Inop Fuel Guage

[Dacman]

Hello.

Bit of a long one...but i wonder if any one could help.
A coulpe of weeks ago my kv6 zt broke down the AA towed me to a garage and the garage diagnosed a broken fuel module, i will not say (out of embarassment) how much i got charged. I got a call from the garage saying the fuel guage doesnt work. Any way i took the car back and re booked it in, i have just got my car back 7 days later and they say they cannot find a fault.
This is what they say they have done.
1 Stripped and checked the fuel pump
2 stripped and checked the NEW fuel module
3 Checked all wiring looms
4 Tryed a secondhand (working) fuel guage
5 Checked for fault codes

Still it doesnt work. The garage says i need to book it into a MGR type garage to have them diagnose the fault as they have better diagnostics, then he will sort the fault out.

What do you all think i should do now?
Would plugging the car into a T4 diagnostic note book show anything?
I know it should be the garages problem as it was working but ya know with out disrespect ,take for a ride maybe.

Dac

[Simon]

Why the fuel guage should stop working is a mystery.

Did the second-hand fuel guage work and show a correct reading? It could be the senders in the tank have been disturbed when fitting the new module.

If they are suggesting you find a Testbook-equiped garage then make it perfectly clear to this current garage that if the Testbook equipement finds a fault that was caused by them fitting the new module then you will be looking to reclaim costs of repair against them. If Testbook finds an error but not caused by the new module fitting then I'm affraid you may have to pay out of your own pocket for any repairs needed.

It wont be this but I will mention it anyway... the needles on the guages in the instrument pack are quite senstive. I know that when I changed the background of my dials over I inadvertantly pushed the needles onto the spindles too far and consequently they didn't move. If for some unbeknown reason the instrument pack has been touched and taken apart then it could (just could) be that. Although, as I said it is highly unlikely to have happened to the point of being a daft theory.... so on second thoughts, forget it and just concerntrate on the fuel senders for now....

[Tatts]

How do you do the diagnostics with the trip meter reset & ignition key, that would prove the actual guage is working. I'll have a hunt round for it.

Looking at Haynes, the likely culprit will be the sender in the tank

[Tatts]

Found it. One of the listed below will illuminate all warning lamps, and move all dials - have a try.

To enable the OBC diagnostics:

a) Press and hold the trip reset button.
b) Put key into ignition switch and turn to KLR (Ignition switch
position #1)
c) Your LCD display will show something like this "test 1.-"
d) Press the reset button till you get to "test 19.-". (19.0 unlocks all
the features)
e) Wait for display to show "Log I -off" and press the reset button
f) With no delay press Trip Reset several times to select one of the
following functions:

1 Car, Engine and cluster data

1.0 VIN serial number
1.1 K-number
1.2 Cluster Part #
1.3 Coding (04)/diagnosis (52)/bus index (10)
1.4 1200 Week (12)/year of manufacture (2000)
1.5 09_160 Hardware (09) and software # (16.0) of cluster
1.6 Injection Status-number of cylinders-motor number

2.0 2 Cluster System Test - Activates the gauge drivers, indicators and
LEDs to confirm function

3 Service Inspection (SI) Data
3.0 Used fuel in liters since last SI
3.1 Periodic inspection days; elapsed days (since last SI)

4 Momentary Consumption
4.0 Instant fuel consumption - 0145=14.5 liters/100km
4.1 Instant fuel consumption - 0018=1.8 l/Hour

5 Distance Gone Consumption
5.0 Average mileage; 082=8.2 liters/100km
5.1 Calc. km to refuel (momentary distance to go)

6 Fuel Level sensor inputs in liters
6.0 Fuel level averaged; 109330 - Left half sensor input=10.9 liters;
Right sensor input=33.0 liters
6.1 Total tank level averaged; 0439 - vlgs 6.0: 10.9+33.0=43.9 liters
6.2 Indicated value and diagnostics:
last digit: 1 - both sensors ok; 2 - sensor error; 3 - signal error
- no display

7 Temperature and Speed
7.0 021+ Coolant/Engine temperature (2.1C)
7.1 130 Ambient/Outside temperature - chg met 5 pts. 125/130/135
7.2 Engine speed / Current RPMs 1/min
7.3 Vehicle speed / Current Speed in km/hour

8 Values of 7.0 bis 7.3 in HEX form

9 Battery
9.0 140 Battery Voltage - 140 = UB 14.0v

10.0 Country code

11.0 Unit code

12.0 Not used

13.0 Gong test

14.0-14.4 Error memory: if 000000 no error in memory

15.0 - 18.0 not used

19 Lock Status; unlocks functions in range 3-18
19.0 L-On/L-Off Unlock: press button when "L-Off"

20.0 Correction Factor for OBC Fuel Consumption
Formula for the Correction Factor:
Indicated Consumption X 1000 / Measured Consumption = Factor (4321)
Press Reset button to begin setting the of the first (1) digit - press
reset when the right digit appears
20.1 Setting of the second (2) digit
20.2 Setting of the hundred (3) and thousand (4) digit
20.3 Store and Display the Correction Factor

[b]21.0 Software Reset; reset OBC settings

[Dacman]

Thanks for the reply all.
The garage said they tryed a secondhand guage to my car which didnt work.
I tryed the onboard diagnosics and got the following
2.0.2 ALL (including the fuel guage) rose to the max and fell to rest.

6.0 = 00000
6.1 = 00000
6.2 = ------

Hum fuel senders?
dac

[Simon]

Fuel senders are the sensors in the actual tank. They basically tell the onboard computer (and therefore you) how much fuel you have. If I recall they look similar to little float on sticks which move up and down ontop of the fuel in the tank. If one (or both) have become damaged or the wiring not re-connected properly then this could be causing your fuel guage to show false (ie no) readings.

[Dacman]

Get this... insult to injury.

With my fuel guage not working i put £30 worth of fuel in this morning, drove off and within a few minutes smelt fuel, pulled over and fuel was running down the side of the fuel tank (passenger side). This was already on my list of 'get it put right' along with the broken fuel guage, looks as if neither have been rectified. The car still smells Very petrol like. From underneath it looks like its coming from wear the fuel module is. Are there different modules for different engines? wondering if they have fitted the wrong one?
Looks like a very steady trip back again to the garage

dac

[Tatts]

Dac,

It looks live they've messed up while putting the filter back in. I suspect something is fouling the float or an electrical connector isn't fitted correctly - as you've proved the actual guage works.

The reason you have fuel leaking is they've not fitted the seal properly - I made the same mistake.