Help please, Heater/thermostat problem

[Arctic]

Hi Rob.
How much and to where is the coolant in the header tank.

It should be like this below.
1

First make sure you can see the level step then top up as in the photo above.
2

[biffa75]

After initially bleeding the system the level was just a whisker above the "step" inside the tank marked "max". It was fine afterwards. It appeared okay until I checked the coolant level a few days later and didn't put the coolant cap back on fully and coolant flowed out without.me realising (had it ticking over on the driveway). So need to bleed it again as I can hear water trickling around the heater matrix and when raising the revs the heater gets hotter so I have an airlock.

Rob

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by biffa75

... so I have an airlock.

I'm glad that you've found a problem Rob. Yes, fill and bleed it again making sure that you follow the MG Rover procedure exactly!

Simon

[biffa75]

Just a quick update, just tried to bleed the system again. Coolant flowed from the bleed screw, tank refitted etc, started it up and it took a few minutes of holding the revs at near 2k rpm before the coolant level rose and began to flow out of the tank. Let it return to idle as I got out to go to the front of the car, level still overlfowing, cap refitted and continued to run at around 2k rpm till the temperature reached 100°c. Returned to idle speed until the temperature remained static (90°c). Allowed to cool for 30 mins. Level is above the "step inside the tank". Started back up allowed to run for a few mins. Heater is nice and hot however.. when increasing revs from tick over to around 1500rpm I can still hear water trickling. Not as much as before I don't think.
I haven't taken the car out for a drive as I can't as yet, need to replace the tyres and replace the aux belt idler pulley as it's rattling. I'm hoping that when Im able to take it for a drive I'm Hopi g the water trickling noise will stop and will help bleed any trapped air. Not sure what else I can do. No signs of any leaks or anything.

Is it normal to hear the water trickling sound behind the dash when increasing the revs?

Rob

[COLVERT]

Quote from SD1too---------( Simon. )

1. Apply Loctite 242 to first three threads of cylinder block drain plug. Tighten to 20 Nm.
2. Remove bleed screw from radiator bottom hose.
3. Remove bolt securing expansion tank and raise as high as possible (approx. 125 mm).
4. Fill cooling system keeping level at expansion tank neck until a steady stream of coolant is emitted from bleed screw hole. Fit and tighten bleed screw.
5. Continue to fill expansion tank until level reaches neck and remains static. Refit tank to body, tightening bolt to 5 Nm.
6. Press 'Econ' button to switch air conditioning off [this is to prevent the radiator fan from running continuously].
7. With expansion tank cap off run engine at 1,500 - 2,500 rpm, filling as necessary to keep coolant level just below expansion tank neck. When level starts to rise, fit cap.
8. Continue running engine at same speed until the radiator fan starts, then reduce to idle until it stops. [In practice this may not be achievable, in which case establish that the engine has reached above 90° by activating the IPK diagnostics.)
9. Allow the engine to cool for at least 30 minutes and top up the expansion tank no higher than the 'Max' marker. If this is not visible, remove coolant until it is. [In practice, topping-up will be necessary three or four times after a journey.]

You'll need at least 7.5 litres of coolant.

Simon
__________________

Happy new year SIMON.--

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by biffa75

Just a quick update, just tried to bleed the system again. Coolant flowed from the bleed screw, tank refitted etc, started it up and it took a few minutes of holding the revs at near 2k rpm before the coolant level rose and began to flow out of the tank. Let it return to idle as I got out to go to the front of the car, level still overlfowing, cap refitted and continued to run at around 2k rpm till the temperature reached 100°c. Returned to idle speed until the temperature remained static (90°c). Allowed to cool for 30 mins. Level is above the "step inside the tank". Started back up allowed to run for a few mins. Heater is nice and hot however.. when increasing revs from tick over to around 1500rpm I can still hear water trickling. Not as much as before I don't think.
I haven't taken the car out for a drive as I can't as yet, need to replace the tyres and replace the aux belt idler pulley as it's rattling. I'm hoping that when Im able to take it for a drive I'm Hopi g the water trickling noise will stop and will help bleed any trapped air. Not sure what else I can do. No signs of any leaks or anything.

Is it normal to hear the water trickling sound behind the dash when increasing the revs?

Rob

No----not normal.---

[biffa75]

At a bit of a loss.at.what to do next really. Getting a tad fed up if I'm honest. I'm debating whether to throw the front end up on ramps so the expansion tank is the highest point and try bleeding it that way.

[trikey]

If you can hear the water running through the matrix you have air in there, it will come out.. but its very stubborn sometimes.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by biffa75

I'm hoping that when I'm able to take it for a drive I'm hoping the water trickling noise will stop and will help bleed any trapped air.

I'm sure it will Rob. The level in the expansion tank should need topping up too.

Chill. Do your tyres and idler pulley work and come back to it then.

Simon.