That front lower arm ball joint - #%&!

[Retap]

Originally Posted by Bazzateer

Clearly your earlier attempts loosened it for you!

Ofcourse!

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Popcorn

You don't hit the threaded part of the taper you hit the subframe adjacent to the taper the resulting shock releases it

That's a novel method Sean which I've not seen specified in any of the numerous threads on using hammer blows including Retap's!

Originally Posted by Popcorn

... if the nut spins after release just force the taper back in with a bar undo the nut and prise back out with the bar ...

When I tried that method, having removed the nut the tapered shaft was stuck fast again! As the arm is aluminium I chose not to risk damage by attempting prising.

Thanks for coming back on this though Sean.

Simon

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Retap

Otherwise these arms are disposable really as removal can be destructive ...

Removal is fine with a suitable tool and method as you have discovered John. For me it was a Sykes Pickavant articulated puller and for you a 7lb sledge hammer.

Treating the OEM arm as "disposable" can backfire when the aftermarket item is inferior. Many members have reported difficulties with these. I always keep as many original parts as I can.

Simon

[Popcorn]

When I tried that method, having removed the nut the tapered shaft was stuck fast again! As the arm is aluminium I chose not to risk damage by attempting prising.

Thanks for coming back on this though Sean.

Simon[/QUOTE]

I did say prise and hit the subframe again and it will release, once the taper has released initially and the nut is removed the force holding the taper is no where near as much as it originally was so prising with a bar would do no damage but if it's reluctant to come out tap the subframe and it will pop out

[Retap]

Originally Posted by SD1too

Removal is fine with a suitable tool and method as you have discovered John. For me it was a Sykes Pickavant articulated puller and for you a 7lb sledge hammer.

Treating the OEM arm as "disposable" can backfire when the aftermarket item is inferior. Many members have reported difficulties with these. I always keep as many original parts as I can.

Simon

Fair enough, but are you saying you have the ammo to actually replace the ball joints in those oem parts?.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Retap

Fair enough, but are you saying you have the ammo to actually replace the ball joints in those oem parts?.

No, sadly not. I was referring to removing the arm to fit new bushes (or balljoint gaiters).

Simon

[COLVERT]

On cars where the ball joint housing can be got at from both sides I've used two lump hammer. You have to time it right to hit both sides of the housing at the same time.

Been there, done it and got the T shirt.---


Shocking but true.--

[Retap]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

On cars where the ball joint housing can be got at from both sides I've used two lump hammer. You have to time it right to hit both sides of the housing at the same time.

Been there, done it and got the T shirt.---


Shocking but true.--

Ive seen videos of it done but never managed it (yet). this weekend just gone i got bit in the hand when one of the splitters pinged off so was slightly hampered by a right hand that droppped to about 50% of its usual capacity. Swinging that big old lump hammer was a good move on the first wack i knew it would go it just felt right.

[Fred Byrne]

This has been a most interesting saga. Hats off to everyone for sheer perseverance and ingenuity. Now I know why my garage man said "don't ever ask me to do that job again".
Fred

[Retap]

The last two days have been nice and sunny, good. Had to change this bleeding bush again as the rubber had totally detached so it lasted 15 months and no adverse driving had caused it, hadnt been near the kerb on the off side you dont do you.... I put on the Rimmer bought one luckily had it in the shed waiting, i think the one that knackerd was the Moog. I note they dont seem available any longer those bad boys.