice looking TF for sale as well as a bargain bucket Spares/repairs MGF that I'd love to get your opinion on. Might end up with 2 of them! HGF and reliability modifications aren't something I'm afraid of as I'm confident I can manage to do the work myself, but rust restoration and welding work is beyond me. |
13th October 2016, 14:28 | #4 |
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I have a couple and had a couple of MGF's. I personally prefer the TF mainly for the looks. The one we have on the road is in Typoon and mainly used by my wife. She loves it as do I.
Always a giggle to drive and has been very reliable. They can be picked up quite cheap also. We have a much more expensive limited edition convertible (crossfire SRT-6) that is amazing and lightning quick and does everything very well but honestly I prefer the TF as does my wife and it is the one car she would never let me sell.... Rust seems to be an issue coming up but there are plenty of New LE500 and TF new spares around from the recent production at longbridge so if you were going to get one and get it right, now would be a good time. |
13th October 2016, 15:36 | #5 |
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Plezier has lots ther but a bit more here to look into...
http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group1/info/mgf_buying.htm |
13th October 2016, 19:04 | #6 | |
I really should get out more.......
Mercedes C Class CDI estate (2003) Join Date: Sep 2012
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Quote:
Oh yes the VVC engine apart from the extra belt and VVC mech is the same for servicing as the MPi engine. Use a good quality oil loads of VVC owners seem to get on well with Magnatec oil.
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Classic SE CDT sadly lost in a severe collision. |
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13th October 2016, 19:30 | #7 |
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I'm a lanky 6'5" and I love my MGF! It isn't leg room that is an issue for me - the seat goes far enough back - but I will admit that the steering wheel is a bit low and means you have to drive with legs splayed a bit. The wheel does adjust up and down in the usual manner but doesn't quite go up enough for an ideal seating position - for me. But then my legs are longer than most. Most people will find it quite comfortable. And it doesn't stop me driving the little minx....great cars and great value.
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13th October 2016, 19:30 | #8 |
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I also prefer the looks of the F to the TF, it's just personal choice I guess
I'm 6'-1" and find there's more than enough headroom with the hood up, and even more with it down Loads of info out there but, just to add to what others have said, check boot floor under carpet liner for rust. The boot seals can leak and you end up with a pond. Underfloor coolant pipes rot from inside out, stainless replacements are available if it's not already been done. Misting of headlamps can cause MOT fail and can be quite expensive to replace. I love mine and use it all year round, never bothered with a hard top because if I can't set off somewhere with the hood down, I go in a 'normal' car. If we get caught out by rain when we're out then the hood goes up until it stops raining There's a few for sale on this Farcebook page https://www.facebook.com/groups/3832...?ref=bookmarks Here's mine, any excuse to post a pic
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Paul 2016 MINI Cooper S 210 : 2000 Rover 75 CDT Classic SE : 2009 Freelander 2 GS : 2000 Mini Cooper Sport : 1986 Mini Mayfair : 1980 Mini Pickup : 1971 Mini Cooper S |
13th October 2016, 20:24 | #9 |
This is my second home
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13th October 2016, 21:28 | #10 |
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Look out for rust around the wheel arches and boot. The HGF issue is always there whether its the 135 or the VVC. Once its done with the upgraded head there shouldn't be a problem though. Ive had my 135 in Trophy Blue since 2011. Upgraded the head gasket, new cooling system including new coolant pipes and radiator. New SPAX adjustable shocks, new discs and pads all round and just put 4 new TOYO proxes on her. Drives great. loads of room for a 6+ footer like me and handles great. Bodywork perfect-garaged since birth!
I don't use mine as much now the grand kids are here- its for sale at the right price PM me if interested Cheers Stuart |
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