Cdti overheating

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by MacRob

what about on the classics that have analogue dials. Are they the same?

Yes Rob, the principle is the same. They have a control cable attached to the air blending flap instead of a servo motor. The dial does not need to be set to 'hot'.

Originally Posted by MacRob

Oh and out of interest, where is the engine drain plug?

A diesel owner will be able to help you with that.

Simon

[Phil-Hex]

Going to sort a replacement original stat and swap that over (also removing the top hose one)
To answer the other comments...
Bled properly
Good return flow to header tank once warm and top hose stat opens
Lovely red hot heater, having it going full blast helps keep engine temp down slightly

Pretty much as I was expecting, was just hoping I'd missed something obvious and didn't have to mess about with the original stat

[YHT]

I had an overheating problem after I changed the leaking water pump at which time I replaced the stat housing but removed the stat and the stat mounting arrangement in the housing. It made it much easier to refit as you can slide the stat housing sideways onto the water pump. The car also had an in-line stat fitted so renewed that as it seemed to be stuck shut; drilled a small (2mm) hole in the new stat to allow air to vent as it didn't have a vent hole. There was an air vent on the small house near the battery tray which I used to vent air when filling which seemed to work. The above applies to a 2005 CDTi; my old 2002 diesel didn't have the vent on the hose but did have a fuel burning heater that may have has something to do with the venting??? Since the in-line stat replacement and a run to get fid of any air pockets it seems to be running with the gauge at 9 o'clock Good luck!

[trikey]

The only time I have seen a diesel overheat is when the impeller has become detached from the water pump!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by Phil-Hex

Going to sort a replacement original stat and swap that over (also removing the top hose one)

Phil, it would be really helpful if you'd test the old OEM stat after you've swapped it out. I don't think we've encountered a completely failed diesel stat so far, so it will be informative to see if that has indeed happened. The bulk of OEMs that have been augmented with the inline type appear to have exhibited the early opening characteristic. Running temperature at 60°-70°C in the main. I've done some research into the failure mode of these stats and have anticipated someone eventually suffering a complete failure, so a hot water test on one would be great.


EDIT: Alternatively, if you'd send it to me I'll take a look at the wax inside. PM me if interested.


TC

[Phil-Hex]

hi TC
Sadly i'm cutting my loses with the car and moving on.
its starting to rust through in places it shouldnt, MOT due in a couple of weeks and the times right for a change.
We saved her from being scrapped 5 year ago and done nearly 100,000 in that time so she we dont owe each other anything.
i'll pop her up for sale but realistically shes worth nothing as a complete car compared to the sum of parts.
Being a monogram typhoon the painting costs alone will have people running a mile!!

[Mr bountyfull]

Originally Posted by Phil-Hex

hi TC
Sadly i'm cutting my loses with the car and moving on.
its starting to rust through in places it shouldnt, MOT due in a couple of weeks and the times right for a change.
We saved her from being scrapped 5 year ago and done nearly 100,000 in that time so she we dont owe each other anything.
i'll pop her up for sale but realistically shes worth nothing as a complete car compared to the sum of parts.
Being a monogram typhoon the painting costs alone will have people running a mile!!

Sorry to hear that Phil, what did you do with Rosie?