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Old 22nd August 2020, 16:07   #1
HarryM1BYT
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Default Is there a chemist in the group (chemical Q)

I bought a gallon of what was supposed to be a canvas (tent/ awning) water proofing solution from a Lancs. chemical supply company. I applied it and it made no difference at all to the waterproof qualities of anything I tried it with, including the awning, so I suspect the solution has zero waterproofing ability. I basically wasted an entire day applying it, to no effect. It goes on, soaks in and simply evaporates.

It had a smell I recognised, but I could not place, until I checked the chemical code on the label - UN1300/1 UN1300 translates to turpentine substitute, does the /1 change anything?

Turpentine substitute has no waterproofing qualities that I am aware of at all, so I suspect I may have been duped.
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Old 22nd August 2020, 16:10   #2
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They may have made a simple mistake, have a word with them.

This may be worth trying https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1405326435?...yABEgIRbvD_BwE

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Old 22nd August 2020, 17:28   #3
HarryM1BYT
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They may have made a simple mistake, have a word with them.
The smell, the feel of the solution match the chemical code on the label UN1300 which is Turps substitute. I just wondered what difference the /1 at end of the code means, before complaining that the stuff is totally useless.
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Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing.

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Old 22nd August 2020, 17:29   #4
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T-Cut's a chemist I believe Harry
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Old 22nd August 2020, 19:33   #5
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The UN numbers are United Nations Hazchem (hazardous substance) codes that relate to chemicals that present a potential hazard during transportation (road/rail/etc). They identify things like water pollutants or flammabie liquids. The UN1300 relates to 'Turpentine Substitute', which suggests a solvent such as White Spirits (the classic 'turps substitute'). I don't know what the code starting with '1' is, but it looks like the same thing.

Fabric waterproofing agents of the type involved here are typically hydrocarbon solutions of, or water based emusions/suspensions of paraffin wax. Basically, you apply the liquid in some way (dipping/brushing/etc) and the wax is deposited onto the fabric by evaporation of the solvent/water/etc. Some treatments do a similar thing using a silicone instead of paraffin wax. The basic principles are the same whatever, you prevent rain water from 'wetting' and then soaking through the fabric by using a 'repellant' film. The fabric to which it's applied must be designed as 'waterproof'. The weave has to be very tight. A porous fabric isn't made waterproof by blocking up the pores, it doesn't work like that. It's down to the surface tension of water and its contact angle with the surface. If anyone needs more detail on these I'm sure Wikipedia will have it. I guess whether a treatment works well or not depends on the condition of the fabric being treated, how well it's applied and how good a formula it is. If the results are nothing like you expect then you should contact the suppler for advice/comment.



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Old 22nd August 2020, 19:51   #6
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Thanks!

I bought it for my awning which is newish and obviously designed with a waterproof fabric. It was just allowing a small amount of rain through the fabric, under continuous rain. It was becoming wetted. So I thought to reproof it when I got back home, ordered a gallon (much more than it would need) of reproofing solution from a chemical company.

I applied it thoroughly on Friday to both the awning and an anorak I had which had once been waterproof and needed reproofing. I gave all a really good soaking. Both dried quickly in the sun and it remained dry until Saturday (yesterday). Both items became wetted when it rained on Saturday, just has they had before treating them - there was absolutely no sign of water beading up, to run off as I would expect. I have reproofed things before and it has always worked well before.
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Old 22nd August 2020, 20:08   #7
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It sounds like the stuff you bought doesn't have a very high 'solids content'. Is it a clear solution in appearance or is it a white, milk like liquid? Paraffin wax emulsions are water based and white, though there may be some white spirit like solvent in it as well.



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Old 22nd August 2020, 21:22   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Cut View Post
It sounds like the stuff you bought doesn't have a very high 'solids content'. Is it a clear solution in appearance or is it a white, milk like liquid? Paraffin wax emulsions are water based and white, though there may be some white spirit like solvent in it as well.



TC
Perfectly clear with a slight yellow tinge. I poured a little in a saucer, left it to evaporate and there was no residue at all left once it evaporated.

I have emailed the company to complain/ request a refund if they cannot offer an explanation.
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How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses...

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540

Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing.

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Old 23rd August 2020, 00:34   #9
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All I know about chemistry is that if it goes bang, it's usually a bad sign.
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Old 23rd August 2020, 07:42   #10
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Hi,
No way am I a chemist, but looked up UN1301, which is vinyl acetate stabilised.

What is vinyl acetate used for?
Vinyl acetate is used to make other industrial chemicals. These chemicals are used mainly to make glues for the packaging and building industries. They are also used to make paints, textiles, and paper. Vinyl acetate is also used as a coating in plastic films for food packaging and as a modifier of food starch.

No idea if that helps.
Could it be the water proofing that is left after the turps evaporates?

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