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4th December 2017, 18:46 | #1 |
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Help, water pump replacement on a CDT
I dropped an 8mm spanner into the engine bay last night. To find it I removed the under tray and while looking around got a really stressed feeling. I think my water pump is leaking.
Has anyone changed a water pump on a diesel, how difficult is it and do I need any special tools? The Haynes manual talks about using a jack to access the water pump bolts. How much movement is required and where do I put the jack? The leak is at the rear of the engine, drivers side. "In line" with a pulley and a belt but a few inches in towards the engine. I cant tell what colour the liquid is. I did try to take some photos but they were no good. The Haynes manual does not mention anything about aligning "timing marks" but does talk about removing aux belt. Can I correctly take it that "timing" is not an issue, nothing needs to be aligned Could it be the thermostat, is this roughly in the same location? How log does it take to change a water pump..... I'll times that by 3 for my pace macafee2 |
4th December 2017, 19:47 | #2 |
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It is an easy job, but fiddly and time consuming the first time around.
Yes the engine mounts need to be removed and a jack under the engine used to lower and raise the engine to get to all the M6 bolts. A flexible 1/4 extension is a must. The thermostat, water pump and the all important 0-ring need to be replaced all at the same time-silly not to. No need to worry about timing but the belt and tensioner need to be tackled. Takes me about 3 hours in total but a Saturday with tea breaks will be fine.
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4th December 2017, 19:53 | #3 | |
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Quote:
I've changed quite a few of these....... my opinion on the failure chemical attack. Strangely enough, the compound of the o ring was altered a couple of years ago coincidence?????? Brian |
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4th December 2017, 20:19 | #4 |
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Brian,
thank you. Is the O ring shown on this Rimmers page as item N.I? https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID001740 macafee2 |
4th December 2017, 20:45 | #5 |
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Another common leak point is the thermostat housing seal. Time consuming job due to lack of access, but easy enough.
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4th December 2017, 20:49 | #6 |
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The trick is to use a small pair of Mole grips to release the spring clip on the lowest hose, then leave them attached to the clip while you do the job, its a right royal pain to access the spring clip if you release the tension on it.
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5th December 2017, 17:29 | #7 | |
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Quote:
macafee2 |
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5th December 2017, 19:49 | #8 |
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looking at this how To from Jules
https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...ad.php?t=54384 and looking at Rimmers web site https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001740 https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001722 even just changing this seal or housing gasket looks to be a big task. Haynes manual suggests a thermostat that has done 5 years may well be past its best. perhaps I should change pump, thermostat and gasket and the O ring so I only have this job to do once. macafee2 |
5th December 2017, 21:44 | #9 |
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I have also had to replace the 25 mm core plug behind the stat housing,I had already done the stat and water rail oring,before I noticed a pin hole trickle from the core plug
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5th December 2017, 21:49 | #10 | |
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Quote:
Depending on how many miles your car has done it may be better to stick with the original pump. It is easier to replace the thermostat, housing seal and O ring than to change the pump. If you are changing the water pump, the original gasket is a one piece for that side of the engine, and you will need to cut the little tabs that connect the water pump part to the rest before fitting the new gasket. |
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