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Old 19th May 2020, 18:29   #1
ardvark
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Default Jacking Rail

Has anyone come across a Jacking Rail for our cars?
The one I'm on about is the Rail that fits under the sill that links the two jacking points on the off side or the near side.
I like the idea of a Rail that locates via the sill jacking point holes giving me the possibility of jacking the car up from anywhere along the sill and NOT denting the sill at the same time.
If one isn't about what thickness rectangular steel tube would be best for the job?
I could make one myself then. Although I wouldn't have it as a permanent fixture.
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Old 19th May 2020, 19:35   #2
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I'll be interested to see what responses you receive.

Unless somebody has actually done this, I would hazard a guess at a 3" box section, with 1/8" walls (75mm x 75mm x 3mm) and see if it flexes.

If it does, either keep the material for the future, and go up a size or two; or weld on some reinforcing angle iron.

Regards

Mike
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Old 19th May 2020, 19:52   #3
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The bodyshell is torsionally rigid enough to jack at one end of the sill, and have both ends lift together....I use an 18" long length of 4"x 2" with a section shaped to accept the cup of my axle stand.

By removing the jacking pad, and placing the jack under the timber with the shaped section directly below the jacking point, the car can be lifted then lowered directly onto the stand.

It doesn't damage the paint, misshape the sill, and provides a secure position to support the car.

The other advantage being it saves loads of hassle trying to reinvent the wheel

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Old 19th May 2020, 20:13   #4
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I just came back to my laptop to edit / add that axle stands should of course also be used, before any work is carried out.

Brian's reply covers this, together with a proven solution, that I suspect few would have thought off. I certainly wouldn't have done.

Regards

Mike
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Old 19th May 2020, 20:14   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marinabrian View Post
The bodyshell is torsionally rigid enough to jack at one end of the sill, and have both ends lift together....I use an 18" long length of 4"x 2" with a section shaped to accept the cup of my axle stand.

By removing the jacking pad, and placing the jack under the timber with the shaped section directly below the jacking point, the car can be lifted then lowered directly onto the stand.

It doesn't damage the paint, misshape the sill, and provides a secure position to support the car.

The other advantage being it saves loads of hassle trying to reinvent the wheel

Brian

I was going to ask, why remove the jacking pad, but I guess it’s so the 4x2 remains flush (along its 18” length) with the sill?


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Old 21st May 2020, 18:04   #6
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How about a length of 3x3 or 4x3 timber along the full length of the sill.
Jacking the car up from the centre of the timber. Would it flex enough to damage the sill?
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Old 24th May 2020, 13:39   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ardvark View Post
How about a length of 3x3 or 4x3 timber along the full length of the sill.
Jacking the car up from the centre of the timber. Would it flex enough to damage the sill?
You could find out by leaving the jacking pads on the car - then there'd be an air gap between the centre of the timber and the sill. Lift very slowly and see if the wood bends upwards.

Personally, I wouldn't trust it.
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Old 24th May 2020, 13:48   #8
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https://cjautosheywood.co.uk/product/2000kg-tilting-car-lift-cl03-2/

Hmm.
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Old 24th May 2020, 14:41   #9
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You could always use something like THIS


Lot's of useful stuff on that site

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Old 24th May 2020, 15:07   #10
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You could always use something like THIS
That's more like it - it definitely won't bend in the middle.

Good value too.
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