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Old 2nd January 2021, 16:08   #31
Jamiewelch
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Originally Posted by TriumphStag View Post
So......

After a few failed attempts to get injectors, I finally got hold of some and fitted them, together with nice no "O" rings and copper washers, and some nice new gaskets/seals on the inlet manifold.......

and......

Still the bloomin' same! Stupid car.

It does seem * slightly * better - it still takes too long to start, but when idling, does not cut out. I also took it for a drive, and it didn't cut out when driving.
It does however seem quite rough for the first 30 seconds or so after starting (although it was rather cold today so I can forgive it for that).

So - any other ideas?

(I also seem to have broken my dash somehow as well - separate thread on that).
It shouldn't run rough regardless of weather. Try wiggle the connector on the end of the fuel rail, this plugs into the regulator on the rail. If it then starts performing properly give it a good clean.

What fuel pressures are you getting when running? Toaf should tell you the low pressure and high pressure readings.
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Old 4th January 2021, 21:38   #32
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Originally Posted by Jamiewelch View Post
It shouldn't run rough regardless of weather. Try wiggle the connector on the end of the fuel rail, this plugs into the regulator on the rail. If it then starts performing properly give it a good clean.

What fuel pressures are you getting when running? Toaf should tell you the low pressure and high pressure readings.
Thanks Jamie - I did look to see if I could read live data on TOAF, but couldn't see any way to do it? Any chance you could tell me how please?

Although, from my other thread, I need to figure out what is going on with the car first as I can't connect TOAF to anything at the moment. :-(
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Old 4th January 2021, 21:41   #33
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Originally Posted by inzer View Post
I had a similar problem when my fuel check valve(non return valve) broke. It's so small with the Pierburg sign. It is located under the battery.
Thanks, will have a look for it.


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Originally Posted by bl52krz View Post
Have you checked the wiring to the injectors? Get someone to try and start the engine while you wiggle the wiring to the injectors.
Yes, tried this, all the injector wiring is good, all the connectors are clean and solid as well.



It *is* better after changing the injectors - whereas before it was just turning over, turning over, turning over, fires up, now it turns over much faster as almost starts, almost starts, fires up.
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Old 5th January 2021, 08:05   #34
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Thanks Jamie - I did look to see if I could read live data on TOAF, but couldn't see any way to do it? Any chance you could tell me how please?

Although, from my other thread, I need to figure out what is going on with the car first as I can't connect TOAF to anything at the moment. :-(
To be honest, I don't really know TOAF. I have a T4 so have never had to try and figure it all out
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Old 18th January 2021, 23:23   #35
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Hi all,

Need some help with my 75 CDTi 2.0 manual please. It is a 54 plate facelift model.

The symptoms are that it takes a lot more cranking to start than I would expect. When starting, it will take 7-15 second of cranking before it fires up. Generally closer to 7 seconds if I have my foot all the way down to the floor whilst cranking.
Sometimes it will try to fire after a couple of seconds, fail to do so and then continue cranking.

The car will then idle fine for a period of time, but will suddenly cut out with no warning. There is no pattern to the length of time this will take.

Whilst driving, the car has plenty of power and is smooth. Occasionally it will "hiccup" for a second and then carry on.
If travelling slowly in a high gear, (so, say under 1500rpm) it will cut out and take up to 15 seconds of cranking to start again.
There is no noticeable smoke when running or accelerating.

This happens whether it the car is hot or cold.
Leaving the ignition on for 30 seconds before cranking makes no difference.
The battery is good and it cranks strongly.
The plenums are bone dry. No evidence of the ECU having a bath.

The camshaft and crank position sensors have been replaced with new ones. I have removed and cleaned both the EGR valve and inlet manifold - neither were particularly caked up. I tested that the EGR was working with a vac pump and it opens fine with a vacuum applied.

I have changed the PCV filter, as well as the air filter and oil and oil filter (not that I expected that to do anything).

I did an injector leakoff test. After 2 mins of cold running, I had the following:
Cylinder 1 - 12ml
Cylinder 2 - 13ml
Cylinder 3 - 8ml
Cylinder 4 - 13ml
(this included draining what was in the tubes into the catch bottles)

From what I have read, anything under 20ml for 2mins of running is good? Bit concerned why cylinder 3 is a lot lower than the others?

What next? I have run out of ideas? All help and advice appreciated.
Glow Plugs
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Old 19th January 2021, 08:20   #36
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Glow Plugs
No, this won't be the case either

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Old 15th April 2021, 18:59   #37
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Sorry all for the radio silence. Been a lot going on in life lately but happy to report all under control now, so time to get back onto this problem-mobile :-)

To make it a bit easier to explain, the car with the problem is my Red 75 - I ended up buying another 75 (Silver) back in January so have been running round in that for the last few months. Now I have some time to be rummaging around in engine bays, I have done a bit more testing.

I took the injectors out of the Silver 75 (which was running absolutely fine), and put them in the Red one, the problem remains, although it does start much quicker when it has just been running. I put the injectors out of the Red one in the Silver one - which was slightly rough at first but now continues to run just fine (I assume it took the ECU a short time to adjust).

So - that leads me to the conclusion it is not the injectors :-)


To summarise the problem again - it takes probably 5-10 seconds of cranking to get the engine to fire up. Once fired up, there is a nice big cloud of smoke for a couple of seconds (I assume the unburned fuel from all that cranking) and then it would run a little rough and cut out occasionally without warning - both when idling and also when driving.

Turning the engine off, and attempting to re-start immediately would also take 5-10 seconds of cranking.

I changed the injectors for a second hand set. The car still takes 5-10 seconds of cranking but "tries" harder. Best way I can describe it is:
Before: crank crank crank crank crank crank fire vroom
Now: Crank splutter faster crank splutter crank crank crank fire vroom

Turning the engine off after this and attempting to restart immediately would also take 5-10 seconds of cranking (including the splutter-cough attempts to start)

Swapping out the injectors with the Silver 75 results in the same behaviour - BUT when attempting to start immediately after turning the engine off it now starts after a second or two.

The Silver 75 always started fine after a second or two, and still does with the injectors out of the Red one.

The conclusions I draw from that are that the Injectors that were in the Red one originally were knackered, and that the second hand ones that I bought were much better. The ones from the Silver 75 were better again, but not much in it.

Per the thread, Cam and Crank sensors have been replaced, seals on the fuel pump regulator have been replaced and fuel filter housing replaced. Injectors have new rubber seals and copper washers, all inlet manifold gaskets have been replaced (plus EGR and inlet manifold cleaned out while it was off). There are no visible fuel leaks anywhere.
The fuel tank is over half full and the ITP hums away as expected when the ignition is on as does the HP pump down by the alternator....


It almost feels to me like the fuel is draining back to the tank and taking time to build up pressure again. I noticed a post about the check valve above. I will have a look at that tomorrow evening. In the meantime - any other ideas anyone?

Last edited by TriumphStag; 15th April 2021 at 19:03.. Reason: Speeeling mistooks
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Old 15th April 2021, 21:00   #38
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You say you cleaned the inlet manifold and egr, but you never mentioned the map sensor that is in the inlet manifold? Did you clean that ?
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Old 15th April 2021, 22:50   #39
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You say you cleaned the inlet manifold and egr, but you never mentioned the map sensor that is in the inlet manifold? Did you clean that ?
Yes, MAP sensor has also been cleaned. Also MAF sensor replaced (as I had a spare NOS one - also disconnecting it in case the NOS one was DOA made no difference).

I'm beginning to dislike the red car!
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Old 16th April 2021, 09:57   #40
Mike Noc
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You really need to look at the live data LP and HP fuel pressures with the engine running. If they both check out then it might be a case of carefully checking all the control wiiring and plugs. Has the ECM been swapped or tested if only to rule it out?
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