V6 oil cooler bypass

[thanos.m]

Hello everyone,
I've been having sludge issues with my V6 and now I Just got it back from the mechanic having done thermostat and plugs I had also asked to bypass the oil cooler to eliminate it as an issue but in the end he didn't because he said he didn't like the way the pipes sat and he was afraid that it may overheat with current heatwave.
On the other hand a family friend MGR mechanic from Greece told me to simply bypass it and that it is more of a liability than anything and he no issues with cars even in the Greek summer heat.
As I'm in verge of losing my pentiance with this car and having spent eye watering amounts on it the past month before I splash the cash
for a new oil cooler what would be the best way of bypassing the oil cooler is just a simple case of connecting the 2 hoses together and putting a hose clamp over over them or is there anything more to it ?

[xsport]

your first port of call would be to adress this sludge issue. something is very wrong here. if your regularly changing oil and filter as per service dictates and are using the correct oil and filters recommended then you have big issues. could it have had problems that have not been adressed for a long period of time ? i dont think bypassing the oil cooler at this point will get you any further until you first sort this out . xsport

[thanos.m]

Originally Posted by xsport

your first port of call would be to adress this sludge issue. something is very wrong here. if your regularly changing oil and filter as per service dictates and are using the correct oil and filters recommended then you have big issues. could it have had problems that have not been adressed for a long period of time ? i dont think bypassing the oil cooler at this point will get you any further until you first sort this out . xsport

That's why I want to bypass the oil cooler everything points to the oil cooler as being the cause of the sludge oil changes are done every 6 months or 3k miles and I did an extra one to change to 10w-40 from 0w-40

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by thanos.m

... everything points to the oil cooler as being the cause of the sludge ..

What's your thinking here Thanos?

The topics I'd consider are has the engine been run with a stuck open thermostat or one rated below the specified 88 degrees? Do you frequently drive for very short distances from a cold start?

To remove the sludge, I'd recommend a couple of doses of Comma Flush Out. Have you tried that? I'd also not deviate from 10W40 which is perfectly satisfactory for the KV6 (0W40 is not specified by MGR and unnecessary in the UK climate). Use of 10W40 will not be the cause of sludge I'm afraid.

From your thread in early July:

Originally Posted by thanos.m

No idea on the mileage as this car had an engine replacement in 2016 the engine ... is said to be a reconditioned unit ...

Oh dear, that's not very encouraging news.

Simon

[thanos.m]

Originally Posted by SD1too

What's your thinking here Thanos?

The topics I'd consider are has the engine been run with a stuck open thermostat or one rated below the specified 88 degrees? Do you frequently drive for very short distances from a cold start?

To remove the sludge, I'd recommend a couple of doses of Comma Flush Out. Have you tried that? I'd also not deviate from 10W40 which is perfectly satisfactory for the KV6 (0W40 is not specified by MGR and unnecessary in the UK climate). Use of 10W40 will not be the cause of sludge I'm afraid.

From your thread in early July:

Oh dear, that's not very encouraging news.

Simon

The engine was flushed and changed to castrol gtx 10w-40 every person I've talked with so far has said the chances are that the oil cooler has failed hence the mixing up of water an oil that's why I want to bypass it see if that clear it up.
The car did get up to temp so I dont think it was stuck open but it was leaking.
It doesn't seem to make difference whether I've driven short distances or motorway journeys the is sludge coming up at the oil cap but the oil in the sump is clean and there were no signs of water on the oil that came out.
Everyone I've talked also has rulled out head gaskets on the v6 and if I'm honest no signs of it being gone coolant does not bubble no smoke no loss of power the engine runs super nice especially after the flush and the switch to 10w-40

[stocktake]

I believe if we substitute the word sludge for Mayo or oil/water mix, then the situation makes sense

[thanos.m]

Originally Posted by stocktake

I believe if we substitute the word sludge for Mayo or oil/water mix, then the situation makes sense

Yeah sorry that was my bad I should have said mayo on the oil cap

[thanos.m]

I've heard 2 options of bypassing it either connect the 2 water hoses with a sleeve or delete one of the oil pipes coming to it and loop the other back to the oil filter but I don't know if the threads would allow this

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by thanos.m

... the chances are that the oil cooler has failed hence the mixing up of water an oil ...

This theory wouldn't produce mayo only in the oil filler cap. You would get cross contamination in either the sump or expansion tank or both! You've reported that:

Originally Posted by thanos.m

.... the oil in the sump is clean and there were no signs of water on the oil ...

In your previous thread you said that the coolant was "crystal clear".
The evidence just isn't there to suspect an oil cooler fault.

So what's more likely? Mayo in the cam covers will occur if the engine isn't getting hot enough. I'd suggest the following:

• Monitor the IPK diagnostics to check that your running temperature is mid nineties, rising to 100 when stationary in traffic.
• Remove your cam covers and unblock the pinhole restrictor behind the output gauze filter. Wash or renew the filters if contaminated with solid matter.

Please let us know how you get on.

Simon

[thanos.m]

Originally Posted by SD1too

This theory wouldn't produce mayo only in the oil filler cap. You would get cross contamination in either the sump or expansion tank or both! You've reported that:

In your previous thread you said that the coolant was "crystal clear".
The evidence just isn't there to suspect an oil cooler fault.

So what's more likely? Mayo in the cam covers will occur if the engine isn't getting hot enough. I'd suggest the following:

• Monitor the IPK diagnostics to check that your running temperature is mid nineties, rising to 100 when stationary in traffic.
• Remove your cam covers and unblock the pinhole restrictor behind the output gauze filter. Wash or renew the filters if contaminated with solid matter.

Please let us know how you get on.

Simon

Temp is as it should it went up to 100 and as soon as it hit 100 it dropped back to 94 I tried holding the revs up and again it hit 100 and dropped back to 97 so I know that there isn't an issue I guess now with no leaks and a working thermostat I should monitor coolant level see if it drops at all and if the mayo clears out
Edit: I threw the old thermostat in boiling water and it did open up so I think it rules out the thermostat theory