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5th August 2015, 10:56 | #21 |
Precise
Rover 75 Tourer 2.5KV6 Connoisseur SE Join Date: Mar 2013
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Steve,
Would I be correct in assuming that the O-ring is there to stop the cable end (square + round lugs) from sliding towards the plate thus disconnecting the cable? Links to suppliers? Last edited by KWIL; 5th August 2015 at 11:33.. |
5th August 2015, 18:38 | #22 | |
This is my second home
Rover 75 CDT-2001 Join Date: Jan 2009
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Quote:
Because my driver side is now applying properly again, during the course of the day my drum has been getting cleaned up through successive applications, and the brake is actually getting better as the day rolled on. as arctic has said, it does take slightly longer to fit than the original stainless mod, but in my case it only extended the job by about 10 minutes so im not complaining. As far as links to suppliers, got mine from ebay for £5 so just keep searching ebay until one comes up. |
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6th August 2015, 10:56 | #23 | |
This is my second home
75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD Join Date: May 2010
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I don't think now we have a ready made solution, it is worth my continuing to offer the modification service any longer. I have had to curtail the service recently due to my own personal circumstances (the death of my partner), but it is now not worth restarting the service.
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. |
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6th August 2015, 13:35 | #24 | |
Give to Learn
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Quote:
Sorry for not getting back right away been busy, yes you are correct in a way but from what I can see the lug could not come out/adrift as it would need to be turned 45 degrees before it can be released and taken out of the equaliser. As you can see from the photo's below and I have added the belt and braces to the ones I have Reverse of the equaliser 1 side view 2 cable removed 3 showing the retaining ring & copper slip added 4 The cable as to be fitted through the side of the equaliser 5 6 Then pulled through to centre 7 belt and braces with the split pin fitted 8 9 I am still offering the SSC to members whom wish to fit one as they are just as good and are easier to fit, I do not and will not supply the R53 members would have to source their own the one I have are for the nano meets should a R75 owner ask for one to be fitted.
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Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " |
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9th August 2015, 22:31 | #25 |
Avid contributor
Rover 75 Saloon, Tourer, Limo Join Date: Feb 2011
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Arctic - many thanks for suggesting this, a MINI handbrake arrived yesterday and I replaced the stretched compensator on the LWB today. IMHO a much better design than the original (un)compensator.
For anyone contemplating this on a LWB/Limo/VDP, it's a worse job since the rear footwell carpet is bespoke and glued in place - carpet over semi-rigid backing over 6mm foam. The latter is the pig since it's the sort that disintegrates if you try to peel it, the other two layers can be peeled away individually or together. It's far easier to go in from under the front seats - the bespoke carpet starts just at the under-seat air vent, and is held in place by the rear seat rail bolts - so remove both seats and peel the carpet from the front edge towards the back of the car. I tried peeling from the back forwards first, but gave up when I realised that the seats had to come out anyway Some shaky phone photos, driver's side showing the start of the peel back against the console: and on the passenger side: When you get to the compensator cover plate removal, you have to find the three mounting screws by feel, then trace the edge of the plate with a sharp knife to cut the foam. Easy once you've found the front corners and back edge by locating the screws! In total the job took four hours, and I'm familiar with working on the interior so wasn't fumbling around. In the end I removed both front seats, plus removed the four front securing screws for the centre console to allow for greater lift. TBH it was only laziness that stopped me taking the gearknob off and lifting the whole console out! Having the passenger seat out made the job a whole lot easier - I could easily thread old & new compensator cables around/through the various obstacles. I have to do the same job on the estate and will go down this route for that one too. Finally, one of these little Rolson ratchet screwdrivers was very handy for removing the two side screws of the centre console:
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-- CDT auto Club Saloon CDT auto Connoisseur SE Tourer CDT auto Connoisseur MacNeillie Limousine Last edited by RoverDan; 9th August 2015 at 22:36.. |
10th August 2015, 08:08 | #26 | |
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Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009
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Quote:
I think you have hit the nail on the head Harry - if the system is set up correctly when fitted, then the compensator won't have much compensating to do. And once set up correctly there isn't much in the way of wear to take into account, so it should stay that way. Of the twisted ones you have seen, I wonder if it might be due to something seizing on one side as opposed to incorrect adjustment? |
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10th August 2015, 08:53 | #27 |
Give to Learn
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Hi Mike
The 5mm of compensation was for the front cable, once this was used reached then the set up would need adjusting at the rear, the R53 system does not stretch therefore the ( 10mm ) adjustment on the front cable remains intact. On the old OEM there was only 5mm as stated above with the R53 there is more equalising at the rear cables as you can see from the photo below. The OEM chocolate mild steel one would only allow for a little equalisation then it would because of how it was made up start bending the bar off centre. With the SSC and the R53 this could not happen as you can see in the photo's below, there is a little drawing graph of how the OEM one could equalise of centre before putting pressure on the top bar which also opened up so not really up to the job in my opinion. The R53 is the solution I think Rover should have used, and certainly another alternative for members. OEM & SSC 1 With the R53 included 2 3 Arctic
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Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " |
10th August 2015, 10:34 | #28 | |
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Quote:
I completely agree with you on this. if you have received my old "self modified" compensator back after i swapped to the R53 you will notice what i did wrong with it by using a slightly too long shackle. It allowed the shackle to pop out from the guide prongs when i was fitting new backplates and pulled up hard to pull the cable in to the plate. At the time i didnt know that this had happened, and just adjusted the hubs as normal and all was fine. The problem i had was there was absolutely no articulation in this state because the compensator was jammed off centre, so as soon as the shoes on the trailing wheel wore down a bit, the brake in that wheel stopped holding, and i was constantly re-adjusting. When i just fitted the r53 last week i checked its position. I had not adjusted the hubs at this point because next week will be fitting new disks so plan to do it then. You can imagine therefore that in this state, one wheel needs more movement of the cable than the other, but the point is in reference to your photos, the angle of the compensator was less than what the r53 can manage, but more than the stainless one could manage, hence I now have a great handbrake, even with badly adjusted hubs. The R53 is simply more tolerant of adjustment and wear than the oem was, and as a genuine manufacturer part, you just feel better with it in there. It is puzzling why, when rover must have had this design in view, they opted for the chocolate one. |
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16th September 2015, 17:07 | #29 |
Posted a thing or two
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Great 'how to'. I'm doing rear discs/pads soon and want to replace the compensator at the same time (MOT in 6 weeks and it was advisory last time). Both links are for handbrake lever assemblies and as I prefer to buy new parts, do you know if there is/are part number(s) for the R53 cable and the yoke (or cable with yoke)?
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21st September 2015, 17:41 | #30 |
I really should get out more.......
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Another little fact i haven't seen mentioned is the Mini R50 R52 and R53 fuel tank straps are the same as the R40/R41. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-MINI-O...item280062cae4
I wonder how many others may be the same? i know the door lock mechs are, can anyone add any others? |
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