V6 2.0 downpipe.... oh *****

biffa75 · 25th March 2016, 17:22

Hi all...

Ive just replaced the exhaust cat, mid section and backbox due to the cat being rattly and the back box. Baffles being shot.
Having managed to get those stupid braces off underneath, old unit out and new one on etc etc... as we fitted the caat section to the front downpipe flange one stud snapped! There was enough thread left to be cleaned up with a die to allow me to fit a bolt on as a "temporary measure" so i can use the car still.
Question is what do i do next?..

1)replace downpipe i.e ebay and risk snapping a stud in the head?
Or...
2) cut the end of the stud off so its flush with the flange... drill it out and use a nut and bolt arrangement?. ( seams the safest bet).

Other question also is... the exhaust is blowing where that bulge round end of the downpipe meets the cat section. We have tried to move around the cat etc but it continues to blow slightly. It appears to ease slightly when the engine is warmed up. What solution do i have?

Thanks
Rob

gary t · 25th March 2016, 17:57

i would drill out and fit with nut and bolt. as for blowing i would give it week or two and see if it seals by it self.

Bolin · 25th March 2016, 22:32

The manifold studs are a press fit, so you should be able to tap/knock the remains out - but they might be rusted in firmly and difficult to get at on the car. The other problem is what damage any tapping/knocking does to the rest of the exhaust manifold.

If you do get it out OK, then you can fit a brand new stud. Still available from Rimmers.

It would be cheaper and maybe easier and potentially less damaging to drill out and fit a nut and bolt though.

Dragrad · 26th March 2016, 01:14

Thread moved to a more appropriate forum. Re-direct left in old. This may be the better forum as threads get ‘lost’ very quickly in the General Forum.

SD1too · 26th March 2016, 14:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by biffa75

... the exhaust is blowing where that bulge round end of the downpipe meets the cat section. It appears to ease slightly when the engine is warmed up. What solution do i have?

Undo the joint, apply exhaust jointing paste (not Gun Gum or hole repair paste) and reassemble. Ensure that all sections are properly aligned.

Simon

mh007 · 26th March 2016, 14:23

I wouldn't recommend using any kind of paste (including gun gum) before the cat.

murphyv310 · 26th March 2016, 19:49

Hi.
I also wouldn't use paste on the pre-cat joints, just use new gaskets. Re the broken stud, I think you will be very very lucky to drill it out and I'd not be inclined to hit it with a hammer as it will never move with the manifold still in situ.
Best is to remove the manifold and get some heat on it and try and press it out.

midget · 26th March 2016, 20:10

drill it out it be easier

murphyv310 · 27th March 2016, 13:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by midget

drill it out it be easier

These are very hard bolts/studs. I tried to drill mine out and gave up. Took the manifold off and pressed it out in the vice once I got the manifold hot enough.

DMGRS · 27th March 2016, 14:47

Use a nut and bolt. The OE downpipe assembly is far greater in quality than aftermarket - you'll probably have endless fun trying to get a cheaper copy to fit.

25th March 2016, 17:22	#1
biffa75 Trader Mk1 2004 tourer cdti + MK1 2003 Saloon CDT Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: west yorkshire Posts: 493 Thanks: 106 Thanked 91 Times in 57 Posts	V6 2.0 downpipe.... oh ***** Hi all... Ive just replaced the exhaust cat, mid section and backbox due to the cat being rattly and the back box. Baffles being shot. Having managed to get those stupid braces off underneath, old unit out and new one on etc etc... as we fitted the caat section to the front downpipe flange one stud snapped! There was enough thread left to be cleaned up with a die to allow me to fit a bolt on as a "temporary measure" so i can use the car still. Question is what do i do next?.. 1)replace downpipe i.e ebay and risk snapping a stud in the head? Or... 2) cut the end of the stud off so its flush with the flange... drill it out and use a nut and bolt arrangement?. ( seams the safest bet). Other question also is... the exhaust is blowing where that bulge round end of the downpipe meets the cat section. We have tried to move around the cat etc but it continues to blow slightly. It appears to ease slightly when the engine is warmed up. What solution do i have? Thanks Rob

25th March 2016, 17:57	#2
gary t Loves to post rover 75 connoisseur se v6 Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: brockworth Posts: 278 Thanks: 46 Thanked 23 Times in 20 Posts	nut and bolt i would drill out and fit with nut and bolt. as for blowing i would give it week or two and see if it seals by it self.

25th March 2016, 22:32	#3
Bolin This is my second home Rover 75 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE 4dr manual Wedgewood Blue 2 04-05/06/2001 Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: N.E. Hampshire Posts: 4,617 Thanks: 289 Thanked 308 Times in 243 Posts	The manifold studs are a press fit, so you should be able to tap/knock the remains out - but they might be rusted in firmly and difficult to get at on the car. The other problem is what damage any tapping/knocking does to the rest of the exhaust manifold. If you do get it out OK, then you can fit a brand new stud. Still available from Rimmers. It would be cheaper and maybe easier and potentially less damaging to drill out and fit a nut and bolt though. __________________ "...the new Rover 75, which is a fabulous car......I think it looks fabulous....It's like sitting in a Rolls Royce......For me, this is the star of the show.....it looks so good" - J. Clarkson, motoring journalist on the launch of the Rover 75 in 1998.

26th March 2016, 01:14	#4
Dragrad This is my second home *None DROWNED** Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Cardigan Posts: 33,339 Thanks: 1,257 Thanked 1,664 Times in 1,081 Posts	Thread moved to a more appropriate forum. Re-direct left in old. This may be the better forum as threads get ‘lost’ very quickly in the General Forum. __________________ Andrew Ich Dien Problem solving is... lateral thinking SEARCH FIRST ...ASK LATER...

26th March 2016, 19:49	#7
murphyv310 This is my second home Hyundai i10 998cc Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Kilmarnock Posts: 6,602 Thanks: 2,088 Thanked 2,298 Times in 1,349 Posts	Hi. I also wouldn't use paste on the pre-cat joints, just use new gaskets. Re the broken stud, I think you will be very very lucky to drill it out and I'd not be inclined to hit it with a hammer as it will never move with the manifold still in situ. Best is to remove the manifold and get some heat on it and try and press it out. __________________ Cheers from Trevor MM0KJJ

26th March 2016, 14:23	#6
mh007 This is my second home MG ZT260 SE, MG ZT190+, MG ZTT 160, R75 Conn SE 2.0, R75 Conn SE 2.5 X 3, R75 Club SE 1.8, P5B Coupe Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Keynsham, Bristol Posts: 4,211 Thanks: 65 Thanked 635 Times in 499 Posts	I wouldn't recommend using any kind of paste (including gun gum) before the cat.

26th March 2016, 20:10	#8
midget Regular poster rover 75 Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: birmingham Posts: 93 Thanks: 2 Thanked 12 Times in 8 Posts	drill it out it be easier

27th March 2016, 14:47	#10
DMGRS Discount MG Rover Spares Rover 75 CDTi, 2x MG ZS180 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Hythe, Southampton Posts: 11,320 Thanks: 456 Thanked 3,377 Times in 2,027 Posts	Use a nut and bolt. The OE downpipe assembly is far greater in quality than aftermarket - you'll probably have endless fun trying to get a cheaper copy to fit. __________________ Your trusted MG Rover specialist! Tel: 02380 001133 / Email: [email protected] We now have a 'chat' function on our site for even quicker replies. Give it a try! Remember - discount code FORUM5 for 5% off

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