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Old 26th August 2020, 21:33   #1
ADO282
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Default Rustproofing???

Having spent many happy hours welding and general fettling under the 75, I'm almost at the stage where I will be applying some rust preventative to the insides of the sill sections.


It will be applied preferably using a standard schutz gun, as I have a small compressor, I'm not particularly interested in the variants to be found in aerosol cans, although I may consider those a a push.


So I'm looking for some recommendations, I will be applying it through the clip holes of the presently removed chrome sill trims, the grommets at the base of the rear inner wheel arch tub, and through the drain holes in the bottom of the sill.


I had considered also removing the sill tread trims, however the plastic clip receptors are very difficult to get out unscathed, so I may give those a miss.


Chris
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Old 26th August 2020, 21:47   #2
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I have used Waxoyle for more years than I can remember. Must be around at least 40 years. I have never used anything else. Just put it in a bucket of water and gently warm it up, not to much, it then goes quite thin, and you can put it in a spray gun if required. Throughly recommend.
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Old 26th August 2020, 22:27   #3
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Originally Posted by bl52krz View Post
I have used Waxoyle for more years than I can remember. Must be around at least 40 years. I have never used anything else. Just put it in a bucket of water and gently warm it up, not to much, it then goes quite thin, and you can put it in a spray gun if required. Throughly recommend.
I too have used waxoyle in the past David, however I have found it tends to solidify in contact with the cooler panel rather than "creep" in capillary action into the seams.


Thixotropic solutions are probably more up to date, and would offer better long term protection.........I've been cutting out rot and welding this car weather permitting since the beginning of July, and I have no desire to repeat the process at all.


There are so many complex structures inside the skin of the sill it needs to be seen to be believed !!


The chap at the paint shop I had the base coat mixed only had U Pol aerosol cavity wax, not what I was after really
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Old 26th August 2020, 23:26   #4
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Hi Christopher, I've been using Dinatrol for a number of years now (I used to use Supertrol, but they went over to only supplying aerosols and like you, I like the pressure obtained from a compressor).

I have always thinned Dinatrol with around 50% white spirit, as this helps it to spray very effectively, leaves a nice even coat (excess will run out the drain holes, so can be collected and reused) and it seeps into spot-welded seams & joints beautifully - and you'll often find that this is where the corrosion actually starts !

It's probably not as cheap as waxoyl, but in my opinion, it's a much better product - no need to warm it, and when thinned & collected, it actually lasts a long time
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Old 27th August 2020, 06:13   #5
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Hi Christopher, I've been using Dinatrol for a number of years now (I used to use Supertrol, but they went over to only supplying aerosols and like you, I like the pressure obtained from a compressor).

I have always thinned Dinatrol with around 50% white spirit, as this helps it to spray very effectively, leaves a nice even coat (excess will run out the drain holes, so can be collected and reused) and it seeps into spot-welded seams & joints beautifully - and you'll often find that this is where the corrosion actually starts !

It's probably not as cheap as waxoyl, but in my opinion, it's a much better product - no need to warm it, and when thinned & collected, it actually lasts a long time

There is a bewildering array of Dinatrol stuff Paul, would this be the type you use?


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dinitrol-...EAAOSwvbRdtu7g


Or perhaps this type


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DINITROL-...QAAOSwH4Be~7AZ




I definitely appreciate the help
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Old 27th August 2020, 06:49   #6
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Bilt Hammer DS for box sections and UB for under body. These more modern products self heal and will creep into cracks and joints. I would recommend two coats of the UB for exposed areas that get a lot of road rash.

The aerosols are large and work very well as they come with long tubes with a good nozzle. You can also buy it in bulk containers if you prefer.
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Old 27th August 2020, 07:26   #7
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I've used the Bilt Hamner to good effect. As above, the long 360 degree spray nozzles will get into confined and distant spaces (sills) a treat. It goes a long way too. One can did the innards of all the rear suspension, two sills and spare for touching up, with loads dribbling out of the sill drain holes!
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Old 27th August 2020, 07:43   #8
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+1 for Bilt Hamber.

I don't think there's a duff product in their entire range.

Having said that I think the original rustproofing was Dinitrol so using that would be compatible with anything still left. Happy to be corrected if it wasn't Dinitrol that was originally used.

Andy.
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Old 27th August 2020, 08:10   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverbarmy View Post
I've used the Bilt Hamner to good effect. As above, the long 360 degree spray nozzles will get into confined and distant spaces (sills) a treat. It goes a long way too. One can did the innards of all the rear suspension, two sills and spare for touching up, with loads dribbling out of the sill drain holes!
Bilt Hamner for me as well, I used the UB for the sills and i treated these through the drain holes and through the grommet in the rear wheel arch - there is also a very small gap when all the panels join there as well which leads into the sills.

I used the clear for the under the wheel arches.

If you use the sill drain holes, leave some cardboard or rags down for a few hours afterwards...
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Old 27th August 2020, 08:18   #10
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I used Bilt hamber too, one large can (750 ml) split between the two sills with the flexi tube, a good warm or hot sunny day ideally so the metalwork is warm and I also warmed up the can in a jug of water (probably not needed, and not recommended by the manufacturer, so don't do it) I gradually worked my way along the sill using the drain holes and stopped when the excess dripped from the drain holes, leave if for a while to set then make sure the drain holes are not clogged, after all that's what they are there for.
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