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Old 2nd September 2020, 22:33   #11
ADO282
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Originally Posted by Jamiewelch View Post
Haha, put simply its the BMW dealer diagnostic system, like the T4 was the Rover dealer diagnostic system.

Bumping the voltage up can potentially get some charge in an iffy battery, but it’s by no means something that should really be done. There’s more to the intelligent charging system than that though

How does this intelligent charging system differ from a standard system Jamie?

I always thought that overcharging a battery was not good for it's health, of course things have come along in leaps and bounds since the Lucas 15 ACR, but I'm confused as to how increasing the voltage can help????


Surely if you increase the voltage, the current flow also increases, which could potentially boil the electrolyte and overheat the plates in the battery?? or is this too simplistic a view.
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Old 3rd September 2020, 08:53   #12
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Originally Posted by ADO282 View Post
How does this intelligent charging system differ from a standard system Jamie?

I always thought that overcharging a battery was not good for it's health, of course things have come along in leaps and bounds since the Lucas 15 ACR, but I'm confused as to how increasing the voltage can help????


Surely if you increase the voltage, the current flow also increases, which could potentially boil the electrolyte and overheat the plates in the battery?? or is this too simplistic a view.
To be honest not entirely sure how it works. I just remember someone mentioning the voltage increases as the battery gets older. I don't think it would be a huge amount.

Or it might be that it simply doesn't charge the battery if it thinks it is full, reducing the load on the alternator. I'm not entirely sure how it all works, I just know that if you fit a new battery you have to tell the car it is new, and it you change the size / type you have to change the VO to reflect this.

The IBS does have one nice feature, when the voltage gets a bit low it turns off all the extra electrical items that aren't needed to try and keep enough power in the battery to start the car.
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Old 3rd September 2020, 09:23   #13
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Could this be what's happened to the OP's BMW ?
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Old 3rd September 2020, 10:47   #14
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Could this be what's happened to the OP's BMW ?
Potentially, a common test for electrical issues is to unplug the IBS.
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Old 3rd September 2020, 11:40   #15
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Some good info on the BMW intelligent battery sensor (IBS) in this link here. Click
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Old 3rd September 2020, 22:01   #16
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Some good info on the BMW intelligent battery sensor (IBS) in this link here. Click
As you say Willy SOME good info but lots of not so useful info and some quite useless. It's just another hair brained scheme that just doesn't cut it.---

It might be marketed under the BMW banner but I'm sure it wasn't developed by them.

It's a sort of gimmicky idea like companies making additives to add to your engine oil or water jacket crack sealing compounds. Quite often useless and in some cases damaging.----
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Old 4th September 2020, 06:00   #17
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Hi all not a rover question so hope it's alright to post i have been using my Rover tourer every day now for the past couple of months my BMW x3 2.0d has been sat in the driveway all that time decided to take it out today battery was flat so gave it a jump start only drove a couple of miles when the abs light the handbrake light and the 4x4 light and the tire pressure light all came on but gave it a good run all the same seemed to run fine until i got to the house when the clunking started from the back end it seemed worse in reverse can anyone shed any light on the problem thanks in advance
Hi up until this year I was a BMW technician, and those faults are voltage related, they will always pop up with low voltage or when the battery has been disconnected. The 4x4 system relearns itself. In terms with the clunking, transfer boxes are known to fail on them and can cause clunking on the rear, they are programmed to the vehicle too so 2nd hand units cannot be fitted. I've known rear diffs go before but very very rare. I'd book it into an independent BMW specialist who has the latest ISTA-D software or BMW themselves as there will be codes stored, the BMW diagnostic software will say what to replace.

Though a little tip, if you have access to a ramp or have a good mechanic, get them to unplug the transfer box connector and see if the fault goes away, if it does then the transfer box is screwed. That is an official BMW test procedure that technical used to tell us to do.

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Old 4th September 2020, 08:39   #18
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Hi up until this year I was a BMW technician, and those faults are voltage related, they will always pop up with low voltage or when the battery has been disconnected. The 4x4 system relearns itself. In terms with the clunking, transfer boxes are known to fail on them and can cause clunking on the rear, they are programmed to the vehicle too so 2nd hand units cannot be fitted. I've known rear diffs go before but very very rare. I'd book it into an independent BMW specialist who has the latest ISTA-D software or BMW themselves as there will be codes stored, the BMW diagnostic software will say what to replace.

Though a little tip, if you have access to a ramp or have a good mechanic, get them to unplug the transfer box connector and see if the fault goes away, if it does then the transfer box is screwed. That is an official BMW test procedure that technical used to tell us to do.
thanks for all the input you mention disconnecting the transfer box is it advisable to leave it disconnected it was a great car up until i put it off the road for a couple of months thanks
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Old 4th September 2020, 09:17   #19
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Just 2 minor points really.
Using cars all the time is vital. I’ve used our 3 cars in rotation since March so they all get a run. No issues with the BMW, Peugeot or MGTF.

If you do the simple job of fitting a new battery, don’t do what I did and shut the boot when the battery is disconnected. The battery lives in the boot!
I’m delighted to say I found a method to get into the boot without breaking into the car which is what Cotswold BMW told me to do.
I was amazed they did not know how to get into a BMW. The boot key lock was deleted the year before mine was built hence the problem.

Just say if you need the method.
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Old 4th September 2020, 09:38   #20
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Originally Posted by geo.k23 View Post
thanks for all the input you mention disconnecting the transfer box is it advisable to leave it disconnected it was a great car up until i put it off the road for a couple of months thanks
Well it will bring up a warning light so no I wouldn't leave it disconnected but at least you would know the fault. It will just need replacing And programming then. Is it E series x3 or F series?
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