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13th February 2018, 11:45 | #11 |
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Right, I've managed to find one image of what is said to be a diesel mount removed from a vehicle. It shows the letter J stamped on the underside. Just need to find images of 1.8 and V6 mounts too. Not that this helps particularly as original OEM parts (pre Apr 2005) will no doubt be very scarce. I did notice that the original parts are date stamped which will help to identify OEM.
https://www.ebay.ie/itm/ROVER-75-MG-...item2a9d22437d
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Jobs Done since (Apr 2012): Spyhole, Thermostat, IMG (x2), Front ARB Drop links (x3 pairs), Rear Damper, Coils/HT Leads, Heater Matrix, Unions, 13x tyres, Gearbox Oil, Full Service (x3), Water pump & belts, LH/RH lower arm & bushes, Front/Rear pads/Discs, Fr door finishers, Track Rods, Jule's intake tube, Clutch, Slave, DMF (ouch), 1 1/2 exhausts, front springs/top mounts, Jule's Fan upgrade/condenser, reverse gear switch, OSR upper arm, spring, and sill welding. 78,000miles (175,600m total). Last edited by Steve1966; 13th February 2018 at 11:55.. |
13th February 2018, 13:24 | #12 |
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Rover 75 Saloon MGZT Join Date: Jul 2012
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Did the hydramount in my 135 bhp diesel.
The lower engine mount had also gone so replaced that as well with a powerflex bush. Think that when the lower mount goes it places huge strain on the hydramount . Prior to doing the hydramount , I had a little bit of vibration, did a visual of the hydramount and it all looked fine. Took it out and found there was a large crack in the rubber but no leakage. Also found there is a aluminium spacer under the diesel hydramount unlike the petrol one which screws right down on the cars body. Vibration pretty much gone now. Re different types of hydramounts, I wonder if the suppliers these days really bother with making the parts with the correct rubber as per original design. |
13th February 2018, 13:43 | #13 |
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MG ZT-T 190 Join Date: Feb 2015
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When I changed the hydro-mount on my 190 I used a freelander mount from Island 4/4. The price was quite good as well. I just shortened one of the threaded studs. If I find the invoice I'll get back but it worked ok and still is working. Steve
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13th February 2018, 16:53 | #14 |
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Rover 75 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE 4dr manual Wedgewood Blue 2 04-05/06/2001 Join Date: Nov 2006
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I have had a look at my original from my V6, stamped April 2001 - there appears to be a letter on the base but it is too rusty to make it out. No sign of a coloured spot.
Steve, with regards to the wire strap - on this Apr '01 mount, without strap, the 'slots' in the base and top do not align. On the new 'genuine' mount I fitted, which looked a bit different (made in China?) the slots again did not line up but were in a different orientation to the old one. So did the orientation of the two slots on the mount ever matter with regard to fitting the wire strap? I tried to get the wire when I changed my mount last year but couldn't find one. I have even seen a launch car that looked to have an original mount but no wire, so must have been deleted very very early on.
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13th February 2018, 17:50 | #15 | |
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Quote:
Steve.
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Jobs Done since (Apr 2012): Spyhole, Thermostat, IMG (x2), Front ARB Drop links (x3 pairs), Rear Damper, Coils/HT Leads, Heater Matrix, Unions, 13x tyres, Gearbox Oil, Full Service (x3), Water pump & belts, LH/RH lower arm & bushes, Front/Rear pads/Discs, Fr door finishers, Track Rods, Jule's intake tube, Clutch, Slave, DMF (ouch), 1 1/2 exhausts, front springs/top mounts, Jule's Fan upgrade/condenser, reverse gear switch, OSR upper arm, spring, and sill welding. 78,000miles (175,600m total). |
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14th February 2018, 13:26 | #16 |
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Well, what i discovered this morning is that i am missing this part below the hydramount (the absorber).
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-ZT-Rov...item5b3a47133b Is that the possible cause and how is it possible that it is not there? |
14th February 2018, 13:52 | #17 | |
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Quote:
Steve.
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Jobs Done since (Apr 2012): Spyhole, Thermostat, IMG (x2), Front ARB Drop links (x3 pairs), Rear Damper, Coils/HT Leads, Heater Matrix, Unions, 13x tyres, Gearbox Oil, Full Service (x3), Water pump & belts, LH/RH lower arm & bushes, Front/Rear pads/Discs, Fr door finishers, Track Rods, Jule's intake tube, Clutch, Slave, DMF (ouch), 1 1/2 exhausts, front springs/top mounts, Jule's Fan upgrade/condenser, reverse gear switch, OSR upper arm, spring, and sill welding. 78,000miles (175,600m total). |
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14th February 2018, 14:32 | #18 | |
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Quote:
Yes I asked this question about 2.5-3 years and was shot down, saying they are larger when I knew they were not, admittedly I bought as a spare for the TD4 I had at the time, but they looked awfully alike if not the same, turns out yes they fit if you cut off the thread a little. Rob & Steve fitted it to trebor diesel and all went well and works great cost is a lot less as well. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER...19.m1438.l2649 1 2
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14th February 2018, 14:36 | #19 | |
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8th November 2019, 19:19 | #20 |
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75 Tourer cdti hydra(o)mount
Hi, while taking out the HPFP prior to putting in the recon HPFP (from P F Jones) I found the hydramount (or is it hydromount) was leaking. It fell apart taking it out.
Bought a replacement from DMGRS and plan to fit it tomorrow. I don't have the special tool but plan to spin it in with with a bit of threadlock on and then tighten up with couple of taps with a copper drift. Then use the torque wrench on the top nut (will check book for torque on that). I'm assuming that by the time the "cap" over the top hydramount stud is tight against the top of the hydramount then it won't spin and stress the rubber. Bit expensive to stuff up! Any thoughts? JohnnyBG |
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