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7th March 2021, 16:42 | #21 |
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Yes I think that's where this is heading. Before that quite keen to try TOAF now that I have downloaded it onto an old laptop. Unless someone tells me I'm daft.
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7th March 2021, 17:36 | #22 | |
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Quote:
Just be wary when using TOAF. Make a backup of all modules before you do anything else. However, as it’s a possibility that your ECM may have lost its pairing with the LCM / immobiliser, I don’t know if that can be easily fixed on TOAF without virginising the eeprom chip in the LCM. Someone better qualified than me may be able to advise. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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7th March 2021, 17:39 | #23 |
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cdi not starting
Mine did this a few times when not being used for a while during lockdown..battery seemed ok when readings taken and was turning over o.k.
Used one of these small jump start contraptions I have and as soon as I turned the key the engine turned over a lot faster and started first time..it seemed the speed of the engine turn over was the answer and battery has to be at the top of its game....just my personal experience for what its worth...may not be your problem but worth a thought.. |
11th March 2021, 16:41 | #24 |
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An update - I received the OBD cable in post today and soldered 7+8
Connected to car, TOAF worked straight away Cleared old engine faults and tried to start x 2 On both occasion TOAF reports the following faults: 3505 Glow device 0400 Exhaust gas Recirculation or Exhaust gas Recirculation actuator 1195 Rail Pressure regulating Valve 0100 Air Mass Meter 1E25 Monitoring speed (rpm) sensor The only thing I'm sure of is that its unlikely to be Glow device that is stopping car from starting, given that if fires and dies with easy start. Any wisdom on how to interpret these codes gratefully received. thanks! |
11th March 2021, 17:16 | #25 |
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Pretty sure its the fuel pressure thats the problem.
Glow plugs aren't really required in the UK to make a CDT start this might help
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11th March 2021, 17:20 | #26 |
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I was beginning to think that too but noted a number of fuel pressure codes on the historic faults but low fuel pressure has not come up again since clearing the old codes.
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11th March 2021, 18:11 | #27 |
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Think I know where the problem might lie
Seen this a few times now, power isn't getting to the sensors on the engine. Check for 12v on the red and white wire that goes to the crank sensor, if there's none, temporarily run a wire from the battery to the red and white wire. The car should then start All that remains then is to make a permanent repair to the wiring. It's usually caused by a failure of the spliced joint to the wire in the harness below the ECM box There's another just above the starter motor Russ
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11th March 2021, 19:12 | #28 |
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Thank you very much Russ. I''ll check this tomorrow.
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11th March 2021, 19:17 | #29 |
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Applying 12v to the red/white wire should also supply the other sensors too
Russ
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11th March 2021, 19:59 | #30 |
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Suggestion:
Check fuse F1 (15A) in the engine fusebox. Locate the multipole connector under the engine fusebox, with the yellow and blue wire. Disconnect and clean up contact, then connect and disconnect a few times. Corrosion on that contact will stop the 12V supply via the red/white wire for all the sensors etc highlighted by TOAF. Have fun. Last edited by MarkS; 11th March 2021 at 21:09.. |
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