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4th January 2014, 08:46 | #11 | |
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
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No, not T4 but instrument pack diagnostics as stated in my last post.
Quote:
Simon
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15th January 2014, 11:40 | #12 |
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Thermostat problem
Right this is where we are now.
I took out the heater matrix and found it to be ok. However I have so far been unable to reconnect the top pipe (i just can't get it together) has anyone got any suggestions? I did the Plenum mod and yes there was water in it so thanks for the photo's Arctic. I have been trying to get to the thermostat but after removing the inlet manifold bolts, there must be something else holding it in so I would be grateful for advice on how to get it apart I have the thermostat kit so can anyone help please?
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15th January 2014, 18:31 | #13 | |
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
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Quote:
Simon
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"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. |
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19th January 2014, 12:31 | #14 |
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Heater Thermostat problem
Just a quick update on my progress.
I had some help from my son with this because I tried to check the heater matrix (big mistake) not only was there no problem with it but I couldn't fix the pipes back (good job my son was on hand and managed to do it. We used the Keyhole method for replacing the thermostat that was family straight forward so now to fill it with coolant and fingers crossed no leaks. How much water/coolant does it take by the way?
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19th January 2014, 20:35 | #15 |
Doesn't do things by halves
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KV6 cooling system
Cliff,
First of all, the factory filled cooling systems with a 50% concentration of OAT antifreeze. If you want to change to standard 'blue' antifreeze (not OAT) the manufacturer recommends flushing the cooling system because the anti-corrosion additives in OAT and standard 'blue' antifreeze are apparently incompatible. Also, some members believe that OAT antifreeze at 50% concentration may have a detrimental effect upon 'O' rings in the KV6 engine. Although there is no direct evidence supporting this theory, a reduced concentration of 33% should still be effective (well, it has been in my SD1 for the past 25 years!). Secondly, with a KV6 you must follow the MGR procedure for refilling as follows:
You'll need at least 7.5 litres of coolant. Simon
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23rd January 2014, 07:38 | #16 |
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Thermostat update
Well I've done it it's all up and running again, it's now nice and warm in the car.
I took her on a run of about 80miles yesterday and she seems to be fine now. Thanks to everyone who posted help it was invaluable. I am going to have a look at the diagnostic today, will post findings when I have them. Now all I need to find is the cause of the wet carpet in the rear footwell. It does seem to be drying out, so as I have drained the plenum chamber could that be the cause of the problem? My Son is an Audi master Tech and tells me they are always draining plenums, and they manifest themselves in many varied ways. Could that have been the problem?
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23rd September 2014, 21:27 | #17 | |
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Quote:
I'm glad you got your heater sorted. As your your wet rear carpets water could come in through the rear light seals, the side trims or even rear window surround. Rik.
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"You don't park a ZT, you simply allow it to rest until next time." It may not happen very often but if I say something helpful please hit the "thanks" button as it helps other users. Thank you. No. 16 of only 52 Nocturne Blue 75/ZT ever produced. ONLY TEN of these were ZT 190+ http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-uk/263467.png Last edited by carguy143; 23rd September 2014 at 21:29.. |
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3rd January 2021, 15:37 | #18 | |
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Quote:
Im having issue bleeding coolant system after the thermostat change. In your point above where it mentions keeping the coolant tank cap off and topping up as required to keep the coolant level, level with the neck if the coolant tank. Having raised the tank, opened the bleed screw and a steady stream of coolant coming through the bleed screw and placing the bleed screw back etc. Lowering the expansion tank and topping up the tank so it's level with the bottom of the neck of the expansion tank, with cap off I find coolant just flows out constantly with the revs raised. (Do I need to keep the revs raised until the thermostat opens or should coolant stop flowing out if the top of the coolant tank after a few minutes or something?) I kept the tank cap off for around 10 mins and put the cap on. Thanks Rob |
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3rd January 2021, 17:06 | #19 | |
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Quote:
Perhaps your filling and bleeding was super efficient. I'd be inclined to view the actual coolant temperature when driving and check the expansion tank level when the engine has fully cooled. I'd expect it to have dropped. Simon
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4th January 2021, 09:15 | #20 |
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Oh fair enough in that case and yes the level began to rise pretty much as soon as the engine was started, the level rise and began to flow out of the expansion tank. It did drop a little over the course of a few days, not a lot just needed a little top up.
Thanks for confirming Rob |
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