MOT massacre

[planenut]

As to the front spring, it could be that by feel the engineer has found it not seated in the loop, which might indicate that it is broken anyway. Count the number of coils on each.

[clf]

Originally Posted by postbasher

Am still reeling from the shock..i ws expecting something to come up but OMG...i have this day had to contemplate scrappage..
Like many other folk I have not worked for months..luckily for me tho i start a six week stint in august .."but money is just too tight to mention" all the same..
so the fail last year was a light bulb and a windscreen washer..something like that...advisory was a brake issue...
Today...

Both sills...i knew about a hole the size of my fist on one sill by the rear jacking point cos i repaired it in march with fiberglass...how naieve was i?But didnt see this coming.

Repairing with fibreglass is likely asking for trouble, particularly if it is noticeable. If they see signs of fibreglass near a structural area, the MOT testers here will ignore the fibreglas, treating it as a hole (even if they are simply cosmetic panels! ). But if you cannot weld, or have no access to welding, it is best to get this done properly, and Tom Hobbs, well, just look at his work! - for what I believe to be in and around £200 per side!

one rear wheel bearing failed - as mentioned, and with plenty of how tos on here, it seems to be relatively straightforward. One such example.

NSF coil spring not located in correct position with possible rust/damage?- I am guessing the spring has actually snapped at the tail and moved. A lot go unnoticed, sometimes for years, but a video to replace, as a guide. (edit, misread the NSF, if it has moved, and if it hasnt snapped, which I doubt, I reckon it will be the top mount - does it cluck when you are turning? - some top mounts front and rear listed HERE)

rear suspension arm corroded - one of the most discussed topics on this forum, and most other 75/ZT forums lol. In post 2 on this post there is a how to guide - there are others I believe.

exhaust emissions failed - There could be many reasons, the PCV filter and the intercooler seals would be my first ports of call. - again plenty written on the site. THIS post about what not to do, contains a lot fo good tips, and what to look out for. For intercooler, again plenty to search for, THIS post is but one example. I would recommend taking off the bumper and removing the headlight, to really make sure the elbow seats correctly. You can do it from above, but I could never get it to make the 'thunk' from above, but it did go in and was tight, it still leaked very slightly though. As well as the above, replace the fuel filter, fill it with some Forte Diesel or Injector cleaner (I am not sure of any differences between these), start the car up for 20 seconds, then leave it to soak overnight, next day give it an italian tune up.

top rear shock absorbers missing some washers [at the top?]?? - How do they know? I do not recall the washers, but I didnt think they could take the covers off to look at these things. But with the spring out (see above) dropping the rear shock is simply undoing the top three nuts, which should be easy. An example of top mounts.

and none of the above will address the aircon issue
The emissions issue might be addressed with fuel additive/cleaner?
suspension arm likely have to be new....
sills £150 each
Doing any work myself is out of the question..dont have the tools or skills..
I did wonder if i should put it up for sale ofcourse but only briefly...I will have to find the money...i need this motor to get me and the caravan to my temp job in walsall in august...so i guess i just wanted a rant...

this NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD- appens eh...I will be looking at a bill in the region of £600 apparently ...I suppose what i want you all to say is that yes...its an investment in the next few years of motoring...it stands to reason that i will have a sound vehicle for a few years?...any thoughts folks?...something cheery pls lol
PS...sometimes just helps to put it out there...i can and i will bite the bullet.

Good luck with it, it doesnt really seem that bad, and nothing out of the ordinary. With the exception of the welding, it all seems relatively straightforward for someone with a history of working on cars, I do not think you would need anything more than a small 1/2 inch socket set. If you break it down, many of the issues we are facing at the age of the cars, there is nothing that cannot be equated to a 5-10 year old mk2! lol. There is just less space to do it with, oh and stiffer joints lol.

[75driver]

Faced with the constraints of costs, and what needs done, I think I’d be inclined to have a look round on the classifieds or the net, to see what’s on offer with an mot for similar costs, say £600.
You could be surprised!
But obviously that works both ways....so long as you know what to check for on any new potential purchase.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by postbasher

none are advisories....and nothing ever mentioned before in any mot

Thanks for your reply Mark and I agree with you that, with the exception of your sills repair, the number and nature of the failures raises my suspicions.

I question how "possible" rust damage can qualify for failure. I thought that MOT testers report facts, in other words what they see and feel. Surely such a comment should be an advisory.

How can a rear suspension arm corrode to the point of failure without receiving an advisory the year before?

As has been said above, the remark about the rear shock absorbers having missing washers is highly suspicious. Dismantling is not allowed as part of the MOT test and the upper mounting is invisible without it. Did the tester get out the MG Rover electronic parts catalogue to determine this I wonder?

Have you allowed yourself time to obtain a second opinion Mark? The indications are that this is an attempt to create some business with a quote of £600 and the unrealistically low sum of £150 for each sill (go to a bodyshop for those).

Simon

[postbasher]

Hi Steve-45...youre right ofcourse...my dad used to say"youll never be rich if you have a car" lol......but i think its different when something packs up and needs replacing...you can see the reason for the cost..a couple of items on my list have come as a real shock...the whole sill on both sides especially...

[postbasher]

Originally Posted by planenut

As to the front spring, it could be that by feel the engineer has found it not seated in the loop, which might indicate that it is broken anyway. Count the number of coils on each.

planenut, that does sound familiar...i didnt wholly understand their brief description but as you put it sounds right...

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by postbasher

..a couple of items on my list have come as a real shock...the whole sill on both sides especially...

Unless you park your car where it's subject to salt spray you will not need the entire length replacing. Besides, that would be impossible for £150.

The part which rusts is the turret inside the sill just above the lifting pad. A repair section needs to be made from scratch for that area only (original sills are not available separately).

Visit some bodyshops for quotes for the sill work.

Simon

[postbasher]

Originally Posted by coolguy

Little consolation I know, but what would £600 buy you as a replacement even with a contribution from the 75, and then it could be trouble. The prices of both second hand and new cars these days is frightening.

Aye, this is my conclusion also coolguy..

[postbasher]

Originally Posted by SD1too

Thanks for your reply Mark and I agree with you that, with the exception of your sills repair, the number and nature of the failures raises my suspicions.

I question how "possible" rust damage can qualify for failure. I thought that MOT testers report facts, in other words what they see and feel. Surely such a comment should be an advisory.

How can a rear suspension arm corrode to the point of failure without receiving an advisory the year before?

As has been said above, the remark about the rear shock absorbers having missing washers is highly suspicious. Dismantling is not allowed as part of the MOT test and the upper mounting is invisible without it. Did the tester get out the MG Rover electronic parts catalogue to determine this I wonder?

Have you allowed yourself time to obtain a second opinion Mark? The indications are that this is an attempt to create some business with a quote of £600 and the unrealistically low sum of £150 for each sill (go to a bodyshop for those).

Simon

thanks Simon...bottom line is i only have myself to blame..I should take more time to become mechanically more aware...next time perhaps i will go in with my eyes open! I have much to learn so that i can ask the right questions.

[postbasher]

Originally Posted by 75driver

Faced with the constraints of costs, and what needs done, I think I’d be inclined to have a look round on the classifieds or the net, to see what’s on offer with an mot for similar costs, say £600.
You could be surprised!
But obviously that works both ways....so long as you know what to check for on any new potential purchase.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

thanks 75driver, in this case theres a time constraint..and also it can be difficult to find something already fitted with towbar...also better the devil you know sometimes i think...