Rear Spring and Damper Nyloc Nut Replacements

JefferiesFarnol · 7th September 2021, 15:48

Hello chaps,

I've just ordered all the stuff to renew the rear springs and dampers on my 75 Tourer (I've already been through the rigmarole of identifying the right ones). For the springs I read the great tutorial by 'podge' who quite rightly recommends buying replacement nyloc nuts and I just wondered if anybody could tell me the sizes needed so I can get them in advance.

For the dampers, I'm replacing both whole assemblies so I've already ordered the three nuts for that and new damper bolts but are there any others?

xsport · 7th September 2021, 19:03

if you have bought the top mount fasteners then there is only one bolt to the hub to complete the job. i have just had mine off a few weeks ago and i was warned by other members on here to be care full when re assembling the bolts back into the hub. be carefull you dont cross thread this bolt as it will be a nightmare. clean up well the threads and slap copper grease on before you start them off. i listened to this advice from a few members on here and im gald i did ..

JefferiesFarnol · 8th September 2021, 11:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by xsport

if you have bought the top mount fasteners then there is only one bolt to the hub to complete the job. i have just had mine off a few weeks ago and i was warned by other members on here to be care full when re assembling the bolts back into the hub. be carefull you dont cross thread this bolt as it will be a nightmare. clean up well the threads and slap copper grease on before you start them off. i listened to this advice from a few members on here and im gald i did ..

Will do, thanks for the advice!

the dutch guy · 24th September 2021, 19:52

slight highjacking instead of making a new topic as i have a related issue.

i bought the right springs for my tourer but ran into a related issue.

i simply cannot get the bolt that holds the shock to the hub loose. i have tried heat (not too much, dont want to kill the rubber) and putting my full weight on a bolt snapping sized breaker bar to get that 18mm bolt to come off but it simply will not yield. i am seriously afraid to snap the bolt (wich would be REAAAAAALLLLY bad) considering the force i need to apply. is this normal? any bright ideas to get the hub low enough to remove the spring? i already cut down some spring tensioners to fit the room to help get the load off the spring but it simply is not enough slack to just get it out without lowering the suspention more.

and yes, it really needs replacing, the current hub-arch-distance is 32cm.

or should i just go to the local rover guy and let him sort it out?

xsport · 24th September 2021, 20:48

have you tried leaving the bolt to soak for a day or so with plusgas first. then you could try hitting the bolt on the flat of the head with a sturdy hammer a few times to give it some shock impact , and then try to tighten the bolt first before attempting to release it. do it a few times first before attempting its release again. if and when you do get the bolt out make sure its clean and copperslipped and dont cross thread it . regarding the spring removal.if you undo the two subframe bolts on the opposite side of the subframe to the spring, and unscrew them a few turns only , then undo the two on the opposite subframe side where the spring is and unscrew them down the subframe should drop on that side enough to release the spring.make sure you dont unscrew too far on the non spring side when you unscrew them. there is a post on here somewhere but you get the idea.

xsport · 24th September 2021, 21:37

there are quite a few threads on here regarding these damper bolts.do a search on the forum google. they are "dog nose bolts" I.I.R the bolts are not threaded right up to the end , instead having a taper that fits into an open void. this is where the rust embeds itself as the hole is open to the elements. i know that some members have had the threads pick up on removal of the bolt and had to run a tap through first before putting the bolt back in upon re assembly. i was lucky with mine and this did not happen but i was worried in case it did as the threads are into cast iron. i dont know if you could try any rust breaking tactics through the open end first with spray or heat or shock impact as i said i was fortunate as mine came out ok but was extremely tight. patience is as its said a virtue. ...

the dutch guy · 25th September 2021, 09:05

yes, i have read several posts about getting the springs out already. and i have already started soaking that bolt for 2 days prior every couple hours as recommended. sadly no luck so far. neither my electric nut buster (i gave up on air long ago) in both directions nor my cheater bar with my full weight on it is doing it. i dont want to extend the cheater bar and risk breaking the bolt. this is my only car so if it snaps i am solid in the FUBAR section.

i might see if i can get the shock top nut off instead.

side question: who's idea was it to make that bolt 18mm?

7th September 2021, 15:48	#1
JefferiesFarnol Avid contributor Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Aug 2021 Location: Canterbury Posts: 166 Thanks: 64 Thanked 18 Times in 15 Posts	Rear Spring and Damper Nyloc Nut Replacements Hello chaps, I've just ordered all the stuff to renew the rear springs and dampers on my 75 Tourer (I've already been through the rigmarole of identifying the right ones). For the springs I read the great tutorial by 'podge' who quite rightly recommends buying replacement nyloc nuts and I just wondered if anybody could tell me the sizes needed so I can get them in advance. For the dampers, I'm replacing both whole assemblies so I've already ordered the three nuts for that and new damper bolts but are there any others?

24th September 2021, 19:52	#4
the dutch guy Newbie 75 Join Date: Jan 2019 Location: Greenbridge, Essex Posts: 21 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts	slight highjacking instead of making a new topic as i have a related issue. i bought the right springs for my tourer but ran into a related issue. i simply cannot get the bolt that holds the shock to the hub loose. i have tried heat (not too much, dont want to kill the rubber) and putting my full weight on a bolt snapping sized breaker bar to get that 18mm bolt to come off but it simply will not yield. i am seriously afraid to snap the bolt (wich would be REAAAAAALLLLY bad) considering the force i need to apply. is this normal? any bright ideas to get the hub low enough to remove the spring? i already cut down some spring tensioners to fit the room to help get the load off the spring but it simply is not enough slack to just get it out without lowering the suspention more. and yes, it really needs replacing, the current hub-arch-distance is 32cm. or should i just go to the local rover guy and let him sort it out? Last edited by the dutch guy; 24th September 2021 at 19:54..

24th September 2021, 20:48	#5
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,636 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	have you tried leaving the bolt to soak for a day or so with plusgas first. then you could try hitting the bolt on the flat of the head with a sturdy hammer a few times to give it some shock impact , and then try to tighten the bolt first before attempting to release it. do it a few times first before attempting its release again. if and when you do get the bolt out make sure its clean and copperslipped and dont cross thread it . regarding the spring removal.if you undo the two subframe bolts on the opposite side of the subframe to the spring, and unscrew them a few turns only , then undo the two on the opposite subframe side where the spring is and unscrew them down the subframe should drop on that side enough to release the spring.make sure you dont unscrew too far on the non spring side when you unscrew them. there is a post on here somewhere but you get the idea. Last edited by xsport; 24th September 2021 at 20:51..

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7th September 2021, 19:03	#2
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,636 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	if you have bought the top mount fasteners then there is only one bolt to the hub to complete the job. i have just had mine off a few weeks ago and i was warned by other members on here to be care full when re assembling the bolts back into the hub. be carefull you dont cross thread this bolt as it will be a nightmare. clean up well the threads and slap copper grease on before you start them off. i listened to this advice from a few members on here and im gald i did ..

24th September 2021, 21:37	#6
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,636 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	there are quite a few threads on here regarding these damper bolts.do a search on the forum google. they are "dog nose bolts" I.I.R the bolts are not threaded right up to the end , instead having a taper that fits into an open void. this is where the rust embeds itself as the hole is open to the elements. i know that some members have had the threads pick up on removal of the bolt and had to run a tap through first before putting the bolt back in upon re assembly. i was lucky with mine and this did not happen but i was worried in case it did as the threads are into cast iron. i dont know if you could try any rust breaking tactics through the open end first with spray or heat or shock impact as i said i was fortunate as mine came out ok but was extremely tight. patience is as its said a virtue. ...

25th September 2021, 09:05	#7
the dutch guy Newbie 75 Join Date: Jan 2019 Location: Greenbridge, Essex Posts: 21 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts	yes, i have read several posts about getting the springs out already. and i have already started soaking that bolt for 2 days prior every couple hours as recommended. sadly no luck so far. neither my electric nut buster (i gave up on air long ago) in both directions nor my cheater bar with my full weight on it is doing it. i dont want to extend the cheater bar and risk breaking the bolt. this is my only car so if it snaps i am solid in the FUBAR section. i might see if i can get the shock top nut off instead. side question: who's idea was it to make that bolt 18mm?