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22nd September 2019, 12:57 | #1 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2019
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Battle of the Bolt (lower arm to trailing arm)
I'm having a major battle with the lower arm to trailing arm bolt (OSR) - I got it part way off then the nut refused to go any further due to rust on the thread. So I decided to attack the nut itself. This is the result after more than an hour with a nut splitter and an oscillating multi tool.
Would you believe it, the little swine still refuses to come off. The nut splitter would have got it first time if it hadn't been for that pesky flange and the multi tool would certainly polish it off if it wasn't for the fact that all my metal-cutting blades are blunt. |
22nd September 2019, 12:58 | #2 |
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Why has no-one come up with a way to protect the exposed ends of bolt threads.
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22nd September 2019, 13:07 | #3 | |
I really should get out more.......
A Reasonably Priced Car Join Date: Jan 2014
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Quote:
Same old process, speed speed and some more speed, not many bother about how easy things can be made for next time it has to come off ! So many cannot even get wheel bolt torques correct, so we are all fighting the battles created for us. I would soak EVERYTHING now in PlusGas, and leave it for time to work it's magic for when you return ! Hope things improve ! |
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22nd September 2019, 13:17 | #4 |
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I gave it a lot of Plusgas after splitting the nut and it made no difference. The side of the thread nearest the camera (not visible in pics) is the problem.
A new metal-cutting blade is the answer - assuming I can stop the bolt rotating in the bush. |
22nd September 2019, 17:56 | #5 | |
I really should get out more.......
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Quote:
Upon reassembly a bit of grease on the thread then a little section of rubber hose would help stave of corrosion for a while longer. Last edited by Lovel; 22nd September 2019 at 18:00.. |
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22nd September 2019, 19:15 | #6 |
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I won the battle - will post a pic later. Hacksaw!
What about a good dose of Bilt Hamber Dynax UB or UC on the new nuts & bolts (and everything else underneath)? |
22nd September 2019, 23:22 | #7 | |
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[QUOTE]
Quote:
I have use some heat shrink it easy to cut off if and when you need to remove the nut in months years to come Arctic. 1
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Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " Last edited by Arctic; 22nd September 2019 at 23:34.. |
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23rd September 2019, 08:22 | #8 | |
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[QUOTE=Arctic;2763870]
Quote:
Meanwhile, here's the offending bolt/nut - it took me about 3 hours to get this one off. If I'd known how tough it was going to be I'd have hacksawed the exposed bit of thread off right at the start, then the nut has no rusted thread to complain about. |
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23rd September 2019, 09:03 | #9 |
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[QUOTE][QUOTE=Blink;2763900]The heat shrink is 5ml longer than the thread, once heated squash shrink with some small pliers then trim the end if you need to.
https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...1&postcount=20
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Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " Last edited by Arctic; 23rd September 2019 at 09:11.. Reason: spelling |
24th September 2019, 10:13 | #10 | |
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Quote:
I think this is definitely worth doing, especially on all rear end bolts. I was planning on just covering them with Dynax UB or UC wax. |
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