Jacking the car up.

[ardvark]

The blocks I used are 4" cubes,
I drilled a 3/4" hole 2" deep in the center of one of the sides.
I cut 3" of broom handle and put it in the hole.
From the under side where the hole was drilled I screwed a 4" screw thru the block and into the handle.
The screw holds the handle in place and also as it screwed in expanded the handle to hold it solid in it's hole.

As for getting genuine pads.
I think free blocks are better than 4p short of £30
If thats me being tight then so be it.

[Blink]

Originally Posted by ardvark

........ I think free blocks are better than 4p short of £30.

As long as they don't bend the jacking points/sills when you lower the car onto them (i.e. if they're not quite aligned with the holes).

[Blink]

Re height, I think you'll need to lift a lot higher than I have to use a creeper and it'll take a higher lift jack to do it.

My jack has a maximum lift of 465mm and it was very near that to get the car onto 3 layers of 100mm sleepers under the sills. To use a creeper I would need at least a 4th layer and probably a 5th - the jack I've got certainly wouldn't go high enough for that.

[Blink]

The lowest creepers here are 95mm high - that's approx 1 layer of my sleepers. I quite fancy the one with the headrest so it's 2 layers.

[ardvark]

That is the idea of the broom handle pegs. To make sure the block's line up.
As for bending the sill. The jacking points are reinforced and won't bend

[Arctic]

Why not just jack the car up at the front so both wheels lift at the same time, put your first sleeper under each front wheel, drop the car onto them, then using another platform ie section of wood over the size of the jack, put jack on top and jack up again then add another sleeper, and so on to you reach the height you would like.

Yes I understand this way you could not work on the discs ect but you can do what ever you need under the car.

Jacking up in sections until I can get the ramps under each wheel
1


2.

[Blink]

Originally Posted by Arctic

..... using another platform ie section of wood over the size of the jack, put jack on top and jack up again then add another sleeper, and so on to you reach the height you would like.

That's the only way of getting to 4 or 5 layers, short of buying another (giant) jack.

Why doesn't anybody sell jack platforms - for those of us who don't have giant jacks.

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by Blink

It's not the strength of the handle or the block I'm talking about - it's the joint between them (a woodscrew?). I wouldn't want lumps of wood glued to the sills - the wood will retain water and it'll cause rust. It's not worth the hassle - the proper pads are £7.49 each. https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rov...d588f3dd&_ss=r

The glue is very temporary just to hold the wood in place as the car is lowered on to them---

The dowel is just to LOCATE the wood pads. They could be glued in too. ( No screws. ) Afterwards the whole lot is thrown away and not retained on the car.

There will be NO DAMAGE to the car.-------

[ceedy]

shopping around for another jack ..


And not near the car with a tape measure


Can anyone give the distance from ground to a jack pad on a ZT ? might be a tad lower than a 75 .


ta


Chris

[ardvark]

I think members forget that saving pennies is one of the objects of the exercise.
Buying this and that when I can get things done for nothing is the way I tend to go