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Old 18th April 2022, 07:38   #81
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....... on about the third wack the blissful crack and ping of the separation ....
Clearly your earlier attempts loosened it for you!
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Old 18th April 2022, 07:45   #82
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... i managed to swing the sledge hammer with good force and ... on about the third wack ...
It's good to hear that you were successful John. I have a question. How did you avoid damaging the end of the threaded balljoint shaft with your whacks with the sledge hammer? Please don't say "I put a nut on it" because I found that once the joint is released the nut couldn't be removed due to the shaft rotating!

Simon
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Old 18th April 2022, 08:57   #83
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It's good to hear that you were successful John. I have a question. How did you avoid damaging the end of the threaded balljoint shaft with your whacks with the sledge hammer? Please don't say "I put a nut on it" because I found that once the joint is released the nut couldn't be removed due to the shaft rotating!

Simon
Not having to use it again you simply disc cut it off.--Thirty seconds and it's done.---
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Old 18th April 2022, 09:04   #84
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Whoever said use a 7lb sledge hammer you win it came off on about the third decent strike once i got the car up high enough.
My post 66.---Told you.-- Nothing , nothing beats experience.---

No more of this---
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Old 18th April 2022, 12:27   #85
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Not having to use it again you simply disc cut it off.
OK Jon thanks. What about if the suspension arm is to be refitted?

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Old 18th April 2022, 12:45   #86
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You don't hit the threaded part of the taper you hit the subframe adjacent to the taper the resulting shock releases it ,if you run the nut so it is flush with the end of the thread and jack the car up so the weight of the car is on it (the nut giving a bigger footprint for the Jack)the upward force helps with the release, then if the nut spins after release just force the taper back in with a bar undo the nut and prise back out with the bar or prise and tap the subframe again and it will pop right out
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Old 18th April 2022, 12:52   #87
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It's good to hear that you were successful John. I have a question. How did you avoid damaging the end of the threaded balljoint shaft with your whacks with the sledge hammer? Please don't say "I put a nut on it" because I found that once the joint is released the nut couldn't be removed due to the shaft rotating!

Simon

In short leave the nut on the end then once wacked loose cut the nut off remove and clean the end up as pin thread should be long enough to refit if arm still in serviceable condition.


I tried to put a nut on it but didnt have the right thread pitch to hand nor a m14 die to retap so did it without and was careful not to mash it up. did have to dress the end of the pin a couple of times when it became damaged and even split due to unsuccessful separator attempts on it ripped it to pieces. In the past i have had that trouble and then just loosened the nut off enough to get a hacksaw blade in to cut pin off as need be as nnot posh enough to own a disc cutter.

The nut that came off was totally threaded and it destroyed the thread coming off, once the nut was off I had to cut a half inch off the thread for the separators to fit so leaving about the same again exposed. The pullers managed to split the end of the threaded pin further but once cleaned up with a file and chisel i made sure to round the edges with the file and flatten the end. I did not want to keep wacking it to form a rivet so eventually found the right tool (a 7lb sledge hammer lol) lined it up and three good laser guided wacks i spent more time setting it up, getting the car high etc than hitting it. The end of the pin was slightly bulged but it slipt through the hole in the sub frame without drama, they would have heard my words on Mars otherwise lol.



I also seem to have troubles with the outer tie rod (prefer to move it up out the way to get to the bush bolts), these always seem to get a mashed up top nut and the Alan key middle always mashes up to leaving them stuck on ironically i never once took a splitter to it. Have found using a jack on the bottom of the tie rod to apply pressure up so the taper is firmly gripped by the hub then a mashed up nut will come off saving the tie rod and just put a new nut on which again is not the standard thread i think its one more size up.
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Last edited by Retap; 18th April 2022 at 13:11.. Reason: If you want it then hya betta put a nut on it.
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Old 18th April 2022, 12:53   #88
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Not having to use it again you simply disc cut it off.--Thirty seconds and it's done.---

Defo if your posh.
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Old 18th April 2022, 12:54   #89
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My post 66.---Told you.-- Nothing , nothing beats experience.---

No more of this---

I am converted brother Colvert. You just canne beat a good wack with a lump of iron.
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Old 18th April 2022, 12:59   #90
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OK Jon thanks. What about if the suspension arm is to be refitted?

Simon

I can imagine this scenario applies if a garage cuts the subframe to remove an old arm and you want to save the new arm they put on for the new subframe you made the garage pay for or perhaps if breaking a car?


Otherwise these arms are disposable really as removal can be destructive which is a shame as if it was possible to change the hub ball joint end it would save so much pain though i have found the inner balljoint usually starts getting loose not long after the outer goes wonky.
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