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Old 7th October 2020, 12:38   #31
AndyN01
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You'll doubtless find this out in your research but changing the PCV doesn't appear in any service schedules.

It's one of those things that can give you a hint about how well any owner knows their car.

1. Do they know what you're asking about?

2. If they do, when was it changed? Receipts/invoices etc. to show?


Similarly, do they know how to test the fan?

Copied from one of Arctic's posts with some extra text and an additional photo ('cus Tinypic has eaten the originals ) and much appreciated

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s....php?p=1939854

......

If you have a diesel car you only need to put the key in the ignition and set it to postion II. You do not have to start the engine unless you prefer to.

Here we go.

With key at position II in the ignition press the demist button on the A/C control. This is the 3rd one from the left, in between the recirculating button and the the heated rear window one (ignore the pen, the photo is from my post about taking the covers off).




Once the demist button has been pressed the A/C control will illuminate and show your settings. Press the blue "down arrow" buttons to show either to low or 16 degrees.

Now you need to look through the front grill and see if the fan is running continuous without pulsing on and off. If it runs continually then the low speed is working.

If not the low speed has failed. .

If your fan is a three speed with no resistor then more than likely the medium speed will not be working either. If you have a fan with a silver resistor the resistor has failed and will need changing to a Gold one.

The same test is carried out on the petrol engines but this time the engine must be running to do the demist test above.


Also, on a diesel, the fuel tank should be kept at least 1/4 full. Lower than this and there's a risk to the in tank pump. The pump itself isn't too costly but it's an absolute pig to replace.

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=108535


Hope that's useful.

Andy.

Last edited by AndyN01; 7th October 2020 at 13:28..
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Old 7th October 2020, 19:43   #32
Mike Noc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyN01 View Post
Also, on a diesel, the fuel tank should be kept at least 1/4 full. Lower than this and there's a risk to the in tank pump. The pump itself isn't too costly but it's an absolute pig to replace.

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=108535


Hope that's useful.

Andy.
An old wives tale Andy. There is no risk to the ITP from running the tank low on fuel, as long as you don't run out of course.

The only advantage of keeping more than a quarter of a tank of fuel onboard is that if the ITP fails you won't notice it as the car will still run.

The ITP typically fails due to a worn commutator, with the brushes still having plenty of life in them.
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Old 7th October 2020, 19:44   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Noc View Post
An old wives tale Andy. There is no risk to the ITP from running the tank low on fuel, as long as you don't run out of course.

The only advantage of keeping more than a quarter of a tank of fuel onboard is that if the ITP fails you won't notice it as the car will still run.

The ITP typically fails due to a worn commutator, with the brushes still having plenty of life in them.
This is true, I run my gold diesel down to fumes regularly and its still on its original pump at 253k
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Old 7th October 2020, 19:52   #34
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This is true, I run my gold diesel down to fumes regularly and its still on its original pump at 253k

I have heard that a certain owner of a blue ztt gets lower than fumes sometimes
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Old 7th October 2020, 19:53   #35
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I have heard that a certain owner of a blue ztt gets lower than fumes sometimes
This has been known
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Old 7th October 2020, 19:56   #36
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This has been known

And i reckon i can run faster than the culprit at the mo lol
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Old 7th October 2020, 20:25   #37
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And i reckon i can run faster than the culprit at the mo lol
No doubt about it, but she has a good memory
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Old 7th October 2020, 22:26   #38
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Many thanks for the further info! Again this is very appreciated! I had actually been reading about the fans only the other day, but your explanation, was easier to take in so I will keep this in mind too.
I have in the past run my cars on fumes when pushed for budget stretching measures or just being a lazy ... But being that I haven't really owned a diesel before (except a 206 1.4 hdi that was completely hopeless that was quickly moved on) just as a precaution I see no harm if I was to keep the tank topped up above the quarter area so if it may help slow/prevent damage, it's worth a try.

Thanks again

Rob
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Old 9th October 2020, 12:02   #39
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Rob, I sent you a PM.
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Old 9th October 2020, 19:02   #40
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View a few get one baught. The 75 has no more or no less than problems and some may say less than others.
Yes my clutch packed up yesterday.
but if I Purchased a 3 year old car that may have packed up yesterday aswel.
And the cost it's all relative. Just because a car doesn't have a large residual value it doesn't mean it's not worth fixing..
So buy one and maintain it just like you would with any other car.
The 75 is a fantastic car I wouldn't part with it.
But ? The diesel is the best
But the petrol on is sadly the one to have.
( Mine is a diesel)
The petrol despite not very economical has the best future on our roads due to the it being easier to get through the emissions in the future .
The diesel if it fails the emissions can be a minefield unless you can sort it yourself mine passes every year but I can take it to bits and rebuild the lot myself.
But this doesn't mean that the petrol is without it's issues.
Do your research ask the questions and get one purchased.
I have 3 children 6 . 9 and 11.
If they are naughty I say behave or il sell the rover.
Then they behave.
We have a fiesta / Nissan Micra and a really nice Mercedes clk convertible .
If I mentioned them then they just carry on messing around.
I know it is not conclusive proof to buy one . It's just a rough guide.
Type rover 75 cdt connoisseur in morfa bychan.
In Google mine is the red one with black grille
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