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Old 10th December 2020, 19:59   #31
clf
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Originally Posted by 75driver View Post
Clf...have you a photo?


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a few and some videos! lol



more images HERE, along with videos showing the water tightness.

I think this was a first line brand, but they all looked the same.



with other images HERE

If anyone was interested, a real time video is shown HERE (watching paint dry really is more interesting though, but it shows the effects of a slow opening OEM stat, with an assumed to be failed inline stat - at least letting too much coolant by)

Quote:
Originally Posted by squire View Post
Do you have a link for the wahler stat, I have a DMGRS top hose stat, heater works ok but I'd prefer the engine ran a bit hotter, best I ever get is 86°. Thanks.

Martyn
If you are maintaining 86 degrees, leave it as it is. The Wahler will not do much better. You will nto feel any benefit in heat, and will perhaps get a microscopic improvement in fuel economy. It would not be worth to open it all up again to risk damaging components (my opinion only).

One online store - I did get mine via eBay.

They did do a 92 degree version, but I would love to get my hands on one -LINK.
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Old 10th December 2020, 20:09   #32
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Originally Posted by macafee2 View Post
while you are all talking degrees could you please tell me where your temperature needle sits?

I have never looked at the digital temperature, just the needle so have no idea what mine gets so and go solely by the needle, hence I ask where your needle sits.

Unless I get to a motorway or a long run my car does not get very hot as my speed is no more then 50 for a mile or so and then 40 perhaps for 4 to 5 miles and 30 for mile and a half.

macafee2
I have a eZee display, as I damaged my coolant needle changing the needles but it is more useful anyway. This is why I can monitor it so quickly and often.

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Originally Posted by macafee2 View Post
TC, I have had a go at following these instructions https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...ght=diagnostic

First time I have ever tried to go to diagnostic mode.

My engine was cold as it has been standing for a few days. My outside temperature was showing 7.5 when not in diagnostic mode, in diagnostic mode section 7 my coolant showed as ---000 I would have expected similar to 7.5.
Is 000 what you would expect on a cold engine?

macafee2
did you press the mileage button when it displayed 'off' and then cycle through to 7 again? I believe it will display 000 if you do NOT do the press at off.

Incidentally, I expected mine to show at least the same coolant temp as outside when left for a period of time, but in cold weather I have seen it as 2 degrees lower, and in warm weather 5 and even 8 higher (the times I noticed)! Latent heat capacity of the block?
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Old 10th December 2020, 20:22   #33
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Originally Posted by clf View Post
I have a eZee display, as I damaged my coolant needle changing the needles but it is more useful anyway. This is why I can monitor it so quickly and often.



did you press the mileage button when it displayed 'off' and then cycle through to 7 again? I believe it will display 000 if you do NOT do the press at off.

Incidentally, I expected mine to show at least the same coolant temp as outside when left for a period of time, but in cold weather I have seen it as 2 degrees lower, and in warm weather 5 and even 8 higher (the times I noticed)! Latent heat capacity of the block?
I thought it was at off. I will try again, thanks

Is this how they connect "only 3 wires to connect, red to power, black to earth and last to K bus wire behind radio, red/white stripe with a yellow band around the cable every 3 inches or so, this is the cable that takes the data from the OBD" If of course colours are Red and black but I found these instructions on another forum thread

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Old 10th December 2020, 20:32   #34
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I thought it was at off. I will try again, thanks

Is this how they connect "only 3 wires to connect, red to power, black to earth and last to K bus wire behind radio, red/white stripe with a yellow band around the cable every 3 inches or so, this is the cable that takes the data from the OBD" If of course colours are Red and black but I found these instructions on another forum thread

macafee2
it was something like that. I cannot remember the colours, but they sound correct. It was relatively simple, once the striped wire was found (near to the radio wiring). I did add a 3 pin quick release plug and socket to allow me to remove the dash components easily though.
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Old 10th December 2020, 20:32   #35
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Originally Posted by clf View Post
I have a eZee display, as I damaged my coolant needle changing the needles but it is more useful anyway. This is why I can monitor it so quickly and often.



did you press the mileage button when it displayed 'off' and then cycle through to 7 again? I believe it will display 000 if you do NOT do the press at off.

Incidentally, I expected mine to show at least the same coolant temp as outside when left for a period of time, but in cold weather I have seen it as 2 degrees lower, and in warm weather 5 and even 8 higher (the times I noticed)! Latent heat capacity of the block?

Tried it again a couple of times and still got 000, tried on my other car and also got 000. I will try another day once I have used the car

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Old 10th December 2020, 20:58   #36
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Tried it again a couple of times and still got 000, tried on my other car and also got 000. I will try another day once I have used the car

macafee2
How long did you wait with the engine running? You should see a change during the first minute.

I think you have done what I used to do (which I missed above).

Hold the button in,

when the display changes,

press it repeatedly (not too quickly though) until it reaches 19,

then pause.

The screen will alternate between on and off.

When off is displayed, press the button once. (if you press it at on, you will need to start again)

It will return to the beginning again.

Press repeatedly as before, until you reach number 7, then release. This will be the live data.
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Old 10th December 2020, 21:46   #37
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Originally Posted by clf View Post
How long did you wait with the engine running? You should see a change during the first minute.

I think you have done what I used to do (which I missed above).

Hold the button in,

when the display changes,

press it repeatedly (not too quickly though) until it reaches 19,

then pause.

The screen will alternate between on and off.

When off is displayed, press the button once. (if you press it at on, you will need to start again)

It will return to the beginning again.

Press repeatedly as before, until you reach number 7, then release. This will be the live data.
Engine was off and cold but as outside temp was showing as 7.5 I expected the diagnostics to show similar. Perhaps I pressed too quickly but I thought I had to be quick

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Old 10th December 2020, 22:47   #38
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Engine was off and cold but as outside temp was showing as 7.5 I expected the diagnostics to show similar. Perhaps I pressed too quickly but I thought I had to be quick

macafee2
engine on, or at least the ignition on - that is your problem lol.
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Old 11th December 2020, 07:26   #39
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engine on, or at least the ignition on - that is your problem lol.
I had the key turned to position 1 so the dashboard lights came on. The instructions indicate I can do the diagnostics with engine off and key in this position but I don't know if I can do this test with engine cold.

I will probably use the car soon so will try again

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Old 11th December 2020, 08:07   #40
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Its all about timing. (Isnt it always) Also dont press it to hard as it likes to be coaxed not bullied. But getting back to Chris's problem. I think he as a leak by problem. Either th push in stat or th pipe around it isnt quite water tight. A snug fit always th best way. Like i said earlier try a jubilee clip around th top hose but dont screw it up to hard that it splits th rubber.....

Or are we talking about something completely different here....!!!!!!
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