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Old 1st February 2018, 08:47   #1
grout20
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Default V6 Petrol Rail leak... now CURED !!

Hi all

I spotted what looks like a weeping O ring on my fuel rail last night and took a quick photo (hopefully attached)

I've searched on here and have an idea on the fiddly technique to take apart the connector (I think it was an old Arctic thread... thanks!) but can I do the job without major disassembly of the car?

Has anyone done the same connector /area "in situ"?

I'm sure if this one has decided to weep then I need to check/consider doing others in the rail, but thought I'd ask your advice on just this one.

Haven't even removed the top cover yet.... just gathering advice, encouragement and courage!

Thanks in advance

John

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File Type: jpg V6 Petrol weep.jpg (131.9 KB, 143 views)
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Last edited by grout20; 13th February 2018 at 11:32.. Reason: Progress update
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Old 1st February 2018, 09:46   #2
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Hi John.
I can not see anything from the photo' except a light brown stain? lift the engine cover off and have a really good look, can you smell fuel? you may find it is one of the breather pipes if so then it is an easy replacement, take another closer look and report back to us cheers Arctic
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Old 1st February 2018, 13:24   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arctic View Post
Hi John.
I can not see anything from the photo' except a light brown stain? lift the engine cover off and have a really good look, can you smell fuel? you may find it is one of the breather pipes if so then it is an easy replacement, take another closer look and report back to us cheers Arctic

Hi and thanks

Yes I can smell and see a drip of petrol ... it is causing the dark black stain under and to the left of the light brown stain (rubbish picture I know! 😊 )

I'll take the cover off and have a good look. Would be good if it's a breather pipe... that sounds simpler than an O ring!

Will check and advise tomorrow

Thanks again
John
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Old 2nd February 2018, 07:21   #4
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O-rings are easy enough. Just get some decent Viton ones. They're available from a respected trader on a certain internet auction site, either complete sets or specific locations. Just don't be afraid to use a bit of brute force to make sure the new one is located correctly. It's not as fragile as you might think.
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Old 2nd February 2018, 15:26   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arctic View Post
Hi John..... take another closer look and report back to us cheers Arctic

Hi again

OK .... cover taken off, and turning the ignition on the dripping starts, I guess as the fuel pressure builds up. Turn on the engine and the drips increase. Yikes!

It looks like the drips originate from the joint between the silver (interconnecting) pipe and the black rail, where it all joins together with the angled clip thingy. See photos attached.

So ......to access that joint and renew the O rings on the interconnect pipe.... do I disconnect all the electric connections, carefully remove that angled clip thingy, undo the fuel feed pipe at the other end, and remove the whole rail ... bringing with it with the 3 complete injectors? (Terrible grammar but hope that makes sense! )

Or ....is there another way .... e.g can you just pull the disconnected fuel rail UPwards which disconnects the rail from the top of the injectors but leaves the rest behind?.

Or .... is there a fiendish way that you guys know about just to get at the interconnecting pipe O ring without more disassembling?

I'll renew all disturbed O rings.... but at this time don't want to remove / renew EVERY O ring in the whole system unless I have to. Probably a later job.... especially those on the "back" fuel rail !

And... finally.... presumably as long as the ignition is off, the fuel pressure will "disappear", in a fountain of fuel probably, when I undo the first O ring joint?

I've never removed injectors or fuel O rings so all advice welcome.

Thanks in advance !
John







Attached Images
File Type: jpg Petrol Rail leak.jpg (122.6 KB, 100 views)
File Type: jpg Petrol Rail leak close up.jpg (115.8 KB, 90 views)
File Type: jpg Petrol Rail leak close up2.jpg (133.2 KB, 91 views)
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My 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE Auto 75 is the
• 20,516th 75 to be made out of 112,381
• 787th 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE to be made out of 3,671
• 1,248th Wedgwood Blue Metallic (code: JBH) to be made out of 7,515 code JBH 75's
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Old 2nd February 2018, 15:30   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord of Hog View Post
O-rings are easy enough. Just get some decent Viton ones. .....
Thanks.

Yes, ordered some Viton ones for a couple of the suspected areas, but I don't think I've covered all areas now I've looked closer! (See previous post )

Kind regards

John
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My 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE Auto 75 is the
• 20,516th 75 to be made out of 112,381
• 787th 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE to be made out of 3,671
• 1,248th Wedgwood Blue Metallic (code: JBH) to be made out of 7,515 code JBH 75's
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Old 3rd February 2018, 09:31   #7
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Default Make sure

Make sure that the bottom of the metal clip is actually home properly when re assembling buddy

Chris
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Old 3rd February 2018, 09:44   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Astraeus View Post
Make sure that the bottom of the metal clip is actually home properly when re assembling buddy
Chris

Thanks Chris, thanks for the tip, sounds like you've been there!

It is possible to take apart that joint under the clip to replace the O ring without disturbing the rest of the rail/injectors, or is it best to remove the complete rail to get access?

Tia
John

.
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My 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE Auto 75 is the
• 20,516th 75 to be made out of 112,381
• 787th 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE to be made out of 3,671
• 1,248th Wedgwood Blue Metallic (code: JBH) to be made out of 7,515 code JBH 75's
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Old 4th February 2018, 13:47   #9
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Default

Hi all... any more tips re the interconnect pipe O ring replacement method.

Re earlier post, can I get at it without removing all the pipework, injectors etc?

Tia

John
__________________
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My 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE Auto 75 is the
• 20,516th 75 to be made out of 112,381
• 787th 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE to be made out of 3,671
• 1,248th Wedgwood Blue Metallic (code: JBH) to be made out of 7,515 code JBH 75's
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Old 4th February 2018, 15:43   #10
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by grout20 View Post
Re earlier post, can I get at it without removing all the pipework, injectors etc?
Looking at it https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001941

I doubt you'll separate the two rails without slackening the mounting bolts on the front one. Then lift it off the injectors so the left end can swing out. Having said that, I've never done it myself.

TC
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