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Old 7th March 2021, 16:42   #21
Cantray
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Yes I think that's where this is heading. Before that quite keen to try TOAF now that I have downloaded it onto an old laptop. Unless someone tells me I'm daft.
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Old 7th March 2021, 17:36   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantray View Post
Yes I think that's where this is heading. Before that quite keen to try TOAF now that I have downloaded it onto an old laptop. Unless someone tells me I'm daft.



Just be wary when using TOAF. Make a backup of all modules before you do anything else.
However, as it’s a possibility that your ECM may have lost its pairing with the LCM / immobiliser, I don’t know if that can be easily fixed on TOAF without virginising the eeprom chip in the LCM.
Someone better qualified than me may be able to advise.


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Old 7th March 2021, 17:39   #23
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Default cdi not starting

Mine did this a few times when not being used for a while during lockdown..battery seemed ok when readings taken and was turning over o.k.
Used one of these small jump start contraptions I have and as soon as I turned the key the engine turned over a lot faster and started first time..it seemed the speed of the engine turn over was the answer and battery has to be at the top of its game....just my personal experience for what its worth...may not be your problem but worth a thought..
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Old 11th March 2021, 16:41   #24
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An update - I received the OBD cable in post today and soldered 7+8

Connected to car, TOAF worked straight away

Cleared old engine faults and tried to start x 2

On both occasion TOAF reports the following faults:

3505 Glow device
0400 Exhaust gas Recirculation or Exhaust gas Recirculation actuator
1195 Rail Pressure regulating Valve
0100 Air Mass Meter
1E25 Monitoring speed (rpm) sensor

The only thing I'm sure of is that its unlikely to be Glow device that is stopping car from starting, given that if fires and dies with easy start.

Any wisdom on how to interpret these codes gratefully received.

thanks!
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Old 11th March 2021, 17:16   #25
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Pretty sure its the fuel pressure thats the problem.

Glow plugs aren't really required in the UK to make a CDT start

this might help
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Old 11th March 2021, 17:20   #26
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I was beginning to think that too but noted a number of fuel pressure codes on the historic faults but low fuel pressure has not come up again since clearing the old codes.
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Old 11th March 2021, 18:11   #27
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Think I know where the problem might lie
Seen this a few times now, power isn't getting to the sensors on the engine.
Check for 12v on the red and white wire that goes to the crank sensor, if there's none, temporarily run a wire from the battery to the red and white wire.
The car should then start
All that remains then is to make a permanent repair to the wiring.
It's usually caused by a failure of the spliced joint to the wire in the harness below the ECM box
There's another just above the starter motor

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Last edited by BigRuss; 11th March 2021 at 18:56..
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Old 11th March 2021, 19:12   #28
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Thank you very much Russ. I''ll check this tomorrow.
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Old 11th March 2021, 19:17   #29
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Applying 12v to the red/white wire should also supply the other sensors too

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Old 11th March 2021, 19:59   #30
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Suggestion:

Check fuse F1 (15A) in the engine fusebox.
Locate the multipole connector under the engine fusebox, with the yellow and blue wire.
Disconnect and clean up contact, then connect and disconnect a few times.
Corrosion on that contact will stop the 12V supply via the red/white wire for all the sensors etc highlighted by TOAF.

Have fun.

Last edited by MarkS; 11th March 2021 at 21:09..
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