V6 2 speed fan not working

[thanos.m]

Originally Posted by SD1too

Is your refrigerant charge low?

Simon

Hi Simon.

Not it is not I disconnected the battery reconnected it started the car and AC compressor kicked back in the AC was ice cold but after a couple of mins the AC compressor turned back off and would not engage again I'm wondering if this is a fail safe since the fan isn't working ?

I also thought that brushes weren't a problem on the 2 speed ?

[COLVERT]

Probably a fail safe.--Arctic will know.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by SD1too

Is your refrigerant charge low?

Originally Posted by thanos.m

Not it is not ... after a couple of mins the AC compressor turned back off and would not engage again I'm wondering if this is a fail safe since the fan isn't working ?

Hi Thanos,

The ECM has no way of knowing that the radiator/air con. condenser fan has failed so no, it won't be a fail safe feature directly for that reason. However the trinary switch will disable the compressor if the refrigerant pressure is too low or too high. The pressure can reach the upper limit if the fan isn't working at all.

As your compressor initially engaged that rules out the possibility of low refrigerant charge. From what you've told us in post no. 8 it sounds as if you have an intermittent electrical connection somewhere in the fan control circuit. I can help you trace that if you have a multimeter and don't mind removing the bumper again for access to the control box.

Simon

[thanos.m]

Hi Simon,

That's not a problem I can take the bumper back off and yes I do have a multimeter. One more thing to add is I can feel the yellow relay marked with a fan on the fuse box getting clicking on and getting warm.

Many thanks
Thanos

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by thanos.m

... I can feel the yellow relay marked with a fan on the fuse box getting clicking on and getting warm.

That's the blower motor relay; nothing to do with the radiator fan.

Originally Posted by thanos.m

I plugged toaf back in and I tried to actuate the fan I could hear both relays low and high speed relays kick on ...

In the control box you should have a small and a LARGE relay. We're interested in the thick wires to those relays. The LARGE relay should have two thick black wires together on one terminal whereas the other terminal has only one thick black wire. Is that what you see?

If yes, place your red meter probe on the terminal with one thick black wire and your black meter probe to earth. Do you see 12v?

If yes, move the red meter probe to the terminal on the small relay with the purple wire. Do you also see 12v here?

These supplies are direct from the battery so no need to turn on the ignition.

Simon

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by SD1too

That's the blower motor relay; nothing to do with the radiator fan.

A photo to combine with the details above.

1

I have a feeling it's the resistor.

[thanos.m]

Originally Posted by SD1too

That's the blower motor relay; nothing to do with the radiator fan.

In the control box you should have a small and a LARGE relay. We're interested in the thick wires to those relays. The LARGE relay should have two thick black wires together on one terminal whereas the other terminal has only one thick black wire. Is that what you see?

If yes, place your red meter probe on the terminal with one thick black wire and your black meter probe to earth. Do you see 12v?

If yes, move the red meter probe to the terminal on the small relay with the purple wire. Do you also see 12v here?

These supplies are direct from the battery so no need to turn on the ignition.

Simon

So probing the thick black wire I'm getting 0.6 Volts and then same with the purple wire

On the 2 plugs coming of the car each plug has a think wire one is brown blue and the other black the brown blue has 12V the black 0

Edit: I followed the black wire going into the relay to plug I can see in the loom it has a T splits into 2 I checked continuity from the plug to the relays and I do have continutiy

[SD1too]

Thanks very much for the voltage measurements Thanos which are helpful. This could be a motor brush as Colvert suggested or the resistor as Arctic says. We can do one more test to find out which it is.

With reference to Arctic's photo, locate the LARGE relay on the right hand side. Using a short length of wire we're going to join the thin blue/red wire to earth. The most convenient earth point is the THICK black wire on the small relay. Be very careful to choose the correct THICK black wire. Alternatively and probably more safely, use a longer length of wire to the battery negative terminal.

This test will energise the LARGE relay and, if the brushes are ok, the motor will run at full speed. Having put your linking wire in place, turn on the ignition and tell me what happens please.

Simon

[thanos.m]

I think I found the problem broken wire as you can see it has completely corroded and fallen apart. I stripped some house wire just to bridge this and I've got 12v now. The question is how to do I get this back together there no slack in the wires and as I'm working roadside nor do I have access to power to solder

I bridged these 2 terminals with a that wire started the car up wouldn't you know it the fan kicked in as it should

[vitesse]

Originally Posted by thanos.m

I think I found the problem broken wire as you can see it has completely corroded and fallen apart. I stripped some house wire just to bridge this and I've got 12v now. The question is how to do I get this back together there no slack in the wires and as I'm working roadside nor do I have access to power to solder

I bridged these 2 terminals with a that wire started the car up wouldn't you know it the fan kicked in as it should

You could do what the previous owner has done and crimp a length of wire in. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I don't recognise that connector and the wire that has broken seems to have been crimped in place.

Good that you've found the problem though