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Old 13th December 2020, 20:20   #1
biffa75
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Default V6 fuel feed pipe to rail seals?

Hi folks,

I'm having to replace these seals that go from the feed pipe to the injector rail on our V6. The seals had become brittle and crumbled on refitting.

I've now ordered some seals from dmgrs but not sure what order they need to be in when it comes to fitting the new seals. Anyone help?

Thanks
Rob
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Old 13th December 2020, 20:55   #2
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I'm having to replace these seals that go from the feed pipe to the injector rail on our V6.
Hi Rob,

I'd like to help but I don't understand your question. Do you mean the seals between the fuel rail and the injectors, a total of six?

Simon
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Old 14th December 2020, 00:05   #3
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Hi Simon,

Sorry, been working a lot hours and my typings a little off.

The seals in question, are found in the end of the fuel rail, that connect to the feed pipe. The feed pipe clicks in to the metal clip in the fuel rail and there's a yellow, green and brown seal if I remember correctly. I aren't sure which order these seals need to be in when the new seals arrive.

As highlighted as number 5 in the picture

https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/kv6...rover-45-mg-zs

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Old 14th December 2020, 08:12   #4
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Thanks for enlightening me Rob! I didn't know that there were three seals at that connection. I've always detached my fuel supply where the hose from the tank first meets the pipe at the rear of the engine compartment. This is the MG Rover method. What you've done appears to be the Haynes method and I recall that others have had problems with it. So I'm really sorry, I can't help with your question. However, when the seals arrive, if they're different sizes it should become apparent where they go.

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Old 14th December 2020, 08:35   #5
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Question

Thanks Simon,

Not to worry. If I'm honest I followed a few online guides which all showed the fuel feed pipe being disconnected at this point where the feed pipe meets the fuel rail.

When the seals arrive I'll have see what's what then.

Incidently, I didn't know there was an mgr guide for this (or the thermostat removal as that's what I've been doing)

If it's an online post that shows or describes the correct mgr method, would you point in that direction?

Thanks again

Rob
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Old 14th December 2020, 08:55   #6
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Incidently, I didn't know there was an mgr guide for this (or the thermostat removal as that's what I've been doing)
It's their official workshop manual for dealers and you can buy one from Rimmer Bros. Note that it may not work on modern operating systems though. There used to be a paper version which you may be able to track down.

I find that the best way to do something is often a combination of MGR, Haynes and other owners' advice. For example, when removing the fuel rail I leave the injectors in place.

At what stage are you now? I could look at my notes if you like and offer you some hot tips!

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Old 14th December 2020, 09:50   #7
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Originally Posted by biffa75 View Post
Thanks Simon,

Not to worry. If I'm honest I followed a few online guides which all showed the fuel feed pipe being disconnected at this point where the feed pipe meets the fuel rail.

When the seals arrive I'll have see what's what then.

Incidently, I didn't know there was an mgr guide for this (or the thermostat removal as that's what I've been doing)

If it's an online post that shows or describes the correct mgr method, would you point in that direction?

Thanks again

Rob

Pdf copy of the workshop manual: https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s....php?p=2604687

Regards

Last edited by vitesse; 14th December 2020 at 09:54..
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Old 14th December 2020, 10:58   #8
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Originally Posted by biffa75 View Post
The feed pipe clicks into the metal clip in the fuel rail and there's a yellow, green and brown seal if I remember correctly. I aren't sure which order these seals need to be in when the new seals arrive.
From what I've seen on this, there are two o-rings and a plastic spacer. The spacer is easily lost and difficult to replace. This is why you sometimes see feed pipes with three rubber seals to compensate for the gap. This is incorrect since o-rings require the lateral support to work properly. I'd say the colour of the rubber is irrelevant.

Not sure that RAVE helps much in this bit.


TC

Last edited by T-Cut; 14th December 2020 at 11:00..
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Old 14th December 2020, 13:57   #9
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Question

Thanks for the info and links, this is much appreciated. I'll also have a look at Rimmer bros link.
I'm now at the stage of nearly being ready start back up but waiting on the seals and two breather hoses to be delivered as the usual T piece in the breather hose broke but also another nylon hose broke where it connects to the cam cover.

There were 3 seals on the end of the feed pipe and the black plastic spacer I have the metal locking clip and the black plastic space kept safe. Just unsure which order the seals are meant to be in. That's if it matters in which order they are in.

For my first real dig into the kv6 it was a little tricky at times but nothing too bad, just those NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD- upper inlet o rings slow progress down a bit.
I'm just praying that the thermostat doesn't leak after all this work. I'm half expecting it to with it being my first attempt but..

The elbow and thermostat and temp switch, inlet gaskets and o rings and the smaller black o rings have been replaced along with the spark plugs, going to change the air filter and pollen filter and oil and oil filter.

The spark plugs looked to be original with part number starting NLP and a very very small electrode in the centre.

Rob
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Old 14th December 2020, 14:47   #10
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There were 3 seals on the end of the feed pipe and the black plastic spacer
Don't butt two o-rings together, they should have a support spacer between. Isn't there a black collar as well?



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